Getting Started

[mmeyerkopf]

I am just getting started with a more formal workshop in my garage. I am now a proud owner of a Sears 21289 (Ryobi BT3100) table saw (still in the box)

I am looking for advice on what to but next (I have about $400 to spend).

I have many of the basics: Jig Saw, Circular Saw, 9v Cordless and Corded Drill, Router, Power Planer, Brad Nailer/Air compressor, Shop Vac, 12" Miter Saw, Rotary Saw, Belt Sander, Orbital Sander and plenty of hand tools.

I am thinking next should be a Drill Press.

Should I consider something else for a hobbiest? Such as a Band Saw or a set of 18v cordless tools?

What would you invest in next?

Thanks in advance for your input.

[MilDoc]

It really depends on what you want to do. Plans?

[dsellinger]

Plans or not you are going to need clamps, a LOT of clamps.

[LarryG]

Paul is right -- your intended projects should dictate your tool purchases. But dsellinger is spot-on, too. If you don't already own a goodly assortment of clamps, you could easily burn up at least half of that $400 on these alone.

That said, a couple of the standard answers to your question are:

1. A drill press may seem like more of a "machine shop" tool than a "woodshop" tool, but virtually everyone finds they use them a lot more than they ever would have imagined. I use mine for something on virtually every project I do.

2. A band saw is an obvious necessity if you intend to resaw rough lumber baulks into smaller boards (but you'd also need a jointer and planer), or build a lot of projects with more curves than your jigsaw can handle. Less obvious is that a band saw can be used for some or all of the cuts required for various joinery methods. For some woodworkers, a band saw is even more important than a table saw.

So as regards the above, either a drill press or a band saw could be an excellent next purchase, depending.

Is your router a good one, with at least a 2HP motor, variable speed, and a 1/2 collet? And what about bits? The router is the most versatile tool in the shop; if yours is a basic model, especially with only a 1/4" collet, you might want to get a second one.

IMO the 18V tool set (or 14.4V or whatever) should be a low priority given what you already have, and provided you will do most of your work in a workshop with readily available wall outlets.

[sweensdv]

Two words,......Dust Collection.

[radhak]

buy wood

when you go over the plans and decide on something to make, and you go out to buy the wood - that's the time you realize you have already spent it all

frankly, for somebody 'just getting started', you have more tools that I would dare ask permission for . I envy you - mostly for the sizeable workshop you must be having.

and I can assure you that the 'sticker shock' I get every time i add up the cost of buying the wood (and hardware) for that modest bookshelf or curio cabinet, still surprises me. Not owning a jointer or a planer, I might be more at the mercy of HD/Lowes than many others, but that's neither here nor there. (and of course it does not help that the cut-off bin keeps growing, and I am never able to use the wood for the next project; at least, not too much).

but then, going over your list of tools I see you don't have a jointer still; you could go for one now, and cut your wood cost to a third

[Tom Hintz]

Oddly enough, my consultant fee forinsuring you spend all of your money is $400!

OK, it was worth a try....

I think everyone is right, probably from their own experience. I don't know anyone that bought the exact right thing at the exact right moment. There is always something lacking somewhere. I've been at this nearly 30 years and I could rattle off a list of must-haves for my shop right now. (I won't because the wife might hear....)
I think sitting down and deciding on the first few projects you want to build and then look around for what you don't have that will be needed to build them. If there is one thing common to all or most of the projects, that's your next purchase.
Soon after you will discover something else that would have been just as helpful. Get used to it.
Don't over look the clamps suggestion either. Now or forever more. (Clamps are still on my must-have list....)
Buy the best tools you can without dipping into the grocery budget (I promise that is not a good idea, we won't get into how I know) and save up when you don't think you have enough for something you need. Buying cheap just because its cheap costs way more money down the road.

Have fun, but be safe first!

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family

Welcome mmeyerkopf,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your 21289 (BT3100) Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your 21289 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[LinuxRandal]

Don't forget, if $400 is your budget, you might consider putting it or some back for a rainy day, when you come across a tool bargin (garage sale, craigslist, someone retiring, etc).
Other then that, when I started, I spent my budget, then had no money left for the wood.

[mmeyerkopf]

A Sincere Thank You

First off I would like to say how impressed I am at all the responses. I realized that after I sent the original message that I did not include what I intended to do first. Let me give you some background.

I was raised by a Tool & Die maker, my Dad, and worked with him from the time I was 10. I work in the computer field now which is not really as different as you might think.

I have been collecting tools for many years always using as an excuse (to my wife) that I was actually saving money by doing it myself.

Examples:

Recipricating Saw = Dismantle and trash the metal swing set ($350 estimate)
Power Planer = Hanging 15 new doors in the house (saving $130 per door)
Brad Nailer/Compressor = Help her Brother install quarter round in his house (no savings necessary)
Power Painter = Stain Fense ($3500 estimate)

You get the idea. Back to the key issue

I have a simple design for a set of bookcases that have some special characteristics that several people have ask me to build for them. I built the prototype for my wife with my Circular Saw and little else.

I got the Table Saw for my birthday (it was a big one - or so they say) and have a gift certificate for the $400 at Home Depot. I have squares and chisels and the like. I probably could use a better quality Router (only 1 HP) but I think I would like to get something I don't have and then replace my old tools as I feel more confident that this new side business/hobby is going to work.

Again thanks so much for all the responses. I look forward to participating in these forums more constructively as my workshop and skills improve.

I am considering a Drill Press, Band Saw or Lathe. (I know $400 won't get me much) Maybe a Band Saw would allow me to be more creative in terms of the side of the bookcases. I was thinking of the Drill Press because one of my ideas is to drill dowels holes and provide dowels for easy assembly.

By the way, my workshop is my garage (my poor car doesn't yet understand why it has to stay out side all night by itself)

[JR]

It sounds like a drill press would be a good idea for the reason you mention. It really is a mandatory tool, for nearly every project. I've got a small benchtop one, which has proven very handy. I'd prefer a floor-standing unit, but don't have the room.

A bandsaw can also be very useful, as has been pointed out. I went the route of a 14" with riser, which is the entry level for maximum verasatility. 90% of what I do could be handled by a smaller bandsaw, but the periodic need for tall resaw capacity is what the riser is for.

From your description it didn't sound like a bandsaw was absolutely required. If you don't have clamps then I'd suggest a good drill press and mess 'o clamps with your $400. Bandsaw next. Then the jointer and planer, which are sort of a combination set of tools required for milling rough lumber.

JR

[mmeyerkopf]

It sounds like a drill press would be a good idea for the reason you mention. It really is a mandatory tool, for nearly every project. I've got a small benchtop one, which has proven very handy. I'd prefer a floor-standing unit, but don't have the room.

A bandsaw can also be very useful, as has been pointed out. I went the route of a 14" with riser, which is the entry level for maximum verasatility. 90% of what I do could be handled by a smaller bandsaw, but the periodic need for tall resaw capacity is what the riser is for.

From your description it didn't sound like a bandsaw was absolutely required. If you don't have clamps then I'd suggest a good drill press and mess 'o clamps with your $400. Bandsaw next. Then the jointer and planer, which are sort of a combination set of tools required for milling rough lumber.

JR

Thanks, great advice

[mmeyerkopf]

Don't forget, if $400 is your budget, you might consider putting it or some back for a rainy day, when you come across a tool bargin (garage sale, craigslist, someone retiring, etc).
Other then that, when I started, I spent my budget, then had no money left for the wood.

It seems to be rainy every day.

[mmeyerkopf]

Welcome mmeyerkopf,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your 21289 (BT3100) Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your 21289 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/l...sp?ArticleId=7
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

Thanks for all the detail. I actually began reading the manual two weeks ago (my wife wouldn't let me open the box until after my Birthday).

I will print out this Post and use it wisely (so to speak)

[mmeyerkopf]

Oddly enough, my consultant fee forinsuring you spend all of your money is $400!

OK, it was worth a try....

I think everyone is right, probably from their own experience. I don't know anyone that bought the exact right thing at the exact right moment. There is always something lacking somewhere. I've been at this nearly 30 years and I could rattle off a list of must-haves for my shop right now. (I won't because the wife might hear....)
I think sitting down and deciding on the first few projects you want to build and then look around for what you don't have that will be needed to build them. If there is one thing common to all or most of the projects, that's your next purchase.
Soon after you will discover something else that would have been just as helpful. Get used to it.
Don't over look the clamps suggestion either. Now or forever more. (Clamps are still on my must-have list....)
Buy the best tools you can without dipping into the grocery budget (I promise that is not a good idea, we won't get into how I know) and save up when you don't think you have enough for something you need. Buying cheap just because its cheap costs way more money down the road.

Have fun, but be safe first!

$400 is cheap for good advice. Thanks I will be safe.