Workbench questions

[GeekMom]

Forgive me if these questions seems too obvious.

I'm in the planning stages to build a mobile workbench, about 30" x 72". Height is still to be determined - can't use it for outfeed/infeed support for my saw because saw table height is 40"-43" (Shopsmith). Storage and a good work surface are immediate needs.

I've read about using a solid core door for a workbench top. Would I need/want to put another surface on it other than a hardboard sacrificial surface?

I'd like to eventually add vises, but can't afford to do that yet. Can they be added to a finished bench easily?

Since the cabinet base needs to be mobile, I'm assuming that I should have something sturdy underneath to keep it flat. Is a torsion box necessary? If so, is there any reason that I couldn't/shouldn't use another solid core door for the base? Seems like it would be very sturdy, and the casters would attach to the door easily. (Plus, the door is $35 vs. MDF @ $22/sheet.)

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[newbie2wood]

"I've read about using a solid core door for a workbench top. Would I need/want to put another surface on it other than a hardboard sacrificial surface?"

Another surface is not really necessary unless you want to increase the thickness or change the look (like adding a laminate).


"I'd like to eventually add vises, but can't afford to do that yet. Can they be added to a finished bench easily?"

It depends. A vise can be added if you have room at the bottom of the table top. A woodworking vise is usually mounted on the bottom. Check out the vise from Grizzly. Its quite affordable.


"Since the cabinet base needs to be mobile, I'm assuming that I should have something sturdy underneath to keep it flat. Is a torsion box necessary? If so, is there any reason that I couldn't/shouldn't use another solid core door for the base?"

A torsion box is a good idea if you are going to put a lot of weight on it and want the table to be dead flat. A solid core door is basically a flat piece of lumber and will flex somewhat. You can certainly build a very good workbench consisting of a top and 4 legs.
________
GLASS BONG

[Tom Miller]

A solid core door is a popular "instant" workbench top. I think it might be a little on the thin side, by itself, for attaching vises to. But you can laminate more material on the underside (just where the vice attaches) to compensate for that.

Vices can be added later, but you definitely need to plan for them now. For example, you may want to plan for enough tabletop overhang on the end to clear the vice hardware. You may also want to plan for the rear face of the vice to be flush with the front edge of the bench top.

My workbench is also 30" x 72", with a cabinet and drawers underneath, much like you're planning. It is heavy! I wouldn't consider casters rated at anything less than 300# each, and probably more like 500#. I also wouldn't want to use the bench while it's resting on the casters, no matter how well they lock. It just wouldn't be as rock solid as I like, since all casters have some amount of play in them.

If the base is a well-constructed cabinet carcase, it may resist racking enough on its own. It's really only a concern while moving. I think a torsion box would be unnecessary.

Regards,
Tom

[vaking]

Karen,
Can you please define a little better a concept of mobile workbench. I don't think you mean to build 30x72 portable like B&D folding table. There are configurations that don't use a torsion box but use casters in combination with manually-adjustable levelers. That means you can move that bench into position and adjust height and level for this location. You will be able to move the bench sometimes but not every day.
I would not use solid core anything for a bottom. A frame of several 2x4 with cross-braces will cost and weigh less than that and will give you better footing.

[bigsteel15]

Karen,
Here is a recent picture of my bench that utilizes a solid core door for the top and roughly the plans from a workshop book that I can't remember the name of right now.
Please ignore the mess. I am a man after all.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=21435

OH! Definitely plan ahead for your vise. I thought I did, but only planned for a 7".
I added 5/8" thick particle board to my door wherever I knew I would be lag bolting something to it, like the base and the vise.

[JR]

Here is a recent picture of my bench that utilizes a solid core door for the top

Brian, can you comment on the effectiveness of the casters in your setup? Like Tom, I'd feel a little hinky about having that design, but if it works for you I'm sure Karen would like to hear about it.

JR

[GeekMom]

Thanks for all the good information! And fast! Looks like I need to add thickness underneath the top and leave enough overhang so the vise can be installed. The Grizzly looks like a good price, but right now I'm trying to scrape the $ together to just buy the lumber. Since a torsion box is not necessary, I'll make a good, sturdy cabinet base and go from there.

I understand that the wheels will not make the bench stable enough for working, so I thought I would try Tom's cabinet levelers. The base will have drawers and shelves and will, at least for now, get the tools and attachments off the floor. Right now they're in 4 cardboard boxes under a folding table. Can't find anything!! I'm planning to use 6 casters so that the load, while moving, will be distributed a little more evenly. No, I will probably not move it every day, but to make it useful it has to come out from under the existing wall shelves once in a while.

[cwsmith]

This is probably nothing like you are looking for, but I thought I would throw it in for whatever it might be worth to somebody.

In my current home my basement is a disaster. Too shallow to stand, unless I put my head between the floor joists and it is too often damp. So, all my building takes place in the better weather months and my work area is my deck.

While nice to work outdoors, the big challenge is portability. So, I have four of those little Stanley folding tables. Cheap ($27), sturdy (about 300 lbs), and portable (they can be set up and taken down with one hand). Nice part too, is the two adjustable vises that come with each table (great for holding boards on edge, sanding, etc. They're not too big, and very portable and I find myself using them in any room where I work. Keeps me from laying tools, paint cans, whatever on sinks and countertops. (LOML doesn't like that!)

But my assembly or primary work surface is made of some oak flooring that was spilled by the highway and left. I salvaged enough pieces to make two sections, each is approx. 72 x 14 inches. Using two folding saw horses, a table top can be set up quickly. Because it's white oak, it's quite stiff and provides a sturdy surface.

I could have glued it all together to make one solid piece, but it would be a bit heavy and a bit wide to easily carry through doorways or transport in the van. With two sections, I have the option of putting the two pieces together (T & G) for a solid top, or if I want more width, I can use them separately, leaving the middle open. I've also found the sections handy for a work platform when painting the ceiling... just provide three sturdy supports for each length.

The portability is great and it only takes me a few minutes to set-up or tear-down. Works great for supporting sheet stock while I cut it with the circular saw and it is ideal for both assembly and finishing projects.

CWS

[bigsteel15]

Brian, can you comment on the effectiveness of the casters in your setup? Like Tom, I'd feel a little hinky about having that design, but if it works for you I'm sure Karen would like to hear about it.

JR

I have 4", 250# locking swivel casters under mine.
I usually just lock the front 2, especially with the cabinet in their now.
When I was making the cabinet ontop of the bench I locked all 4.

The dimensions of my base, BTW, are 20" deep x 54" long. It is made of 3" x 3" southern yellow pine that I got for free.
The bottom stretchers are 2x4 planed flat, cut a 1/2" groove in each and fit a 1/2" rod between them and then screwed the heck out of them. I used the LV torsion rod nuts on the ends.
I'll let you know the book I used the plans from tonight if I remember.

[eezlock]

work table/bench

Karen,
I don't agree with the other post about using a solid core door as a top.
I have one that is very solid...almost 2" thick 5' long and 32'' deep (front to back). I wanted to make it easy to move if needed also. I took a 2"x4"x 4'
piece of lumber and attached to one side down the middle of the top and
opened up my B&D workmate table dropped the 2"x4" in the open clamp
and tightened the jaw clamps and went to work!
Ity makes a very stable, tough hard workbench that can be altered later on as needed. Think about it...and give it a try you might like it...my $.02
worth. eezlock

[russd]

Maybe something on this page.

http://store.woodstore.net/workbenches.html

Like this

http://store.woodstore.net/dropwor.html

Hope this helps