Bench Top

[ferrell]

I have started building my work bench too. I understand that the work bench needs to be heavy but turning 2x4 on end seemed a little excessive. since 2x4's have rounded edges which don't make a good flat surface. I decided to rip 2x4 right down the middle and then turn them cut edge up. I'm having binding problems making these 6+ foot rips (i think I need featherboards). I am very close to just gluing the 2x4 up as is and then putting a hardwood plywood top on top of the 2x4's.

any suggestions on the binding problems I have? I think a set of featherboards would fix the problem. I'm a newbie and I'm trying to get my shop set up first before getting all these jigs and accessories.

other options: I have a brand new biscuit joiner, I have a "glueup" router bit, neither of these will fix the rounded edges on those 2x4's though. I really dont want to wear out my blade ripping a 1/4" off of each edge of some 10 - 2x4's

I purchased 2 of the $30 Grizzly vises http://www.grizzly.com/products/H7788 I have not recieved them yet. I will post back and let you know how they look. The package weighs 47 pounds so I dont think these will be crappy like the HF clamps I almost bought.

[scorrpio]

A small observation: if I were making my own top from 2x4's, I would probably select several boards, and drill the dog holes in them before assembly. A 2x4 is 1.5" thick, so there should be no problem drilling 3/4" holes through them. I would set the drill press fence 3/4" from drill centerpint, and affixed a short length of 3/4" dowel to the side - to maintain distance between holes. Then use a forstner to drill a row of holes that were perfectly vertical, perfectly spaced, and perfectly in line. I'd use the dowel section as stop block for drilling the first hole. Then, I'd place the just-drilled hole over the dowel to drill each subsequent hole.

[Jaden]

A small observation: if I were making my own top from 2x4's, I would probably select several boards, and drill the dog holes in them before assembly. A 2x4 is 1.5" thick, so there should be no problem drilling 3/4" holes through them. I would set the drill press fence 3/4" from drill centerpint, and affixed a short length of 3/4" dowel to the side - to maintain distance between holes. Then use a forstner to drill a row of holes that were perfectly vertical, perfectly spaced, and perfectly in line. I'd use the dowel section as stop block for drilling the first hole. Then, I'd place the just-drilled hole over the dowel to drill each subsequent hole.

Instead of taking several 2x4 and pre-drilling the dog holes, you might consider using a 4x4 for the strength.........

[Tom Miller]

I have started building my work bench too. I understand that the work bench needs to be heavy but turning 2x4 on end seemed a little excessive.

Not at all, considering you'll probably have to mill it down to less than 3" thickness just to square it up. Given the lighter weight of the wood, that's reasonable.

since 2x4's have rounded edges which don't make a good flat surface.

You'd want to mill that off. You'll end up milling most of the roundover just getting your stock flat and square.

I decided to rip 2x4 right down the middle and then turn them cut edge up. I'm having binding problems making these 6+ foot rips (i think I need featherboards).

IMHO, ripping them down the middle is going to make your stock too thin. You should be using featherboards, and especially the riving knife or some type of splitter. Dimensional lumber is notorious for releasing internal stress while ripping.

I really dont want to wear out my blade ripping a 1/4" off of each edge of some 10 - 2x4's.

I wouldn't start worrying until your 100th bench. You'll be spending time keeping the blade clean of pitch, though.

Regards,
Tom

[gimpy]

Talking about using biscuits and splines to keep the top flat, I just read an article in a magazine about that same thing (I looked but couldn't find the article-too many magazines laying around).

As I recall, they used a router and a slot bit then inserted splines much like what has been discussed here.

Personally, I'm in the process of finishing up a workbench, but took the somewhat easier option of making it out of plywood and mdf top. Hopefully will get it finished this weekend (the magazine article said it was a weekend project--been about 5 weekends for me, though). Well, it was supposed to have been easier.

Yours looks really nice, by the way. Good job.

Frank

[SHADOWFOX]

Great job on the bench top!! DIY network is actually showing the ultimate workshop this week and they showed assembly of a workbench made out of pine and the benchtop is similar to yours.. I have it on Tivo so that I can go back to it when putting together my very first workbench.

[ezland00]

Workbench plan from lowes.com

Here is a plan i found from lowes.comLink

I have couple questions, i have attached a picture, is that how you put the 2x4's togather? the line between each 2x4's are 3" screws.
i want to have a perfect flat work table. what's the best way to do that. i know using belt sander won't do it.

thank you
EZ

[scorrpio]

Err, look at that picture carefully. Every third line is not crossed by any screws. Means no screws are holding 3rd board to 4th or 6th to 7th etc.

I have to confess that I cheated. I ordered a Grizzly hard maple laminate top for about $200.

[sacherjj]

I went with a solid MDF core door for my workbench top, because it is pretty straight and a whole bunch less work. Do you have a garage or driveway that is straight enough to use as a reference for assembly? I would probably use biscuits to try to get everything aligned as good as possible. I would modify one thing in that design on the bottom rails. Either do two cuts on the table saw to make a notch or glue and screw a 2x2 flush with the bottom of those rails, to put in some shelves. This adds extra storage and the things you store down there helps weight down the bench and keep it from moving.

[darrellcraig]

I read somewhere online where someone built a glue-up benchtop and took it to their local lumberyard/cabinet/millwork shop and had them run it thru a wide drum sander or planer to mill to flat. Recall it cost $35. I'm thinking about trying that.

[jdschulteis]

[. . .]
i want to have a perfect flat work table. what's the best way to do that. i know using belt sander won't do it.

thank you
EZ

You can flatten a workbench top with a router:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/sto...y/data/408.xml

Can't find my link on how to do it with hand planes.

The "EZ" way probably is to find a place that will run it through a wide belt sander. My local hardwood dealer charges $1.50 a minute.