BT3100 adequate for kitchen cabinetry?

[Rooftree]

I currently own a small, cheap benchtop tablesaw and am planning on buying a replacement. After much research I've narrowed the choices down to the BT3100 and the Ridgid TS3650. This site has been the primary force in persuading me to consider the 3100. Thanks for all of the info!

I was initially only considering the Ridgid. I was in Home Depot a few days ago to look at it when I spied a funny-looking saw nearby. I assumed that the strange design and gizmos were just a bunch of worthless gimmics, so I turned my nose up. After seeing how big the Ridgid is, I had second thoughts since my basement is small and cramped. Now I realize that the odd-looking BT3100 might be a good candidate based on its size and modest price. But I'm concerned that it might not be big enough for some of my planned projects around the house:

kitchen cabinets for a very small kitchen
doors for kitchen cabinets (I might buy them instead)
built-in pantry cabinet
two 10' long built-in benches underneath windows
various cabinets and shelves
building a sturdy woodworker's bench
miscellanous cutting during kitchen remodel

My main concern are the kitchen cabinets. The carcases will be biscuit joined with a few supporting screws. The face frames will be biscuit joined also. I don't plan to do any dado cuts. Will the BT3100 be big enough? I'll have the sheet stock ripped to rough size at Home Depot. But I wonder about cross-cutting for cabinets. Do any of you have experience with projects of this size on BT3x00s?

For the tops of the benches, I'd like to edge join two 1x8 pine boards. I don't have a jointer. Can I get good enough glue edges by ripping on the 3100?

Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

[WEG]

Hi Mike;
I haven't had any projects that I have found I 'can't do' because of the limitations of my BT3100 including kitchen cabinets and doors. The saw is a fine tablesaw with limitations and pluses like all tools, but it is a serious tablesaw and not a cheap tabletop variety. It is light weight compared to a cast iron saw like the Rigid, but I do not find it unstable or inaccurate because of that. In fact, with the Sliding Mitre Table (SMT) adjustable rails (it will rip 30 inches wide), and great stock blade, it's got more ability than many saws costing more. I think you could glue up following ripping 1x's without much problem, I have.
Now saying all this IF you really like the cast iron "stability", weight, standard miter slots, then maybe the Rigid is for you. Try the BT3100 and if you don't like it, bring it back to HD and get the Rigid. Can't go wrong. My $.02 Hope this helps.
WEG

[JR]

Rooftree,

Yep, the BT will do the deed if that's the way you decide to go.

When building cabinets one of the most important issues is how to handle cutting down sheet goods. This will be a problem no matter the saw you choose. You'll want to set up some sort of infeed/outfeed arrangement and maybe something on the side as well.

For instance, a typical lower cabinet will be 24" deep by 30" high. You can cut either of those dimensions on the BT, but when you're starting with an 8' by 4' sheet it can get a bit dicey. You may end up rough cutting with a circular saw, then running the stuff through the table saw to final dimension.

Good luck,
JR

[germdoc]

For the price you really can't go wrong. Very accurate rips and crosscuts.

Also don't forget utility of being able to mount a router.

[jziegler]

Rooftree,

Welcome to the forum. I bought mt BT a few months ago to work on cabinets as well as other projects. Works just fine for me. But, for the rough cuts on the sheet goods, a circular saw with a decent blade and a saw guide of some sort (search on sawboard) is almost a must.

Also, on the face frames, instead of biscuits, consider pocket hole joints, especially if you don't already have the biscuit joiner.

-Jim

[Tim Clark]

I just bought my BT in Jan and so far I couldn't be happier. I had to use my circular saw to cut the big sheets down but once I got it down to size the BT tears through 3/4" oak ply as well as any saw you could buy. Plus I got the router mount kit and got to use it today. Takes a little getting used to but love it so far.

You won't be dissappointed in the BT3100. A great value and a great bargain at $249.

[Rooftree]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably buy the BT within the next few weeks. I hope I can run across a sale or rebate during that time.

I'll definitely have Home Depot do a rough rip of all my sheet goods. That's the only way I can get the stuff into my hatchback anyway. I have a workbench that I can use as an outfeed table. I'll see if I can get by without an infeed table.

I'm looking forward to diving into my projects and learning from collected wisdom here.

-Mike

[monte]

Welcome to the group Mike. The BT3100 will do just fine for projects you are planning. I built many cabinets with my BT3000.

[Tim Clark]

Mike,

Consider stopping by your local auto parts store (I got mine at VIP) and invest in an inexpensive ($20-$30) roof rack for your buggy. They attach in minutes and make hauling sheet goods and longer stock far less frustrating in a smaller vehicle. You just want decent weather when you use it.

[dkhoward]

Mike,
For an idea of what is possible with the BT, take a stroll through some of the projects that are in the forums with pics. Most of them amaze me. I have worked in shops with some of the most expensive equipment available and never saw production any better than what is put out by the members of this forum.

[JimD]

Ditto on the BT3100, roof rack and pocket screws for face frame.

I have made cabinets for a small kitchen in our basement, a bathroom and cabinets in our family room on my BT3100. I also made a complete set of bedroom furniture, Mission style, out of oak. BT3100 is fully up to the task.

Making raised panel doors is not hard but you have to have a router table. MLCS is a good source of bits and their catelog may help you understand how to make the doors. Making is a lot cheaper than buying and gives you more flexibility on cabinet size.

Jim

[Rooftree]

The roof rack is a good idea. I have one that I use occasionaly, but I like to avoid messing with it if possible. That's why I like to let Home Depot do the rough ripping.

It's good to hear that so many people have successfully made cabinets with the BT. I'm anxious to get started. But first I'll have to get around to actually buying it. Probably next weekend.

My plan is to use my biscuit joiner as much as possible. I haven't yet decided on frameless vs. face frame, although I'm leaning strongly towards frameless as a way of making things easier. The trick will be to come up with a design that blends in well with our 95 year old house. I'll probably use beadboard in a simple frame for the doors.

I've heard from a few sources that it's a good idea to build the cabinets and buy the doors. I'll be completely swamped in doing a total gutting and remodeling of the kitchen, so I'm looking for ways to cut corners. Hopefully there are good sources out there for reasonably-priced doors.

- Mike

[venkatbo]

quote:Originally posted by Rooftree

... I've heard from a few sources that it's a good idea to build the cabinets and buy the doors. I'll be completely swamped in doing a total gutting and remodeling of the kitchen, so I'm looking for ways to cut corners. Hopefully there are good sources out there for reasonably-priced doors....

You may want to checkout
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/remodel
Folks there at one point suggested the 'Premier' brand at HD. If you get a chance get a copy of Premier's catalog and see their door sample.. Seem to be a middle-of-road $/quality-wise category to this novice eye...

/venkat

[gmack5]

Another "Tin Bender"!
Welcome to the Forum, Mike, glad to have you aboard.
Don't be afraid to ask questions here, this is one of the most helpful sites on the Web. [^]