To KM12VC or not

[koehler]

Had a thread about my KM12VC, and just happened to find the box for it, and have been encouraged to consider getting a fixed base only to start with. Someone mentioned that because this router is a dual fixed/plunge router, using it primarily as a table router means that it is a bit more of a pain to change bits as it requires 2 wrenches, and height adjustment is sub-optimal due to its dual fixed/plunge design.

Since I'm a complete novice woodworker, I'm wondering if it might not indeed be better to just get a good fixed base router, and worry about a plunge at a later date. My thinking is as it will be in the table most of the time, features which include 1 wrench or no wrench bit changing, and more accessible bit height adjustment in-table are probably priority features.

Is it possible to get a decent fixed-base router with these options at a savings over the $175 I payed for the KM12VC? I like the Rockler #1 table, and would like to get a router compatible with that, however Bosch and DeWalts are a bit pricier than I think I want to spend, unless I have too.
I expect to use this primarily for smaller projects, and if I find myself becoming skilled enough, would easily upgrade to a 3+ hp router in the future to make my kitchen cabinets.

Are there any decent mid-range routers available which you would think excel at being table-based and are adequately accurate and user-friendly in the bit changining/height adjusting category?

Or, should I keep this Hitachi, or go with one of their fixed, variable speed models?

For mainly hobbiest use, do I really need the variable speed if I am not using the larger bits?

Thanks for you time.

[maxparot]

I have the KM12VC kit myself and have no complaints. I knew about the 2 wrench bit changes when I got it.

[LarryG]

If this is going to be your only router for a while, I'd stand pat with what you have. You may see yourself using the router almost exclusively in the table, but there will be times when handheld is the only way to work (usually because the workpiece is too large for the table). That's when having a two-base kit becomes a real advantage.

You won't find a high-quality router that costs significantly less than the $175 you already have invested. For example, a very nice single-speed fixed base router is the Milwaukee 5615; cost is about $160. The second base of your Hitachi is worth far more than $15 in usability and convenience, to say nothing of its actual dollar value.

And while I don't know who is encouraging you to return the Hitacho kit and get a fixed-base-only router, IMO it's bad advice. I don't see the logic. You already HAVE a fixed-base router that you can mount in your table. What's to be gained by buying a different fixed-base router and giving up the plunge base? That makes no sense.

Kind of another subject but you can build yourself a perfectly servicable router table for a lot less than the commercially available ones cost. Most of those are loaded up with semi-useless geegaws that are not really needed.

Variable speed can be useful on wood that splinters or burns easily. Also, even something like a 3/4" roundover or drawer lock bit (both about 1-1/2" overall diameter) is big enough to require a slower speed. It's not just the monster panel-raisers that need to be slowed down.

Unless you plan to build a LOT of kitchen cabinets, you don't NEED a 3+HP router to do it. A ~2HP router will swing a panel-raising bit just fine; the only difference is that you may need to make three passes rather than two.

Finally, I've not examined the KM12VC in detail but with most fixed-base routers, the easiest and quickest way to change bits is to remove the motor cylinder from the base and lay it on a workbench. I personally prefer the two-wrench system, but you will find that trying to change bits in a router with only one wrench is not any easier with the router under the table. My old 1HP Craftsman lives in my BT's accessory table; the motor won't come out of the base; it uses one wrench; bit changes are a PITA. The best way to effect in-table bit changes is from up top, and in most cases that will require a lift. Second best is to drop the motor out of the base, and that's where the fixed-base from a two-base kit shines.

EDIT: If you've not already done so. spend as much time as you can stand at www.patwarner.com reading, learning, absorbing, in particular the "Understanding Routing" section. And before you buy a commercially-built table, get a copy of the Hylton/Matlack book "Woodworking With The Router" and read up on what they have to say about tables.

[koehler]

Larry,

Thanks, economically that makes sense. And, without getting into a raizer/lift, would appear that I'll just have to live with the 2 wrench system. I guess if it were a ral pain, I could look into something like the Jacob's PowerCollet, right?

Thanks, looks like a couple of good reasons to keep it after all.

[CAPPER]

The Freud FT1700VCEK has all the features you want.

Above table one wrench bit change
Above table height adjust - no lift needed!
Price about $180

[koehler]

quote:Originally posted by CAPPER

The Freud FT1700VCEK has all the features you want.

Above table one wrench bit change
Above table height adjust - no lift needed!
Price about $180

Thanks Capper, they appear to have a pretty good reputation. I hate being the guniea pig with a new model, however I'm seriously thinking of jumping on it. I expect that what I will be doing will require more bit changes/adjustments, and not a lot of board feet going across the same bit. So, getting above table change and height access is a selling point. Hope its accurate.

[CAPPER]

You can check out the FT1700VCEK at LOWES

I think that it is better engineered than the PC 893
And since you are going to use it in a table, you don't have to buy the extra plunge base that comes with combo kits.

[koehler]

Thanks for the heads up, the KM12VC is boxed up to return to Lowes, convenient.

[vaking]

Koehler,
I think you misread my posting.
I have KM12SC - cheaper single speed version of the Hitachi Duo. Both KM12SC and KM12VC are excellent routers for hand use. They are the quitest on the market, lite, easy to handle and powerful enough at the same time. They can be used in a table too but if you plan to use them in the table only - there are more convinient routers. You certainly don't want to combine KM12VC with something like router lift. From the practical perspective - everybody sooner or later needs a router for hand use. You will want to put an edge on countertop or make dovetails. KM12VC is very good for it. I would have kept your existing kit, used it in a table for now and keep in mind that sometime in the future you will want a dedicated table router. I bought KM12SC instead of KM12VC because I plan to use it in hands excusively and routing with 1-1/2" or larger diameter bits in hands is not something I do often. And hand use can benefit from both plunge and fixed bases. By the way, I believe most routers dedicated to table use are plunge routers, not fixed base. The most popular table router here at the forum is another Hitachi - M12V and it is a plunge router. Somehow plunge router construction seems to be more fitting for table mounting.

[JimD]

Mid-sized router kits are normally recommended for a first router. I also think this is the best way to go. I bought a large plunge router for my first serious router (a Ryobi R-500)and it worked for me but then I bought two PC690s which I like better for hand-held work. Before I built my current router table (which contains the motor of my old Ryobi) I used one of my PC690s in the accessory table of my BT3100. I used the PC690 to make over a dozen raised panel doors. I spun a 3 1/2 inch panel raising bit just fine (at reduced speed). I can take maybe one less pass with my bigger router but that is not a big deal. The mid-sized router has enough power to do the rail and stile cuts in one pass.

I know nothing of the Hitachi but if it is decent I think you have what you need for now. After you get some experience, you can decide if you want a bigger or smaller router. Without a plunge base, you can't reasonably make mortises. A plunge base is a bit top heavy for me for dovetail work, however. A fixed base is better for that. With both, you can leave the fixed base in the router table and still have a hand-held router by only moving the base back and forth.

Jim

[CAPPER]

Koehler,

What did you finally do? Let us know.