Mounting A Right Side Miter Slot?

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  • KODIAKBEAR

    Mounting A Right Side Miter Slot?

    Any Suggestions On The Best Way To Mount A Miter Slot On The Right Side Will Be Greatly Appreciated.

    I'm Also Not Exactly Sure How To Fine Tune The Alignment Of The Existing Miter Slot On The Left Side. How Do I Ensure It Is Exactly Parallel With The Blade?
  • mschrank
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2004
    • 1130
    • Hood River, OR, USA.
    • BT3000

    #2
    Check this link: http://bt3000.com/RSMTMK/

    Also, here's a link to a thread with a similar inquiry and some alternate suggestions:
    http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=4952&
    Mike

    Drywall screws are not wood screws

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    • KODIAKBEAR

      #3
      Thanx For The Links.

      Comment

      • Greg.B
        Established Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 166
        • Joppa, Maryland
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        Get a piece of wood, approx 4" wide 1/2" thick and same size in length as the Dual Miter Slot. Set it on the saw body on the right side. Note the area where the saw body contacts the wood, draw pencil marks on those areas. You will notice that when you put the board across the aw body and then put the dual miter on it, it will be sitting too high. What you need to do is dado the width of the saw body into the bottom of the board. Once you get that perfect, just drill thru the saw body and bolt up the board, and then bolt the miter to the board. I have done it and it works great and all you need is a router, or a dado blade.
        Former Member Name - JohnnyTest

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        • vaking
          Veteran Member
          • Apr 2005
          • 1428
          • Montclair, NJ, USA.
          • Ryobi BT3100-1

          #5
          Take a look at my setup pictures in this thread.
          http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19268
          I have my dual slot table mounted on the right but I use router in the accessory table on the other side of it so I made my dual slot table removable and reversible for router use. When I remove it I can mount SMT on its place. The trick was that I attached a hardwood block to the dual slot table and mount that as an assembly. The hardwood block and dual-slot table combined have same width as SMT.
          Alex V

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          • 91FE
            Established Member
            • Dec 2005
            • 303
            • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

            #6
            Valking,

            Any chance I could get some specifics on both your dual slot table and the attachment of the craftsman fence. I've got both and would love to mimic <read: ripoff> your setup.

            Thanks!
            I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

            Comment

            • vaking
              Veteran Member
              • Apr 2005
              • 1428
              • Montclair, NJ, USA.
              • Ryobi BT3100-1

              #7
              91,
              At first about dual slot miter table (let's abbreviate it DSMT). I cut a piece of hardwood the same length and thickness as DSMT. The width is such that hardwood block and DSMT together are the same width as SMT. I drilled 2 holes in the vertical wall of DSMT close to ends and attached the hardwood block to DSMT permanently with 2 hex head wood screws. You need hex head because the screws hide inside the DSMT and you cannot get to them with screwdriver. Considering this as an assembly I then drilled 2 holes right in the center line of the assembly 3" from ends. I attach the DSMT assembly with 5/16" screws to the saw. This DSMT assembly is reversible because holes are along the center line and same distance from ends. In order to mount DSMT assembly to the saw you need to mount a piece of plywood on top of ribs of the saw body. The plywood needs to be about 3/8" thick at the place where it sits on ribs. The best option is to take a 1/2" ply and cut 1/8" dados where it meets the ribs. Drill small holes and attach the plywood to ribs with small screws and nuts. Other people here at the forum already described that setup. You then install T-nuts or brass inserts into that plywood for the 2 screws that hold DSMT assembly. Let me know if this is unclear and you want more pictures.
              Craftsman Pro fence is attached to rails. Rockler sells a T-track kit which includes 4' of T-track and bunch of 1/4" special screws and knobs. It is normally $21.99 but often goes on sale. Here is a link:
              http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=T-slot
              The T-track is usefull anyway but for this project the special screws and knobs are just the right stuff. They fit into top slots on both front and rear rails and lock tight. Please note - there are Jeff's T-nuts for the top slot of front rail but not for rear - you will have to invent something anyway. The rest is easy - replace angle brackets that came with Craftsman fence with another set of brackets. I used Simpson Strong-Tie A44 angle bracket from HD. They are zink plated and are designed for deck construction. One bracket looked flimsy to me so I used 2 on each side and riveted them together. A small piece of hardwood goes on top of rail between the rail and angle bracket.
              Alex V

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