baseboard moulding

[wrogers509]

Hope this isn't a silly question, but I'm stumped. Helping the SIL finish his renovation. All that's left to do is the moulding. The baseboard he bought is 7 inches tall. I've installed baseboard before but its only been around 4 inches tall. How do I make cuts in the 7 inch stuff that won't fit in my 10 inch miter saw.

Is it time for a bigger saw?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Wayne

[RayintheUK]

Lay it flat and bevel cut it - tilt the saw blade sideways.

Ray.

[wrogers509]

Ray Thanks for the reply.

My saws capacity is 5.5 inches. That gets me 5.5 inches through the 7 inch moulding. I guess I would hand cut the rest.

[RayintheUK]

Sorry about that - I thought that you had a 10" capacity (front to back) from your post and were having trouble trying to cut it vertically.

You could finish the cut by hand. If you've got a hand plane, you could swiftly set up a shooting board, finisd the cut a little strong, then plane it flush.

As for "bigger saw?" - definitely (surprised you needed to ask!)

Ray.

[WayneJ]

Do it on your table saw.. Tilt the blade to 45 deg and miter cut it.Have someone support the other end
Wayne

[jAngiel]

Easiest would be to use corner blocks and just do a straight cut with a circular saw, no bevels needed. If you have a long wall, put a decorative block in the middle. The blocks are simple enough to make yourself, no need to purchase.

[cabinetman]

Wayne

When I was young like you and broke, and didn't have a RAS, I simply made a crosscut jig for a circular saw. It's a lot like the attachment, except for it dedicated to a circular saw, not a router. Oh, the one pictured does real fast easy setups for routing dadoes. The difference being that for the saw, the first pass will cut off the right leg of the jig to exactly where the blade starts cutting. You could even make the pass at 45 deg if you want. Heck, they are easy to make. With that, put your mark on the moulding and simply run the saw over it. BTW, you may not need to use the clamp if you can get a good grip with your free hand. This jig is for a right hander (that could be you). I forgot to add that the long part of the "T" doesn't have to be split for the clamp, that is your disgression. The one pictured will accomodate a four foot dadoe.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[wrogers509]

Cabinetman

Thanks!!! I think that will work just fine.

[scorrpio]

And for those too lazy to build a jig - a speed square makes for an excellent circ. saw guide... After I bought mine (12") I learned why it's called 'speed square' firsthand.

[JimD]

I have not done this yet but I've seen pictures of people using little portable stationary sanders to clean up and fine tune moulding cuts. If you have one, you may want to consider. My cuts with circular saws are not as nice as on my CMS. A block plane will do the same thing, especially if you take a few minutes to make a shooting board for it (I have done this).

Jim