Is there a way to square up a panel, say 18 by 26, using just the tablesaw? I have some scrap wood which is not square that I would like to use for a new project. I currently use a circular saw with a guide to square up one side then put that side against the rip fence to square the other sides. I was just wondering if there was a way to do it all on the tablesaw.
Squaring a panel
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You can do it by ripping the edges and then squaring the ends with a cross cut sled very easily.Monte (another darksider)
Reporting Live from somewhere near Kalamazoo
http://community.webshots.com/user/monte49002Comment
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Check out the Joint'R Clamp Kit http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415 I use it to square up lumber and it should work fine with panels.
John HunterComment
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If it is a large panel, I would clamp a straight edge to it, turn it over, and let the straight edge ride the left side of the table along the table edge. After the first cut, use the fence for the next three. This method will only work if the clamped panel is wide enough for the straight edge to hang over the saw table.
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BUBBLER PIPELast edited by newbie2wood; 09-15-2011, 04:42 AM.Comment
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Thanks everyone for all of the suggestions!! I knew there was a way to do it all on the tablesaw. My friend and I were discussing it and we never thought of clamping a straight-edge to the piece. You learn something new every day. I love woodworking!Measure once...cut a whole bunch of times!
I'm with the govt, we're here to help.Comment
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I'm about to have a similar dilema with some artist panels i need to make .
theyre masonite backed with a cedar frame.
after glueing up i like to take 1/16" or so off each edge to remove squeeze-out and have a nice flush crisp edge.
problem is i dont have long extension rails like some here, and this time the panels are 3'x5' !!
i guess i'll have to use circ.saw with a straight edge guide?
anyone have a way for ripping 1/8" or less against the fence? the edges are square enough ,just need to be cleaned flush..Last edited by tribalwind; 02-24-2006, 03:17 PM.namaste, matthew http://www.tribalwind.comComment
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Do you have a router? I keep a 4', 6', and 8' long melamine covered shelf boards around for this kind of thing. Clamp the shelfboard on top, and guide the baseplate of the router, or clamp it underneath and use a flushcut bit.
That's one way to joint long stock, too.
Regards,
TomComment
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Originally posted by newbie2woodIf it is a large panel, I would clamp a straight edge to it, turn it over, and let the straight edge ride the left side of the table along the table edge. After the first cut, use the fence for the next three. This method will only work if the clamped panel is wide enough for the straight edge to hang over the saw table.
Either clamping or Screwing a straight edge to the edge that rides against the Rip Fence (parallel to the Saw Blade) should work, just clamp/screw it to the bottom side, then run it thru up-side-down, so the screw holes won't show on your finished work piece.Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!
GeorgeComment
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A temporary straightedge can also be attached with double-stick tape. Slap a couple 4" long strips of that stuff on there and that straightedge ain't going NOWHERE.
(Sidebar to those who have not yet discovered the joys of double-stick tape in a woodshop: get yourself a roll. A BIG roll. Today.)LarryComment
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Originally posted by LarryGA temporary straightedge can also be attached with double-stick tape. Slap a couple 4" long strips of that stuff on there and that straightedge ain't going NOWHERE.
(Sidebar to those who have not yet discovered the joys of double-stick tape in a woodshop: get yourself a roll. A BIG roll. Today.)
Before I got a clamp-n-guide, I used to just double-sticky-tape a framing square onto the panel, and let the edge of the square ride the fence.
Look for the stuff sold as carpet or rug tape. Not the stuff carpet installers use to join carpets, but the stuff for holding a rug in place on the floor.
Regards,
TomComment
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thanks tom!
duh, why'd i didnt think of using a flushtrim bit
actually if i dont do that i might use this nifty idea i found in the 1'st issue of shopnotes(i found pdf's of ever issue)
they made a jointer out of the tablesaw by attaching a sacrificial fence,flush into the right-side of the blade,then adding a 1/8" masonite "outfeed table" into the backside of the blade,just past center.
i'd just post the pic of it from the pdf but didnt think it would be kosher here.
seems like it'll work perfectly as it gives a big flat surface(the tabletop) for the panel to lay flat onnamaste, matthew http://www.tribalwind.comComment
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Well, if you have a BT with an SMT that's accurate, (mine is) you can turn it around and use it as a crosscut sled. I square 18" panels that way all the time. PatWoodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>Comment
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