Is MDF OK to use in humid bathroom?

[teller2010]

Hello all,

I'm looking to make a simple hanging cabinet, and am considering using MDF. Will basic bathroom humidity be an issue (steam from shower/bath)?

Thanks,

Eric

[SARGE..g-47]

A solid wood would be better suited with the steam IMO, Eric. One that handles water better as white oak, cypress, etc. And that's not saying that MDF won't work. I have never used it under those circumstances, but for the price of MDF, you might give it a go....

Whatever you use, get 3 coats of poly or latex paint in semi or gloss on it as it needs to be sealed throughly to have a better chance of not over-dosing in steam vapors. ha.. ha..

Regards...

[RayintheUK]

Will basic bathroom humidity be an issue (steam from shower/bath)?

It won't if you use a brand-name moisture-resistant MDF, such as Medite, which is made for just such an application. It will still need careful finishing, but as it's a much better product than the usual DIY stuff, even that task is easier.

Warning: This material is so much nicer to work with than "ordinary" MDF that you will never want to go back!

Ray.

[offthemark]

I've used it a couple of times with two very different outcomes. One piece sat in a place where it actually got wet pretty often. The MDF swelled up and ... you get the idea.

The second was away from direct water. So far (more than a year) I've had no problems with humid air. Plus I live in Memphis where the normal air is 75% humidity anyway.

Make sure you coat everything with a coat of latex primer and latex paint (2 coats paint even better).

[Anna]

I'm just wondering, but is it really okay to use latex primer on MDF? I might have the wrong impression, but from what I've read, MDF absorbs water big time and that non-water based primers should be used. Any kind of paint can then be used on top of that.

Would love for water-based primers to be okay, though, because I hate the oil-based ones.

[RayintheUK]

The best-selling MDF primer in the UK is water-based, Anna. I don't do too much painting, but I have used it successfully, both on ordinary MDF and on water-resistant.

Ray.

[teller2010]

Excellent, thanks for the tips! As always, this is a great place for multiple opinions and ideas!

Eric

[Anna]

Thanks, Ray.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Warning: This material is so much nicer to work with than "ordinary" MDF that you will never want to go back!

Ray.

Isn't most of that stuff very expensive? I priced the MDO one time and couldn't believe the price.

[RayintheUK]

Isn't most of that stuff very expensive? I priced the MDO one time and couldn't believe the price.

Medex (the w.r. MDF) and MDO are totally different products, which are both more expensive than their everyday counterparts, I'd agree, Jeffrey.

However, because of its much denser core, Medex machines beautifully, takes an edge profile extremely well and has the added benefit of moisture-resistance. For me, that's worth paying extra for and it's only a small amount extra, over here.

I've yet to use MDO (I avoid ply where I can and have only seen MDO on NYW), but it seems that, for painted applications, it's also worth the extra.

You get what you pay for, I guess.

Ray.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Medex (the w.r. MDF) and MDO are totally different products, which are both more expensive than their everyday counterparts, I'd agree, Jeffrey.

However, because of its much denser core, Medex machines beautifully, takes an edge profile extremely well and has the added benefit of moisture-resistance. For me, that's worth paying extra for and it's only a small amount extra, over here.

I've yet to use MDO (I avoid ply where I can and have only seen MDO on NYW), but it seems that, for painted applications, it's also worth the extra.

You get what you pay for, I guess.

Ray.

Thanks Ray. I was not familiar with Medex. I had priced MDO and it was 3 x MDF and I just couldn't do it. If Medex is fractionally higher that it seems it would certainly be worth it.