Rip Cut Question

[DJB]

I just want to make sure I get this right...

To rip a 3" wide board to 2-1/2", I should put set the fence to be 2-1/2" from the blade, right?

What if I needed a 1/2" board from the 3" one? Should I set the fence at 1/2" from the blade, or set the fence so that the 1/2" piece will fall free and the larger piece (3" - 1/2" - kerf width) will be between the fence and the blade?

I am guessing the latter. It doesn't seem like a good idea to have such a thin piece (1/2") trapped between the fence and the blade.

Thanks for any help.

Dave

[scorrpio]

First off, things should not 'fall off' Get some kind of support on the outfeed side of your saw. Some use a flip-up table, some simply set out a sawhorse as tall at the saw. A piece that starts falling, twists a bit and hits a spinning blade is going to travel at great speed in a random direction.

The standard advice is to hold onto the piece that's between fence and the blade, and to remove guess work, set the fence-to-blade dstance, so that waste piece is the one on the outer side.

If your rip fence is properly aligned, thin pieces should not be a problem.

For either kind of rip, I would set up a featherboard that holds the work to the fence, and used a push stick (Well, I actually use one of those push shoes) to feed the piece. Make sure your riving knife is in place and aligned, and that pawls are in place as well. If you don't want pawls scratching the wood face, put painters' tape on top of the cut.

[Jon The Buddha]

I am guessing the latter. It doesn't seem like a good idea to have such a thin piece (1/2") trapped between the fence and the blade.

I think for a single cut, you would be correct. Reason being that you want the largest distance between the blade and fence so that you can feed the board through safely. Otherwise you would need a very narrow push stick.

For multiple thin cuts from the same board, however, it might be better the opposite way. There are simple jigs that would safely allow you to make repetitive thin cuts. The jig would go between the blade and rip fence and have a notch cut out of it that matches the width of the cut you want to make. Kinda hard to explain.

I have a very good book that I bought at Lowes called "The Complete Table Saw Book". This book is amazing! It even has a section that covers this very topic. It was only $20, and is as complete a reference as I could find. Very good illustrations and pictures!!! Every noob needs this book. I plan on posting a complete review of it here when I get a chance.

[Tom Miller]

I assume you mean "fall free" figuratively, as opposed to letting gravity have its way.

Ripping narrow stock between the blade and the fence is indeed something that needs to be done with care, as you're obviously aware. There are clear advantages to doing it this way, and it can be done. But it's also possible to get good results with the narrow piece on the other side of the blade.

Better folks than I have written on the subject, so I'll defer to this thread or this one.

Regards,
Tom