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I recently read mention of not using the Grr-Ripper in a certain way on the table saw due to a kickback issue. Could someone direct me to any articles on or about that or explain the exact problem?
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May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac -
I don't know about any articles, but assume the point is that the Grr-Ripper is designed not to prevent kickback but to keep your hands away from the blade when cutting small or narrow boards. If you cut a board shorter in length than the exposed amount of blade, and the tip of the board is close to your fence, the board could rotate slightly, stick between blade and fence, and kick upward and backward. Not as likely with the Grr-Ripper pressing down on the wood and minimizing its rotation, but you'd still want to keep the fence away from the wood on these narrow crosscuts.- David
“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” -- Oscar Wilde -
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In a nutshell, the Grrripper has the capability to exert upon the workpiece both down-pressure, and when equipped with its optional secondary side plate, side-pressure as well. The side plate is for router table work, and not meant to be used on the table saw, which requires down-pressure only.
What happens on the TS when side-pressure is exerted (like pushing the workpiece up against the fence) is that the cutoff portion of the work gets pinched up against the trailing edge of the blade, causing kickback.
This is similar to what would happen if you used a featherboard BEHIND the blade (also a no-no). Featherboards are fine when located IN FRONT of the blade. The problem with the Grrripper is that it moves from in front of the blade to in back of it as the work is fed through, so it should only be ised to hold DOWN on the work. It's a great piece of hardware, but needs to be used properly....eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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Sigh.........I guess I should go back to lurking - man do I feel bad posting info that if not done with care could get one injured.
What I do -
If it's a small strip being ripped & a portion of the body of the gripper falls outside the edge of the cut off I use the apron to give the gripper a bit more balance. I do NOT have the apron in contact with the cut off piece - there is ALWAYS a gap between the apron & the cut off piece. This gap prevents any side pressure against the cut off which means it will not be forced into the blade causing kickback. The ONLY reason I use the apron is to provide a bit of extra balance - it is not necessary.
Disclaimer - I do NOT reccomend this approach, I recommend that you follow MicroJig's instructions & NOT use the apron when making rip cuts. I am not responsible if you injure yourself by choosing to ignore the manufacturer's instructions. If you use the gripper this way you are accepting the risk of being injured.
Here's a pic of what I mean:Attached FilesComment
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Where's the side pressure?
I don't understand something. How does the side apron exert side force when used on a table saw? I thought it was intended for use as a leveling foot, when cutting workpieces too narrow to support at least two of the GRR-Ripper's runners.LarryComment
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Indeed, it can be used that way. If you follow the link to the sawmill accident you'll doubtless come to the same conclusion I did (I saw this before I bought a gripper which is why I knew/know enough not to do it) - he just didn't think the cut completely through (easy to do in this case). What I guess happened.Originally posted by LarryG
#1 - Start with small piece
#2 - Line up cut, make sure no "feet" are in blade path
#3 - Drop the apron for support
#4 - Completely FORGET about saw kerf
As you'll notice he has the apron tight against the cut off & the gripper is against the fence prior to the cut = the cut off is jammed against the blade & as he pushed it through the rear of the piece was forced into blade
BLAM - instant heartattack
Of course bonus is that if the gripper didn't keep his hands so far from the blade (tall handle) he'd have no fingers on that hand now.
If you'll notice in my pic - the gap, which is crucial to safety. The cutoff is not forced into the bade at any point - it has space to moveComment
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This sawmillcreek thread is good to know! Thanks for posting it I am about to order 2 of these and the more info I have the safer I will feel using it properly. Thanks for postingeric mayComment
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Also of note - you'll notice no splitter or riving knife was in use for that accident.Comment
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Why not just get a CNC machine? Then you go drink beer in front of the TV while the machine does the work!
(Good illustration about the gap, Erik. It's essential if you're going to use the side guide. I usually leave the guide off, because its contact with the table does add some resistance to the movement of the workpiece, but to each his own.) The Grrripper does make the work so much easier, and keeps your hands safe, as well as giving you more chance to stand off-line from the blade....eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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Thanks for the info gents
A lot of good info from all. Thanks. Allow me to add one small thing. Grr-Ripper also recommends that the handle is directly over the blade at all times. I would imagine for safely sake. They are a fine tool but looks like even with them there is an element of risk.May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, MacComment
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Hi Mac;
That "element of risk" you talk about is built into the 'on' switch !!
Be safe, and I have the Grripper and it's great!
WEGComment
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The Gripper excels at cutting pen & pencil blanks. There are many uses for the Gripper that make is much safer for the home hobbyist woodworker. The power feed wouldn't even begin to work for this. Beside that many many millions of board feet were pushed though a table-saw long before a powered feeder ever showed up on the scene & for home use is not always practical.Comment
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