Grinding jigs, wheels, dressing sticks

[jseklund]

Ok, I know I'm not starting off right in woodworking. I've bought too many tools and don't even have any wood yet (hopefully today or tommorrow I'll place the first order and build my bench with it!). Oh well, this is a hobby for me, so I'm just letting it go where it takes me. Anyway, a side-hobby that has kind of creeped up on me is sharpening. I guess I don't get out enough, but it has caught my interest. It is one of those things that is simple in concept, but difficult in application. i.e.- the idea is simple, but it requires practice and skill to become good at.

Anyway, I was wondering- where do you buy your equipment, and what equipment do you like to use?

1. I am looking for some good aluminum oxide wheels, but not sure where to buy or what to spend, or what grits to get.

2., I am also looking into getting some grinding "jigs" for getting the angles right. What is your take on these? They seem like a nice idea, but I've read conflicting things. A lot of people who seem to be REALLY skilled at sharpening don't seem to like using jigs and claim you should practice learning how to create the angles by hand. The flip side, of course, is that the jig would be easier/quicker- especially for a beginner. So, do I go the purist route and view the jig as a crutch, or the beginner route and view it as a help? I'm thinking of splitting the difference- jig on the grinding wheel (used only for bevel grinding when necessary), and by hand on the stones. I may just do a home-made jig on the wheel too. But your opinions are helpful!

3. And finally, what do you use to "dress" your grinding wheels, and where do you buy the items?

Thanks in advance for the help! I do appreciate it.

[jl]

You may like to start with buying Leonard Lee's book: The Complete guide to sharpening (Taunton Press). In my opinion it is an excellent book, packed with good information.

Lee Valley is a good place to shop. Pricey, but the quality is there.

Jigs or by hand? Whatever gets results for you. I use jigs for most of my sharpening (most shop made). Some wood turning tools I grind free hand. What count is the end result.

To dress the wheels I have a diamond dresser.

A couple of years ago I started using sand paper (Scary sharp method) with good results. Today I have a 2-speed 8" grinder, the Veritas MK II honing guide and three water stones (220 and 1000-4000). I believe my tools a sharper now.

I hope this help. I'm sure many will add their comments.

[Tom Slick]

for grinding wheels a dressing equipment I recommend an industrial supply such as;
www.mcmaster.com
www.mscdirect.com
www.jlindustrial.com
www.enco.com

I don't recommend a grinder for sharpening though. A 1" best sander works really well. it will grind a flat angle on the blade. most tools aren't supposed to have a "hollow grind" that a typical grinder will make.

for jigs I think your best bet is to buy a sharpening system like a tormek.

[cabinetman]

I agree with Jean-Luc. Read the book and get a good overview of the process. Sharpening tools is a part of shop maintenance that most don't dedicate a time for. In my case it's usually when I need one or two chisels, and I take the time for that. It's at a time when I really didn't want to spend any time doing it. It could be one of those rainy days things to do. Or when your head isn't into anything else. I knew a guy who couldn't make it as a cabinetmaker, but he sure could sharpen tools. He would go around to the shops and pick up and deliver, and I mean to tell you it was a treat. At first I let him do it because I didn't have the time. But they would come back incredibly sharp and maintaining their temper.

My definition of "scary sharp" is when a chisel is not that sharp and it has to be forced too hard to do anything. That is when a tool is not safe. My pocket knives, chisels, turning tools, and plane irons aren't used until they are really sharp. I do the sharpening myself now. The rolling jig works good for me, as it holds an exact angle throughout. I use mostly wet-or-dry silicon carbide sandpaper, on glass, with water. For grits I don't usually go below 120 for really bad edges, up to 1200 . For some knives maybe 1500-2000, but it's rare. If maintained properly, less sharpening is needed, and you continue to improve your skill.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[jseklund]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

JL- Don't think I don't have my eye on that book! haha. I've been scouring the net, and I KNOW I am going to wind up with a copy of that book on my shelf. You may have just driven the final nail into the coffin.....

I am also going to go buy a diamond dresser today.

TOM- Those sites are great. Thanks, that's jut what I needed. I am not planning on using the grinder to actually sharpen so much I don't think. I have a set of 6" diamond stones on their way. I found a place selling the DMT continuous diamond stones for about $21 each shipped- so I got the course, fine, and extra fine stones. I am going to use the wheel mostly for just taking off rough edges, and grinding new bevels when they get out of whack. The actual finish sharpening I am going to do on the stones. I think I may have underestimated the sandpaper method though...


Cabinetman- I couldn't agree more. I used to work at a sandwich shop in high school and I quickly learned that the way you get hurt with a knife is by forcing a dull blade to do something it shouldn't be. Most people are afraid of sharp edges- they don't realize that sharp is safe, dull is dangerous. I don't want to be trying to force a 2-3" long chisel through a piece of wood. I'll probably not only ruin my work, but ruin my leg or hands too. And another vote for the book should really do me in. Thanks.

It seems that a lot of people here are a fan of using sand paper or the "scary sharp" method. I went with diamond stones because they seemed to be not too expensive, and my thinking was the sand paper was for reducing costs up front. Maybe I underestimated this method....