Got mine too..........

[jkristia]

yep - I got mine too, I couldn't resist the $250 offer at HD so last night I purchased one and immediately assembled it when I got home.
I haven't had it turned on yet, still need to watch the DVD and do the alignment steps, but hopefully this weekend I will have time to try it out.

I asked for the accessory kit when I bought it, but they had no idea what I was talking about. I even told them they used to have a sign on top of the saw on display saying $99, and still they couldn’t help me. So I guess I would either have to order it directly from Ryobi or do without.

Can't wait to get started.
Jesper

[gad5264]

Welcome aborad, paint the red line and make some sawdust.

[gmack5]

Welcome jkristia,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding one, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" shown in the link below.
http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=12490
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[leehljp]

Welcome Jesper. Join in the fun here and let us see some of your work!

[jkristia]

quote:Originally posted by leehljp

Welcome Jesper. Join in the fun here and let us see some of your work!

I think it will be a while before I have anything good enough to show, but thanks

[mater]

Welcome to the forum Jesper. Glad you joined the group.

[Ken Weaver]

Welcom aboard Jesper - I wouldn't hurry about the accessory kit, do a query and you'll find that most do without quite well. Mkae sawdust, have fun, and be safe!

[kgworkman]

Oh yea, the DVD! Mine didn't have it. I thought maybe the instruction book was old, or wrong and that they didn't include it anymore. I'll have to call them up and request it.

Mine is all fully assembled now. Tonight...the featherbaord!

[Wood_workur]

Welcome! Hafe fun, and Be safe. I would also skip on the acessory kit.

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Jesper!

[bigstick509]

To the best forums on the net.

[jkristia]

according to the dvd, when you do bevel rip cut, the fence should always be on the left side, I assume it is for safety reasons so you don't have to remove the blade guard, and to prevent the stock from getting stuck (kickback). Is this correct, or is there another reason for why the fence should be on the left side?.
They also mention a wood insert - but I don't really see why that is neccessary.


Jesper

[monte]

Welcome to the group Jesper. The fence is to the left of the blade when doing bevel cuts to avoid binding and kickbacks. This is true for all right tilt saws and the opposite applies for left tilt saws.

[silverfox]

Welcome to the cult, Jesper!
Mike

[kyle.w]

welcome