several more kitchen cabinet related questions

[xli1]

I have already asked several questions before. Thanks all for the useful information. Here are some more:

1. I have PC690LRVS router mounted on a router table. I have tried to use this for raised panel (cove profile). It worked but you have to pass 8 to 10 times in order to cut the profile. This is kind of time consuming. I come up an idea that I can use Table Saw to remove most of the material before I can use router. The problem is that I have to use high vertical fence. I have measured the bevel angle to be about 18 degree, just need to raise up the featherboard to hold the board against the fence. I have not tried this yet, I don't know if anybody in this forum have ever tried this before, or any advice on this.

2. What is the best way of join face frame to the carcass. I am thinking of cutting groove on face frame, then use glue. But I am not sure about how strong this will be, do I need to use biscuits to enhance it or like some people just staple, which I don't preferred.

3. Since I am using Cherry to make the raised panel door and face frame, I would like to know what kind of finish is the best. I am currently prefer the dark stain like most of the cherry cabinet displayed in the homedepot, but not decided. I was also thinking of keeping its natural color and only apply polyurethane, but seems like a little bit wired (just my 2 cents). I would like some advice on this and also what brand and kind of stain to use for the best results.

4. As to the plywood used to make carcass, I noticed that most of the cabinets in homedepot use 3/8" thick plywood, this is not carried in either Homedepot or Lowes store. I think I will have to use 1/2" plywood. The price for cabinet grade plywood in both homedepot and lowes is kind of high, anybody know alternative source that has decent price? BTW, I am living in big Boston area.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice!

[os1kne]

I'm in the middle of my first kitchen remodel. I'll post my opinion/experience, but I'm sure that others that are more qualified will respond.

1. Yes, you can use a table saw to knock off the majority of the material for the doors/drawer fronts. You will probably want to practice with some scrap material and see how close you can get with the TS before routing the profile. You may still need to do multiple passes with the router, but probably only 2-3 passes.

2. Biscuits are probably the best way. Pocket screws also work well for non-exposed sides.

3. I'll defer to others that know much more about finishing.

4. I would use at least 5/8" plywood for the cabinet carcasses, shelves (unless wide) and drawers need not be so heavy . I used 3/4" ply for the carcasses on the cabinets that I built, but in retrospect I think it was a little bit of overkill. HD and Lowe's have a very limited plywood selection, check out some local lumber yards.

Good luck!

[drumpriest]

1. What Bill said.

2. What Bill said.

3. The problem here is that most "cherry" furniture isn't Cherry. It's made form Maple or Birch usually and stained to look like 100 year old Cherry. Cherry darkens over time and UV light exposure. If you stain Cherry, it will still darken over time. So in a few years it won't look like what you originally wanted. I personally just use Arm-R-Seal on my Cherry projects, and let nature take it's course.

4. The best price on cabinet grade ply is the 3/4" stuff from HD or Lowes, but it isn't Cherry veneered. You have a couple of options here. You can get actual Cherry veneered ply, usually around 100-150$ a sheet. You can get Birch or Oak veneered and stain the ply. Or you can get the birch veneered (it's cheaper), and apply a veneer to it. The third one is probably the best cost/look way to go.

[Ken Massingale]

My 2c worth:
1. Cove cuts are easier and much safer on the tablesaw by running the stock over the blade face down, at an angle. Start with the blade 1/16" above the table. Clamp a jointed 2 by 4 diagonally to the saw top...
This is too complicated to explain here. Go here for an article:
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker...onth/main.html
then finish with your router and RP bit.

2. I agree with biscuits/pocket screws with glue

3. I refuse to even discuss putting stain on beautiful Cherry. Please, use a clear finish and let nature show her stuff.

4. It's just my personal opinion, but since cabinets hold a lot of weight I use 3/4" material. I'm 'eventually' starting soon on our cabinets and will use melamine for easy cleaning, and cover the ends with solid Maple, wish I had enough Cherry.

Good luck
ken

[scorrpio]

1. I come up an idea that I can use Table Saw to remove most of the material before I can use router. The problem is that I have to use high vertical fence. I have measured the bevel angle to be about 18 degree, just need to raise up the featherboard to hold the board against the fence.

What you need here is a kind of tenoning jig. Take two pieces of 3/4" plywood, and join them at 90 degrees, reinforce with a couple wooden blocks. Attach a strip of wood to back end of the vertical piece. Clamp the panel to vertical plywood, braced against the wood strip, and run the horizontal ply along the fence. Trust me, this will probably take less than an hour to make and will make the process a lot easier.

2. What is the best way of join face frame to the carcass.

Bisquits, pocket screws. Glue alone is not very good here since you'll be gluing to end grain of the carcass. Bisquits are least visible - and in many cases the slots for them can be done with a router if you don't have a plate joiner.

3. Since I am using Cherry to make the raised panel door and face frame, I would like to know what kind of finish is the best.

Pick up latest WOOD magazine - an article on cherry there. The guy who been making cherry furniture for 30+ years says go for clear finish. Oil+wax and let it darken with time. If not sealed with poly, cherry will darken fairly well in 6 months, and get most of its color in 2 years.

4. As to the plywood used to make carcass, I noticed that most of the cabinets in homedepot use 3/8" thick plywood

Are you sure? That sounds awfully thin. Kitchen cabinets usually carry a lot of weight - plates and such are heavy. I personally would not use anything less than 3/4". I dinno about your area, but local HD here in northern NJ often carries what they call 'cabinet-grade plywood'. It costs $25-29 per sheet, and I used up several so far on various projects, and I have no complaints. No warps, delaminations, voids, and it looks good, too.