Blade cleaning

[BasementDweller]

My blades seem to be getting a yellowish goo on them. I do cut some pine, perhaps it is just build up from the more wet lumber I tend to find around here. Either way I've seen several references on this site about 'cleaning' your blade often. I think I certainly need to do this. I can't imagen I can really hurt my blade so I guess any heavy cleaner would work, but at the same time I don't want to use a cleaner that would leave a film that transfers to my wood and causing finishing problems. I guess I could just cut up some scrap after cleaning to let any extra cleaner get on the scrap wood. . . Anyway. . . On to my question: do you guys have any recommendations on what to use to clean my blades and on the "proper" way to do it?


Thanks for any info!


- BD

[Knottscott]

It's important to keep blades clean. Pitch build up causes heat and premature dulling. I've had success using 409, Simple Green, Goo Gone, Dawn/water, and Boeshield blade cleaner. 409 works really well...spray it on and use a toothbrush or brass bristle brush on the pitch.

[Crockett]

Simple Green is what I use also, spray it on the blade(s) let sit for a couple of minutes then use a brush to get the pitch off. Dry and use it right away. I have not had any touble with residue harming the finish.

Al

[Pappy]

I tried several products but the best I found is a mildew cleaner by Damp Rid. Haven't been able to find it anywhere but Lowe's. I put them in a plastic contaianer, snap on the lid, and let them soak for an hour or so. A small brass brush takes care of any stubborn spots.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I tried several products but the best I found is a mildew cleaner by Damp Rid. Haven't been able to find it anywhere but Lowe's. I put them in a plastic contaianer, snap on the lid, and let them soak for an hour or so. A small brass brush takes care of any stubborn spots.

How in the world did you think to try this in the first place?

[Pappy]

Actually, I was trying to get the mildew and stains out of a fiberglass tub/shower. The way it worked and the list of things it was safe to use on, I figured I would pull an old cheap blade out and give it a try.

[MilDoc]

Be aware that soaking carbide tipped blades in 100% Simple Green may damage the carbide. The manufacturer recommends a 1:10 dilution with water, sprayed on, scrubbed, and wiped off. They also make Extreme Simple Green which is non-corrosive at a 1:3 dilution.

And, since both are water based, dry completely to prevent rust.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Actually, I was trying to get the mildew and stains out of a fiberglass tub/shower. The way it worked and the list of things it was safe to use on, I figured I would pull an old cheap blade out and give it a try.

Fair enough. I was just visioning you trying each chemical under the sink. Let's see . . . a little clorox . . . a little amonia . . . . . a little mustard gas.

[Crockett]

thanks for that bit of info Paul, I never noticed really read the simple Green bottle. I gues it's nto as simple as I thought!
Al

[onedash]

i got a bottle of the pick stuff at woodcraft. Works good diluted. Works GREAT straight. it even took the clear coating stuff off one of the blades.

[jabe]

Cleaning Blades

I've been using oven cleaner on my blades and router blades with no adverse reaction for years. (Remove the bearings from the router blades before cleaning). Most times, with no scrubbing, just let it sit for 5 to 15 min. and rinse off and wipe it dry. If you're not going to use the blade right away, spray some WD-40 on it before storing. I use only carbide blades and have no problems with cleaning it with oven cleaner. Just use chemical resistance gloves.