Building cabinets bass-ackwards :-)

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • venkatbo
    Established Member
    • Jan 2006
    • 243
    • Cupertino, CA, USA.

    #1

    Building cabinets bass-ackwards :-)

    Hi folks,

    Recently I came into the possession of 20 maple-front natural colored used kitchen drawers with good blum guides. So looks like I can reuse all with some sanding, staining, re-sealing etc.

    So, I'm thinking of building the cabinet box shell that can accept these drawers. Is it possible/meaningful to build the box after the drawers without measurement erros/problems ? If possible, how should I calculate the dimensions of the box (inner/outer) to avoid errors.

    I've built just one cabinet so far as a seperate project - the proper way - box first, then adjusted the drawer dimension to fit the box inside. Not sure if doing it the other way around is doable properly.

    Thanks,
    /venkat
  • Tom Miller
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2003
    • 2507
    • Twin Cities, MN
    • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

    #2
    Are the drawer fronts the type that overlap the face frame? Do you have all the slide hardware (i.e. both the part that attaches to the drawer, and the part that attaches to the FF?

    If yes to both, it seems like it should be pretty straight-forward, bass-ackward project, as critical fitting parts of the case can be shimmed.

    If no to either or both, it gets a little harder.

    Regards,
    Tom

    Comment

    • venkatbo
      Established Member
      • Jan 2006
      • 243
      • Cupertino, CA, USA.

      #3
      ...luckily have all the guide-parts.
      Thanks Tom.

      /venkat

      Comment

      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #4
        Working backwards is done all the time. As in designing cabinetry to hold A/V equipment, you're starting with the sizes of the equipment and then figuring out how big to make the openings.

        As far as your drawers go, if they have a front that sits on the face frame or whether they will be inset to the cabinet matters. As for the interior dimensions, depending on "which" slide you have, there is side allowances for the hardware. For example some full extension slides call for 1/2" plus 1/32" each side, which can be shimmed. This allows for problematic drawer sizes or some out of square condition. If your slides aren't aligned to the cabinet front the same your movement will be out, or the drawer front won't seat evenly. Allow for depth in the cabinet for differential in the slide length and drawer length. Some slides are not as long as the drawer. Or the drawer might be an in-between length.



        "I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

        Comment

        • davidtu
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2006
          • 708
          • Seattle, WA
          • BT3100

          #5
          newbie here...

          what do you guys mean by "shimmed" in this context? what are you shimming and what are you shimming with and how is it attached?
          Never met a bargain I didn't like.

          Comment

          • scorrpio
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2005
            • 1566
            • Wayne, NJ, USA.

            #6
            Shimming the slides against cabinet walls in order to get proper fit. Shims can be made from anything, depending on needed thickness. From a couple layers of masking tape to a strip of hardwood.

            If you want to have drawyers inset into the frame, your tolerances get quite low. I would suggest a story stick - mark the drawers on it first and mark everything else in reference. Then, cut your parts by the stick. Should get a snug fit. Might wanna leave a wee bit extra material on, and sand/plane/rout it away for final fit.

            Comment

            Working...