??? on using a dovetail jig

[LarryG]

All for about $2 of wood (a 4-ft 1x4) and an afternoons time.

After maybe three attempts using MDF, I realized that was futile and grabbed a length of 1x6. I ripped it to 5-1/4", which is a multiple of the P-C 4212's finger spacing, so I'd get a "proper" half pin at each edge.

I only had about 45 minutes to play but by the end of that time the test joints were pretty close to fitting correctly ... certainly close enough to show me just how tiny the needed adjustments are when dialing in the setup.

[JR]

close enough to show me just how tiny the needed adjustments are when dialing in the setup.

It's also helpful to know how to adjust your router for bit height. My Ryobi has band around the case you twist for this adjustment. On the band are a series of numbers in 1/64" increments, however, they seem to increment backwards from the actual movement of the band.

Or, more likely, I'm an idiot.

JR

[scoly]

Just a thank you to those who shared their experience. Will be using a new jig myself in the near future and the shared experience will be very beneficial. Special thanks to Loring for taking the time to post a very complete step by step.
Steve

[jhart]

Being a newbie to dovetail joinery, I kept trying to get the setup right. Kept getting closer and closer, but something was always not quite right and it seemed as I would make adjustments, something else would not be quite right. I Have the Rockler half blind setup. About 2 weeks ago, saw a jig at Rockler, called the dovetail setup jig. Bought it ($14.99 I think), played around with it, setting up the dovetail jig for my router (DeWalt 618) and setting the bit to the height on the setup jig. Results: Perfect half blind dovetail. Couldn't have been simplier. Setup jig works for both 3/4 and 1/2" wood. I believe the HF dovetail is basically the same as the Rockler, so it should work with that as well. Not sure about the PC dovetail.

[JimD]

JR,

I will try and give you different ideas. First, there are a couple of different types of dovetail jig. I gather from your clamping issue and flatness of the template that you are probably using something like the new PC 4200 series which has a fixed stop at one end and you clamp the wood up against that end. With that sort of jig, the second board at the other end idea that has already been mentioned is good. I use a HF jig with a highly adjustable side stop that can allow one to clamp and cut in the center. I actually do not do this having started with the other style jig. I rarely have clamping issues but I rarely work with wood less than 4 inches wide.

The flatness of the template is also something that is more common with the style of jigs where you move the template in and out as the way to both get the round-over on the end of joint right and also to stop the joint in the front piece. If you set the template too tight to the wood, you can't get the drawer fronts in and if it's too high, you affect the joint. I never did like this height adjustment, it is something that I like better about the HF style jig. You adjust the height of the clamp but the template just pivots over the wood.

I put the pieces in the jig in a definite order. First goes the drawer side deliberately kept a bit low but high enough that the drawer front can butt into it. Next is the drawer front butted against the drawer side. Finally pull the drawer side up even with the top of the drawer front.

I have a piece of 1/2 inch baltic birch plywood screwed to the inside edge of the clamp bar for the drawer side. It helps a lot with tearout and is easier to use than a separate piece that must be set at about the right height. It nearly never requires replacement.

One tricky thing on the HF style jig is the adjustment for the depth of cut into the drawer front. There is a table in the better instructions that helps. I made a separate little jig with a piece of 1/8 hardboard on the front that is the width of the set-back for the stop. The hardboard helps adjust the template in and out to get the right round-over on the drawer side joint and also to hold the jig in position while you set the stop bar. The other thing to remember about this adjustment is that the depth of the router bit affects where the stop should be a little. With the bit deeper the dovetails are a little bigger and the stop has to be moved back towards the clamp bar a little.

I generally cut the first drawer front and side a couple inches long so I can cut a joint and, if I don't like the fit, cut it off and try again. You have to trim 1/2 inch or so. With a couple extra inches you can try at least 3 times before you have to have your adjustments right.

I also do not do the multiple cut method Loring mentions. I do not have to worry about chip out with the piece on the clamp bar for the drawer side so I just cut the joint from left to right following the template. I do not look, I cut by feel. If Loring's method works for you, use it. If not, I recommend firm downward pressure but fairly gentle side pressure and just glide along. It is much easier with practice. A 7/16 template is easier, IMHO, because you do not have to go along the template at the back of the joint like you do with the 1/2 spacing. Not a big deal but when you are starting, if you have the choice, you might try the 7/16 before the 1/2.


Jim

[JR]

Thanks, JimD, for the very thoughtful response.

I actually have the HF unit. I guess I should have mentioned it bofore. It comes with the 1/2' template.

I actually did get a lot of flex from the clamps using 4" stock, and I had the side stops pretty much toward the center of the jig. I discovered that if i had the side-piece clamp set too tightly, it would cause the template to rise up off the stock, so I had to press down on the router and template or risk inconsistent depth of cut.

When i switched to 6" stock (after having worn the 4" down to nubbins!), I had no probs with the stock moving.

Some great ideas from JimD:

• Permanent tear out inhibitor
• 1/8" setup jig

I also found it interesting that your technique, while differing from Loring's, shares the touchy-feely aspect. I'm not aware of another powertool woodworking task that depends so much on feel.

JR

[JimD]

JR,

Glad if I could help a little. I agree that a dovetail jig is more "touchy-feely" than most work with power tools but developing good technique and a feel for what is "right" helps with nearly all power tools. One of the best indications that a bit is dull or a circular saw blade is dull is the feel. You have to force things a bit telling you it's time to stop.

Jim