New Table Saw Report

[mmeyerkopf]

I just wanted to let everyone here know that I am delighted with my new Craftsman 21829 (Ryobi BT 3100 +).

It is incredible. I have been using a small benchtop Craftsman that my father bought in 1939 with no Rip fence and questionable motor. Wow - what a difference.

Smooth, perfect cuts (completely square) - outstanding rip fence that cuts exactly the length you have selected.

I also have bought a Ryobi 10" Drill Press and 9" Bandsaw (that is all my workshop and wallet could manage.) I am very impressed with the heft of the Drill Press. Heavy gauged steel and beefy components. I grew up working with my Dad, he was Tool and Die Maker, and these tools bring back memories (now if I could only afford a Bridgeport milling machine.)

Anyway thanks for all the advice and quick responses to all me questions. I feel as if I will continue to need help as my tools bring me new confidence.

[nadz]

1939

a table saw from 1939?

can i see some pics please?

wow...

[nadz]

oops

hey, congrats on the new saw btw...

=]

-nadz

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family!

Welcome sackeri,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your 21829 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your 21829 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.
Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[cabinetman]

George

That was an extremely complete guide. Should be a sticky. If you have kids, I'd like to hear your discussion with them on the birds and bees.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Knottscott]

Congrats on the new goodies....have fun!