Shark Guard

[mackmack]

I have read so many rave reviews and opinions regarding the shark guard on here, so I was hoping one of you guys might be able to answer some questions about it.

For one, is it difficult to install and do you need any special tools? Second, I notice it has an exhaust hole on the top... That would come in very handy for me as I am planning on cutting a lot of MDF in the near future and would like to minimize particles as much as possible.

To that affect, is there a way to take my standard shop vac that I am using right now and branch it off so that I am able to have a hose going to both the bt3100's built in exhaust port as well as the to the top of the shark guard?

That's pretty much all I wanted to know regarding the device before I go ahead and make a purchase. Thanks for any help!

[havighurst]

I have one and it was very easy to install. You just remove the throat plate, loosen the bolts holding the riving knife and remove the stock one and replace it with the new one. The blade guard then slips on two bolts. I use a shop vac for the guard dust port and my HF DC for the BT so I can't speak to using a Y connection for the shop vac alone.

[eezlock]

sharkguard

The sharkguard is the best safety device you can get for your tablesaw !
After removing the throat plate on your Bt3 saw...loosen two 9/16" hexnuts
where the original bladeguard/splitter is mounted and replace the sharkguard
in the same mount, adjust it to proper clearance away from the saw blade,
tighten the hexnuts securely, check to see if your clearance is sufficient
to the blade, re-install throat plate and slip the guard over the mounting pins
and you are ready to start cutting.

As for the dust port, buy a "Y" type fitting and a short length of 2 1/2"
hose and connect it together and then you are ready to go!

hope this helps.....eezlock

[gjbivin]

I wouldn't want to be without mine. What I like about it is how easily you can remove the guard to measure setups and make adjustments. For non-through cuts, you just loosten two knobs and the mounting blocks at the top come off the splitter. You don't need to take off the throat plate and unbolt the splitter as with the original guard (the top of the splitter is designed to be slightly below the top of the blade).

[DonHo]

I have a sharkguard with pretty much the same set up as you describe(except I'm using a GMC portable DC instead of a shop vac). The sharkguard is very easy to install and one of it's strong points is you can remove the guard without removing the riving knife for non thru cuts (except when using a dado blade), the easy on off of the gurard means you are more likely to use it. I'm very happy with the dust collection with this setup, it won't catch all the dust but it gets a large percentage of it.
DonHo

[drumpriest]

Yep, Shark is as easy to install as the regular guard and splitter, but easier to remove for non-through cuts. No special tools required.

I have a feed from my DC split for above and below. I don't know if you'll get enough draw with a shop vac to justify doing this though.

[dbray]

These forums are expensive

Everytime I come here I end spending. After reading your posts I ordered a shark guard and anti kick back pawls from T-nut.com. Oh ya the reason I used them was I ordered 3 ZCTI's also. Last week I was reading about wide table kits, I ordered a set from Ordertree.com. You would never know that my BT3000 is 8+ years old by the way I keep upgrading it. (still works great)

Regards, Daryl

[steve-norrell]

Brand new shark guard

MackMack:

I just got my shark guard this week. It took about 10 minutes to install. The riving knife part installs almost the same way as the Ryobi blade guard and the plastic cover simply slips over the riving knife and the bushings on the apparatus that holds the guard itself. I did not order the prawls.

I am using a commercial (20 gal., 6.5 hp) shop vac that is connected to both the shark guard and the dust outlet the back of the saw with a "Y" fitting and some 2 1/2 inch hose. Works pretty well and does capture a lot more of the dust. To maximize dust collection, I only use the vac on one tool at a time so I have to change hoses around when I use a CMS, for example. There are several photos of shops that use shop-vac on the Shark Guard web page (You might have to navigate around a little.)

On a slightly different topic, the shark guard will not trap ALL of the dust and you might want to consider using some kind of a respirator, especially if you tend toward allergies and may be sensitive to wood dust and the chemicals that are used in making MDF. I had to get one and would not be without it.

All in all, the shark guard is a great addition to your saw. It will capture a lot more of the saw dust, but you should not expect it to capture all of it.

Good luck.

[Stytooner]

Thanks Guys.
Steve is right.
This will not collect all the dust. I don't think there is a way to do that on a tablesaw. It throws some chips out when you are cleaning up an edge or right at the end of a cut. I imagine that all dust guards and covers have the same problem.
It does collect the fines pretty well though.
These are obviously the worst offenders healthwise. I have had good results with the 2.5" port wyed with a dust collector. My little trick is to use a blast gate between the upper and lower ports. I close off the lower port some, which forces more of the suction to come through the shark port. It acts kinda like a regulator. The BT's do so well at spitting out dust bellow, that extreme force isn't needed to get most dust into the airstream.
Most guys say that the shark provides good to great dust collection. The 4" port is new and has yet to be reviewed publically that I am aware of other than my findings.
Everyone's saws are different as are materials being cut and techniques. Dust collectors and shop vacs also vary a lot in the amount of CFM they produce, which is also dependant on the filter and collection status.
I hate to disagree with owner's that state their result's, so I'll just say that the Shark Guard works good to great depending...

[drumpriest]

Lee, there is an inherant problem with collection from above with a guard. Unless you have some sort of gasket you can't fully enclose the cutting area, so some dust is bound to blow out of the sides, front, and back during your cut. Any gasket would probably be a hazard, so I agree that it might be nearly impossible to accomplish this feat. Perhaps with a large enough DC, it would be negligible.

Mine works nicely, and thanks for your blast gate idea. It leads me to a question, which might well be embraced within this topic. I still have only the 2.5" port on my BT, and the shark. Would it be better to split my 4" and run 2 2.5" lines? Or run a 4" to the back of the saw and convert last minute?

Thoughts anyone?

[wardprobst]

Best aftermarket accessory I've bought!
Shark Lover,
DP

[Stytooner]

Keith, that is exactly what I do. I have a 4" line plugged into the back of the saw. Works well since the BT's throw the sawdust out the port there anyway.
Thanks Ward.

[greencat]

I know this has been said many times - I just got the shark and the only thing I regret is that I didn't get it sooner. I like the simple design and how it can be removed without tools. I find it easier to measure with it off compared to lifing up the old guard. Plus my wife thinks it's cute even when she does not understand why I need so many tools.

[Roger on the Rock]

I was considering getting one, but putting it off for no really good reason. After reading this thread...just ordered one!! Thanks to all for the good advice and frank opinions.

[drumpriest]

I've been toying with the idea of a cabinet saw, not going to happen very soon, and I love my bt. If I were to get a cabinet saw, the one I'd pick is the Powermatic PM-2000. Why? Riving knife, and a shark upgrade available. After playing with a fair number of table saws, I'd say that the shark is one of the best guard systems out there.

Thanks again Lee.