MasterGrip Router

[poolhound]

I noticed a thread about Mastergrip drill bits at Costco and have also seen a Mastergrip Router + Table + 4 bits at Costco for only $59!!! Has anybody seen this or even tried it?

I am a brand newbie with the BT3100 just got it home yesterday and waiting to rearrange my shop to install it.

Found this forum and its really great. I know I will be posting lots here as well as learning much from everybody.

Jon - expectant woodworker

[John Hunter]

Welcome aboard!

[gmack5]

Welcome Joe,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish. Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does. If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner.

That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" in the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=1699
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[monte]

Welcome to the group Jon. Be safe and enjoy your new saw.

[mschrank]

I noticed a thread about Mastergrip drill bits at Costco and have also seen a Mastergrip Router + Table + 4 bits at Costco for only $59!!! Has anybody seen this or even tried it?

Welcome to the forum, Jon! I've found this place to be a great source of info and inspiration.

Regarding the Costco deal: I've not seen it, haven't heard of the brand, and have no legitimate reason for giving an opinion. That said, I'll now say steer clear of it. I understand your desire to get a shop up and running, but I really think this would be a purchase you would regret fairly soon. The red flag for me is the price...you're familiar with the expressions "if it sounds too good good to be true...." and "You get what you pay for?"

A router, table, and bits are, IMHO, key components to a wood shop. I'd recommend saving up and going for a known brand. Also, with the BT3 you already have a router table that will get you by for now (you just need to buy the router kit if you don't already have it).

You'll find plenty of recommendations for routers. Mine is for the Bosch 1617EVSPK two base kit. Best deal I've found is a reconditioned unit from CPO Bosch, though their prices have increased lately.

There's my 0.02 plus cents...I'm sure you'll get plenty of other tips

[JR]

Well, not to be contrarian, but I'll offer advice which is exactly the opposite of mschrank's!

I've glanced the Mastergrip tools at Costco and have no reason to think they are deficient. The one in question has modest power, IIRC, at about 1 or 1-1/2hp. This makes it functional for most simple operations, but not good for things like panel raising or complex profiles. In other words, it's good for a beginner.

I have come to regard Costco buyers as a form of retail god. Somehow they always find very good to great products at good prices. For $59 for a router, four bits and a table, how can you go wrong? You'll be cranking out useful projects in no time.

Eventually you'll discover the limitations of this setup and want something more. Most router discussions among woodworkers lead to the question of how many routers of which type a woodworker should own. This router would find a home in your shop for some task even when you've moved on to multi-base high-HP all-singing all-dancing high-bucks units. This could include dedicated dovetail usage, dedicated simple roundovers, etc.

I guess mschrank and I are proposing two different philosophies of tool acquisition. The mschrank one, shared by many people, would be to do your research, find the the best tool you need and get it at a fair price. The JR philosophy, perhaps shared by nobody , is to start with useful modestly priced tools, learning what you'll need to know, then upgrading once you're sure how to identify a tool's finer points.

Good Luck,
JR

[cwsmith]

I'm not familiar with the particular tool, brand, or for that matter, Costco. However, $59 seems like really "cheap" for anything like the complexity and quality features required of a decent router, not to mention the addition of bits and also a table. If you check around, you'll finde that it's rather difficult to find even a table for that price.

I realize that "price" is relative to the size of your wallet, but unless you are in a hurry, I'd do your homework and look around at features and recommendation of those who offer you their experience.

Generally speaking, you want a table that is not only stable, but has a surface that is flat, not subject to warp or sag (with the weight of the router), has a good safety guard, adjustable fence, etc. In other words take a look at this particular table's construction and features and do some comparison. Regardless of price, if it's wobbly, sagging, and featureless, it's not only a waste, but also a danger!

Bit's need to be well constructed. Some bits are downright dangerous, so if they are poorly made, improperly tempered, poor weld, etc. you don't want to ever use one. Remember, these things are spinning at 15,000 rpm or more.. if anything breaks loose, you don't want to be in the same room!

Router's need to not only have decent motors, switches, and comfortable-to-use designs; but, they also need to have decently designed collets. (That's the part that holds the bit.) Some of the cheaper designs have simply nothing more than a rather shallow taper bored into the end of the motor shaft. The nut and collet area that holds the bit may have as little as a 1/4-inch depth to hold the bit's shaft. That simply isn't enough and it probably won't hold the shaft tight enough; resulting in rapid wear, burning, etc. Definiely NOT a safe way to go.

I think most experienced router users will tell you to look for a router with a 1/2" shaft capability. Bits with a 1/2" diameter are significantly stronger than 1/4" shafts. While the latter may be more attractive from a starting point of view, I think you'll soon look to upgrade, especially if you're really getting into it, working with hardwoods, etc.

Bottom line is to do some more homework. If the $59 deal looks worthwhile afterthat, then what the heck. But, the idea of spending $59 just for "something to start with" may prove to be more of a turn-off, if you're not careful.

My two-cents,

CWS

[sacherjj]

I can't comment on that particular brand, but I will say this. When I got started in woodworking, I purchased three new things. BT3100 (great purchase), Sears 10" bandsaw (decent purchase), a $90 two base Skil router. The router is OK, but each time i use it and fight with the alignment issues it's poor lockdown gives, I regret the purchase. For not much more, I would have something that would last and work much better. I now purchased for quality and wait if I can't get the right tool yet.

[vaking]

No clear opinion but some experience.
I have several tools from Costco, some are brand name (Jet Drill press and Jet dust collector), some are no name (Mastergrip or may be Mastercraft, don't remember exactly) forstner bit set, regular bit set, router bit set, measuring tools, carving chisel set. All are good purchases. No name bits are of better quality than more expensive Craftsman bits (craftsman non-pro, Craftsman Pro is better). Overall - Costco sells good but not great products at very fair price. If I need a starter level tool and Costco has it - I would buy it gladly.
Different story is what you really need.
Ryobi BT3100 includes a router table option that will work on the par with any table you can buy for around $100 for table alone. You will need to make a fence but why buy tools if you cannot use them?

[poolhound]

Wow - what great responses, I know this forum is going to be a great source of informatio nand inspiration.

George - Thanks so much for the usful info, I know what I will be doing this weekend. Do I need to go anywhere apecial for the Johnson's Paste Wax or will any hardware store have it?

The rest of you guys thanks for the input on the router. I know there are lots of opinions and I have yet to find somebody who has actually used one of these. I did find out that MasterGrip is a generic brand name that Costco uses so the orginal manufacturer could be anybody. While I agree with the "get what you pay for" addage, my feelings thus far are in line with JR. I have bought a number of items at Costco and so far have not had a bummer. Costco has such a good return policy that I can at least buy one take it home and experiment and if it sucks I can take it back.

I have had a lot of luck with what might seem like "false economy" tools. I started some remoddling work last year on my house and bought an $88 wet saw from HD. This completed the orginal bathroom project - fully tiled porcelain walls and marble floor. Over the holidays I laid ~900 sq ft of 20 inch tile on the diagonal all cut with this saw (and a special table extension I built). and this weekend I will finish a tiled backspash for the kitchen. At that rate it has paid for itself and more.

I think I will get the MG router and send in some photos so everybody can take a look. Are there any obvious tests I could try to see how it performs?

Thanks for everything so far - will report back later.

Jon

[poolhound]

OK - so for $59 I thought what the heck. I went to the closest Costco and there it was but $79. I then went back to the one I saw earlier and found I wasnt imagining it they had it there for $59, so I bought it. I will assemble tomorrow but it looks at least as good and specs a bit better than the Ryobi combo which I think HD has for around $100.

The table is aluminum, it has a mitre guage, dust port on both the table and the router (for when its off the table), dual switched outlet for shop vac etc, variable speed up to ~28000. There are 6 bits included, 2 straight, dovetail, V, Round and a bearing edge rounder.

Bottom line of it doesnt work out I can take it back.

Pictures later, that is if I can figure out how to post them - any hints would be helpful.

Jon

[Stormbringer]

Pictures later, that is if I can figure out how to post them - any hints would be helpful.

Jon

Simple. Click "Go Advanced". Below your "Reply To Thread" box click "Manage Attachments" and uploead the picture from wherever you save it on your hard drive. Done.

Good Luck with the purchase,
Greg

[poolhound]

First try and Photos

OK so I assembled the router table today (and my BT3100 - horrah!) and as promised here are some photos.

Seems sturdy and a few sample cuts show it to work just fine. The fence adjustment is rather coarse, however it does have the ability to adust the outfeed fence separately so will function as a form of jointer.

Being a plunge router makes setup tough but for basic stuff it seems like this should work fine. Any tips on setup without the aid of a fine tunable fixed router would be appreciated.

Take a look at the photos and see what you think - again for $59 not too bad.

[tlt]

got one too

I see you've already picked one up, but I'll throw in my .02 anyways

These were $99 to start out with, I picked one up when they were $20 off, so at $59 you got yourself a nice deal. The big power on/off button that it comes with can run you $20 anyways.

I've used this little table for rounding/profiling/any bit that uses a bearing. I found that the plunge router was a bit of a bear to adjust the height, and I didn't see any easy way to remove the springs...if you find a way let met know. I haven't used the bits that came with the router, but I have a 36 piece Mastergrip bit set from costco that has been doing fine for over a year.

It is a nice little table to get you started, and an inexpensive way to figure out exactly what you want in a router table. I will probably keep this guy set up as a roundover table, and build/upgrade to a nicer table for my PC/Hitachi routers to do raised panels and the like.

[poolhound]

Did you do anything to the table surface? For protection, mine came with a light grease on it. I was going to de-grease. lightly rub down and then paste wax it. Does that sound sensible?


Jon