BT3100 or Delta TS350???

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  • Larry David
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2006
    • 82
    • Maryland.

    #1

    BT3100 or Delta TS350???

    I just bought a BT3100 yesterday afternoon.I ran out to Lowes a few hours later to pick up something and while I was there I saw a Delta TS350 table saw. The Delta has a cast iron table and the saw is very solid overall. I have the 3100 in my garage still in the box and I am tempted to return it to HD and get the Delta. The Delta is $399 but includes a base with 4 wheels so I can move it around easily. The Delta's knobs to raise/lower and to tilt the blade are very smooth to operate, the 3100's knob on the machine at HD made a clicking sound and did not operate quite as smoothly but that's not a big deal. The Delta does not have a place to mount a router but from what I read on this website a seperate router table is by far the better way to go. The 3100 does have better rip capacity left amd right. I know this is a website for the 3100 but the Delta seems like a very nice saw as well and more expensive. Any thoughts??? Thanks
  • Hoover
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2003
    • 1273
    • USA.

    #2
    The Delta TS350 has the following features(?)
    1) 2 7/16 depth of cut
    2) 27" to the right of the blade cutting
    3) dust collection(?) need to install hood underneath for any
    hope of collecting sawdust
    4) saw is a direct drive
    5) 1 HP motor
    6) iffy quality fence

    Enuff said
    No good deed goes unpunished

    Comment

    • os1kne
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2003
      • 901
      • Atlanta, GA
      • BT3100

      #3
      I seriously considered the Delta TS350 before I bought the BT3100. I do like the cast iron table better, but the fence didn't seem to be nearly as good as the BT3100. I also like the blade guard on the BT3100 better than the TS350. To me, the BT3100 seemed to be an all around better tool and was less expensive to boot. That said, the Delta isn't bad - I just think that there are better options for about the same money or less.

      If you are set on cast iron, look for the Jet TS deals at Lowe's, I saw one recently with a full size table (a bit larger than the TS350) for $350. You may want to check out the Grizzly saws also.

      Good luck.
      Bill

      Comment

      • leehljp
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 8804
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #4
        Direct drive saws are much more geared to job site than precision cutting. In my opinion, the two saws are not in the same category except near in price. Job site ruggedness/tuffness versus precision and versatility at an inexpensive price.

        Both are mobile to some extent, but in different ways - BT is good for in shop moving around; 350 - pickup and job site mobility. The 350 will handle the roughness better because of its cast iron.

        Cast iron "top of the line" contractors saws and even Unisaws are tough too, but they are made more for precision cutting. While their cast iron tops will handle the dropped 3/4 plywood sheet or 4x4 without flenching, they are just as delicate when it comes to banging or dropping something on the fence, raised blade, or guard.

        If you really are drawn to cast iron, you might enjoy the BT for a little while, but inside, you probably will be wishing for cast iron. For people like this, the BT is a good interim saw and it can bring a good return on the money when selling - if parted out, or whole on ebay.

        Beware of a false preception: cast iron = better. Not always and then only in certain areas. Precision comes from the design, manufacturing and end user, not the cast iron. Toughness does come more from cast iron. The 350 is that. But direct drives are not yet known for their precision.

        IMHO, there are much better cast iron TSs out there for around $200/$300 more that have better design quality with the weight and toughness of the cast iron.

        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment

        • Larry David
          Forum Newbie
          • Jan 2006
          • 82
          • Maryland.

          #5
          I have committed to staying with the BT3100 thanks to the replies on this thread, reading other threads and all the help and support this website could potentially provide. I even went to HD this morning and ordered/bought the Dual Slot Miter Table, part# 4060310 so I can use a "regular" type of miter guage if I want to. I liked the quick fold table (part# 4730310), but maybe I'll order that later. The tool guy at HD showed me all the available accessories for the 3100....I'm going to get into more trouble now....

          What is the accessory table (part# 4080300)?

          Also, I went to Sears and bought their mobile base so I can move the saw around easier. I read that the casters for the 3100 that comes with the accessory kit aren't that great so I'll give the craftsman mobile base a try.

          Comment

          • LarryG
            The Full Monte
            • May 2004
            • 6693
            • Off The Back
            • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

            #6
            quote:Originally posted by Larry David

            What is the accessory table (part# 4080300)?
            Unless there's some other part with the same name, the accessory table is the one that comes with the saw and has the router mounting holes in it.

            I'll add my word of Welcome! and BTW would like to ask ... are you deliberately using a small, blue font in your posts? NBD if you are; I recently started using Firefox and sometimes see odd stuff I never saw with IE6 and am just wondering if this is one of them.
            Larry

            Comment

            • Wood_workur
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2005
              • 1914
              • Ohio
              • Ryobi bt3100-1

              #7
              Welcome!

              I too face the same delima, and haven't regretted the bt3100 oone bit. I wanthed cast iron too, but the aluminum is fine for me. Rember, If you don't like it, you return it.
              Alex

              Comment

              • cwsmith
                Veteran Member
                • Dec 2005
                • 2812
                • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                • BT3100-1

                #8
                I went the other way with regard to "cast iron". Looking at the many other forums and discussions, cast iron looked like it would be a maintenance problem for me. Yes, given it's weight and bulk, it gives the impression of better quality; but, like everything else, it can be warped, not cured properly, etc. My choice was the BT3100 because of it's quality, price, performance and precision... and especially because of the support from this forum. Aluminum is much easier to maintain and will hold it's "good looks" a lot longer than cast iron (especially if it's in a garage-type workshop). For me, I don't need to spend more time polishing my table top than I do using it.

                My two-cents,

                CWS
                Think it Through Before You Do!

                Comment

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