Resawing

[Thom2]

I'm going to throw in my 2 cents (not that I can spare that much, but I'll squander).

If I had to start my shop over knowing what I know now, a Bandsaw would be one of the very first purchases I'd make. I put off my purchase of a Bandsaw for a long time because I didn't feel that I could justify the expense for what I'd use it for. Well I found out in a hurry that I should have bought one a LOT sooner, I use my Bandsaw more than any other saw in the shop and I do very little resawing to speak of.

The BS is:

1.) quiet
2.) probably the safest saw you can own
3.) capable of cutting curves
4.) capable of resawing
5.) accurate enough rips for a lot more than you'd think

I ask the group to back me up on this, but my personal opinion is that you should seriously consider making this major purchase a lot sooner than you think, you'll thank yourself for it.

[bigsteel15]

I'll second Thom2.
I do own a bandsaw, but a small one (10" Delta).
I haven't done any resaw yet, but this one is supposed to have 7" capacity. That I'll believe after I try it.
I have however used it to cut circles and small items that I felt safer with the BS than trying not to nick a finger on the TS.
I'm already wishing I had held out for a heavier/bigger unit though.
Maybe Santa will have to come early.

[MBG]

I have resawn on the BT. Like others above I wasn't comfortable with the cut. Plus since you don't cut all the way through you still need to remove the kerf that wasn't cut.

I have also resawn with my HFBS with a 3/4" width blade. It is slow and at times frustrating. I resaw if I need to bookmatch or require an odd size of solid lumber - like 1/4" or 3/8" thick. For 3/4" finished thickness I also would recommend buying rough sawn 4/4 and mill it down to 3/4".

Mike

[ChrisL]

I just burned my motor out resawing 50 year old white oak stair treads. I've resawed a lot. Generally, the more the strain on the motor, the more you should think about if you want to do this. It cost me big today, just to try to get some 1/2 boards. I think I might turn my 3000 into a big board machine only, and get a 3100 for all the other stuff.

[NJFrank]

I'll 3rd Thom2's Post

I have a Ridgid bandsaw and look forward to using it. Have done some light resawing on it and it's great for my needs, though I can see an 18" Bandsaw in the future.

I wouldn't resaw on a table saw, the dangers have been covered by others already.

Plus with the bandsaw you can do curves, and other small things you couldn't think of with any other tool. For instance today I needed to cut some small angled pieces, and some bevels on a thin long board for a threshold. both were easy and relatively safe to do on the bandsaw.

Be Safe, best regards

[cabinetman]

I guess I'll join in also. Personally I have tried every dangerous stupid act one could pull off on a TS. I have been very lucky. See, that's kind of past tense. My dangerous procedures were performed because I was in too much of a rush, or didn't want to take the time for a "set-up".

In resawing on a TS, the blade is in an upward push, trying to force the stock to lift. In addition to that, the blade isn't exposed, therefore, it doesn't get "cleared" of cut debris. Whereas, the BS is always cutting - forcing the stock down against the table.

I would like to make a huge point here. What will provide the most control and accuracy is an adequate or more than adequate infeed and outfeed support for both the TS and the BS. I have made portable setups with smooth tops (not rollers) that can be set up in minutes. For the TS, it's a real easy smooth infeed, where all you have to concentrate on is the fence. For outfeed, you don't have the problem of pushing down on long stock.

For the BS, it's even more important for long infeed and outfeed. And finally, (hope I'm not puttin anyone to sleep) is to make high enough fences for lateral support. Making and using featherboards helps a lot. The least amount of things you have to control the better.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"