Beginners choice for router set up

[Chadi]

Hey everyone. Since I've bought my 3100 I've been on this forum every day. Been searching for router advice but still can't seem to determine the direction I should take. I am a beginner at wood working but have some projects around the house that will need a router table. I have an old craftsman router (probably from the mid 80's) but really need a table. I don't know if I should get a dedicated router table (looking at the $100 Ryobi table w/router) or buy the accessory kit for the saw. The only thing I'm concerned about on the accessory table is fitting my router and how much depth control I have with the bits (I also would like to ensure I can fit a panel raising bit). I've also thought of building a router bench top for the saw but would probably end up spending more than the stand alone table. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,

Chadi

[dlminehart]

Chadi, I'd recommend picking up a book on routers. Hylton's 'Woodworking with the Router' is a good one. He has examples of homemade tables from extremely simple to very complex. Some of the best router experts can do wonders with simple tables. A common method amongst forum members is to attach a MDF table to the BT3 with a cutout for a router plate. A fence is then made to attach to the saw's fence. For routing in a table, you can use a router that's fairly heavy and powerful. Most folks seem to get two, one for table and one (often lighter) for hand use.

[Wood_workur]

I wouldn't use the ryobi one or the one in the acessory table. they both limit your depth of cut. I would do as David sugessted

[monte]

Consider making your own router table. You can have all of the features you want then.

[greencat]

I'm in the same boat as Chadi. What do you think about preformed counter tops instead of the MDF as a base. The local Menards has scraps and I would cut off the backsplash. Will the particle board hold up as a table?

[LarryG]

I second David's suggestion for the Hylton/Matlack book: this title is virtually required reading for anyone who owns a router, and especially a beginner. HOWEVER there is an updated edition coming in March so you might want to wait for that.

Mounting a router in the BT's accessory table is okay but not ideal. Some use it just long enough to help build themselves a standalone router table, and I think that's an excellent strategy. You can also continue to use the BT mount for a secondary router, for easy cuts like roundovers (this is what I do).

The BT accessory table will not accept a horizontal panel-raising bit; the hole isn't big enough. It will accept a vertical one, though.

[Chadi]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try to build my own. I'll send pics when complete.

[Flyingscooter]

I went with the Ryobi Plunge router, 99.00 at HD and the Ryobi table, also 99.00. I've been very pleased with both.

I will eventually go with a fixed router for the table and use the plunge for other projects, cutting/routing large circles and such.
The change-outs can be a bit time consuming.

[vaking]

My 2 cents:
Mounting router into accesory table is the easiest thing to do if you need a table. If you have aluminum plate - you will have it mounted in an hour. If not - make a plate off plywood, there are plans here at the site somewhere if you need plans. Router in accessory table is at least as good as any table you can buy on a small budget, say under $150 for the table only without a router. You will need to make a good fence but you will need that anyway with any table. The next step forward will be to make your own table and you should do that after you learn what table routing is about and what features are important to you. At that stage you will know better than looking at RYOBI or Mastercraft tables.

[Knottscott]

For spinning horizontal panel bits you'll want to be sure you have variable speed control on the router. Spinning the large bits at high speed is dangerous. The Milwaukee 5616 is ~ $170 delivered from Amazon, which is more than you were originally looking to spend, but it not only has VS, it's also about the most powerful thing near it's price range, and is small enough for hand routing too.

I'd build my own RT. It's simple, cheaper, and you can customize it to what you want.

[Flyingscooter]

After reading these, i will have to consider making my own router table.

[Napoleon]

I have this book... http://www.routerlady.com/book.asp I'd recomend it, notnecessarily over the other ones, but it does show how to build a very versitlal router tabel!
Mark

[cwsmith]

If one of the requirements you have is being able to use a panel raising bit, you immediately eliminate the Ryobi R162RT Router/Table combo as it is their cheapest 1/4" collet router. I have the earlier R161 Combo and I do like the table, but it has it's limits.

As previously mentioned, you really need to pickup a book or two and educate yourself before you waste money (as I did) buying a router and table base on what little I knew at the time.

Bottom line is you should buy a variable speed router with a 1/2 inch collet. Using a panel raising bit will require the maximum strength offered by the 1/2 diameter shaft and likewise, you'll probably need to slow the router down a bit.

Also, buy the best router that you can afford. This is not a place where you want to scrimp. Milwaukie and Porter-Cable are highly reputable. The Porter-Cable router base design has become the standard by which most templates and insert guides are made. Probably $200 or more should be your target for price.

Regarding the router table, like suggested, build your own and/or purchase components to make this an admirable project. Again, if you're looking a panel raising, you'll want something very stable and large enough to handle a project like cabinet doors.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[WEG]

Hi Greencat;
I sent you an email about the use of a counter top.
WEG

[greencat]

quote:Originally posted by WEG

Hi Greencat;
I sent you an email about the use of a counter top.
WEG

Thanks