Which benchtop bandsaw

[enutees]

I'm looking at the benchtop bandsaws available and they all look pretty similar to me. I'm unable to buy one of the big boys due to limited space. I'm not opposed to spending a little more to get something nice.

Not sure what to look for and looking for brand/model recommendations.

Thanks

[Scottydont]

If I were to concider and benchtop bandsaw I would look at the Rikon or the maybe the Craftsman. They both have some nice big boy features. Stay away from the Delta and Ryobi mini's.


http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5383

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT

[cwsmith]

I looked at the Delta, Tradesman, and the Ryobi and decided on the Ryobi BS902. At $99 it has some nice features the others didn't, like the tracking window, blade tension release lever, uupper and lower wheel brushes. It also has a fence and worklight. Upper and lower blade guides are easily adjustable and the rack and pinion blade guard works nicely.

The Sears (Rikon?) unit that was mentioned looks pretty nice, but I haven't seen it in the stores yet. I noticed that it's height adjustment has almost a full inch over the others, including the Ryobi. But frankly, at 1/3 HP I don't see that it has enough power to use the additional height. The Ryobi is only slightly more than 1/3 Hp, but it bogs down on oak if it's more than a couple of inches thick, even with a new blade.

I've had the Ryobi now for two years and I've found it to be an excellent bandsaw to learn with. I've had no problems. The table is adequate for most jobs and I've even resawn 2x4x8 without difficulty. Like all bandsaw, you've got to have things adjusted correctly and understand that the "blade" makes all the difference in the world.

CWS

[drumpriest]

I would agree. The popular opinion will probably be none. Save your money, buy a nice jig saw, etc...

If you are set on getting a benchtop bandsaw, the rikon and the craftsman are the best that I've seen.

[gjat]

If you're in the tampa area, I have a decent Craftsman bandsaw i'd sell. They are handier than a scroll or jig saw if you aren't doing 'inside a circle' cut, in which case a file and jig saw can help you out if it isn't too delicate. You can't approach the controllability of a band saw with a jig-saw or a cheap scroll saw.

[norwegianwoodworker]

Below is my Amazon.com review of the Delta Shopmaster BS 100 9" bandsaw. The problems I have found are not so much in the saw itself, but in how you use it and set it up. It is a small saw, and it has certain limitations, so will all small bandsaws. New guideblocks (coolblocks) and bandsaw blades are a must. I use Timberwolf.

My 2 cents...

Joern.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +

I have had my BS100 Shopmaster for 4 years now, and I am a very satisfied user. I feel I have enough experience with the saw to see its shortcomings and virtues. It IS a great saw when you know and accept its limitations which are: (some can be overcome...)

1) Saw is designed and made for small scale woodworking. Period.
2) Low "power" for resawing or cutting thick hardwood stock (not designed for this, see 1).)
3) Blade wander can be a problem if saw used right out of the box with original guides and original blade (and in general, especially when using 1/4" blade).
4) This saw requires high quality blades to perform its best (not found in ordinary hardware stores).
5) Its small table is not sturdy enough for large, heavy workpieces, but will do for smaller pieces. (I have however used my saw for ripping 6'long 1 1/2" birch into smaller, straight strips, using a roller stand).
6) The saw is not ready to go out of the box - will require tuning for best performance.

I believe most of the problems people encounter with this saw are due to lack of experience with bandsaws because the 9" Delta is often their first saw. Problems are related to:

1) how to use the saw in general (use the saw for what it was intended for; some jobs are better done on other machines; some jobs are TOO BIG for this saw etc etc)
2) proper selection of blade for the job at hand as well as proper tensioning the blade.
3) set-up and tuning of the saw including wheel alignment, guide set up etc.
4) not knowing that there are different quality blades out there. Some are cheap, some are expensive - some are good, some are bad. You probably wouldn't want to buy the cheapest brand tires for your Porsche, right?
5) No gauge or guide can be used with any powertool without setting it up and checking, resetting and rechecking. So it goes with this bandsaw. The miter gauge and fence will have to be corrected for blade drift as for any other bandsaw on the market.

This review is rather long, but I think the saw deserves a thorough review to address some of the issues typical to many bandsaws, not only this 9" Delta. A bandsaw is more of a delicate "cutting instrument" than a cutting machine and requires tuning for top performance... Some experience is required to master the band saw to get the most out of it as with any instrument.

I don't have space for a large bandsaw, and I don't need the power of one either. If I were to buy another band saw, it would only be because I would be scaling up my woodworking to large pieces or heavy resawing, or to get another machine and set it up for a specialized task for one blade only... I would still keep my 9" Delta. It is too good of a saw to give away (read: sell used for cheap).

The saw will work pretty much out of the box, but if you don't take the time to tune it properly, you will most likely be disappointed. Realize that this is not a saw made for heavy resawing (though resawing of stock can be done using a proper blade). It is a small, quiet benchtop saw suited for small scale woodworking and this it can do very well. And its worklight is very handy.

Many of the "shortcomings" of a small saw like this can be overcome by tuning the wheels and setting the saw up properly e.g. like suggested in the Bandsaw Handbook by Mark Duginske or The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird. Both are highly recommended. Before you buy any bandsaw, go through either of these two books and learn how to set up a band saw properly, including using the mitre gauge and setting the saw up for perfect mitre cuts and how to rip and resaw. This will also help you realize that straight cuts, resawing etc does require certain techniques whether you have a 9" Delta or a 36" RotoMatic industrial band saw with 2" blade. Both books will show you how to make an adjustable rip fence and other jigs helping you getting the most out of any bandsaw.

How to maximize its performance (or the performance of ANY bandsaw for that matter):

1) Throw away the blade that came with the saw, and buy a high quality blade e.g. Timberwolf. For resawing (yes - it can be done!) I use a 1/2" Woodslicer for resawing or ripping stock for boxmaking: Koa, oak, rosewood, maple etc. Works great, but feed slowly and the saw will not stall! The blade is rather expensive, but worth any penny if you need to resaw or do long rip cuts using this bandsaw. It also has a thin kerf so you won't overtension the saw. This blade will also make it easy to cut straight. Using the original blade or Delta's own blade or any other "regular" blades found in ordinary hardware stores WILL be a disappointment on this saw. I have never found Delta's own blades to be satisfying, but for somebody else, they might do. (Sorry Delta!)

2) Replace the guideblocks with Coolblocks (Woodcraft, Rockler etc). If you can't find the right size, buy oversize and file/grind it to fit (that is what I did). These will support and help clean and lubricate the blade. You could also make your own hardwood guides, but I found the Coolblocks to be the best. These guideblocks will also help support the blade for cutting curves.

3) Tune the saw when you have a high quality blade and coolblocks for your saw. Saw will run smoother, quieter and have more of its power available for sawing after the tuning. Tuning will also help stabilize the blade and avoid drift to the left or right. With proper setup, this saw IS capable of cutting straight! And vibration can mostly be eliminated by balancing and truing wheels! The saw is in itself very light and won't "absorb" or dampen the vibration as well as a large, cast iron machine. Mounting it to a heavy base is also advised.

4) Use slow feedrates and be gentle - it is a delicate machine - don't force-feed it.

5) Use the correct blade for the job. Don't use an 1/8" or 1/4" 14 TPI blade for resawing/ripping, and don't use the 3 TPI blade for cutting intricate patterns 1/8" thick stock....

6) Correct tensioning of the saw blade as well as proper wheel alignment/adjustment will avoid blade coming off the wheel by itself. A rough cutting technique can also cause the blade to come off.

7) Proper maintenance will keep the saw in top shape....

I would also suggest replacing the throatplate with one you make yourself (discussed in the books mentioned earlier).

The saw can very well handle a high quality 1/8" blade, but only after coolblocks and tuning. Don't even bother with 1/8" blade on a stock 9". (Others might disagree here.) Be aware that setting up the saw with an 1/8" blade is a little tricky until you learn how to prepare the saw for it.


I will rate this saw 5 stars. One star could have been taken away because if the saw had been equipped with a high quality blade and guide blocks, many problems would have been gone!!!! But then again, most bandsaws on the market are delivered with inferior blades and guides anyway. Recommended upgrades (Coolblocks, good blade) is about $35, and will greatly improve the performance. If you decide to buy this saw, buy one or the other of the recommended books mentioned as well. They will become your best manual and guide whether it is for tuning and setup, choosing the right blade or ideas for small projects!

[norwegianwoodworker]

Looking at the Sears and Rikon mentioned above, they seem to be two attractive machines. If I were to buy a new benchtop today, I would certainly consider one of these.

Joern

[lcm1947]

I have 9 inch Roybi now for about 1 1/2 years and am very pleased with it although I'd love to have a 14 inch. But nothing wrong with the tool itself. I actually love the little thing but it is limited as far as cutting size wise. It seems I always need just an inch or two more cutting range. If that's all you can afford though then it's a darn good little BS and I buy one again if couldn't afford a larger 14 inch. It cuts beauiful for me.

[Knottscott]

I've had the Ryobi BS900 for about 3 years now. It's been ok and worth the money. It has some obvious limitations...mainly capacity and weight. I've had no trouble cutting through full height hard maple with the right blade. The stock blade wasn't good. It vibrates a bit and doesn't have the feel of a high quality tool, but it works. It fit the space and budget constraints at teh time.

There are some better choices on the market now that I'd have considered spending more money on...namely the Rikon or Craftsman.

http://www.epinions.com/content_61257059972

[cwsmith]

I finally got an opportunity to look at the new Craftsman/Ricon benchtop bandsaw today. At the current sale price of $139.00, that's one sweet little machine. Of course seeing it sitting on the display bench doesn't tell me how it will run, but it unquestionably has some "big" saw features, like the cast iron table, sheet steel covers (separate upper and lower too), ball bearing blade guides and steel body. I was impressed.

Of course I still like my Ryobi BS902, but if I were to do it again, I think I'd want to give this little Craftsman a try.

I also took a close look at their new 14-inch which also appears to be made by Ricon. Sort of made me drowl a bit. 2-speed, 1 hp, good-sized cast iron table, study looking trunions and well-built welded steel body with a full 8-inch cutting depth. Also noticed that it balanced cast iron wheels, full-ballbearing guides and several other nice features. At almost $500, it appears to be a very well built machine. Is there anyone here who has any experience with this unit (Ricon or Craftsman badged)?

CWS

[kyle.w]

Rikon looks like it is a nice one but it is a little high on price.

[drumpriest]

cw, I own the 14" craftsman / Rikon saw. I've done limited work with it so far (curvy stuff), but it's performed well thus far.

[PineTar]

I have a bigger saw, but was advised (and I agree) to pitch the stock blade and go to a 3 teeth/inch blade. It seems counter intuitive, but the coarser blade gives you smoother cuts and lasts longer. I have 'em made up by the guys who sharpen my blades and they're cheap and work as well as the expensive ones. The key is having them grind the weld smooth so you don't get blade jump and my guys are very conscientious. The bandsaw is a good tool that I use a lot 'cause it saves me a lot of wood.
PineTar.

[lkazista]

quote:Originally posted by kyle.w

Rikon looks like it is a nice one but it is a little high on price.

This is the saw on sale for $119 at Woodcraft?! Isn't it?

[jrnewhall]

I've been hanging out reading posts here for a few months since my 2yr old BT3100's lift became very hard to work. Thanks to all of the posts here - a good cleaning and a lot of candle wax and it's better than new.

I just picked up the Craftsman version of this saw (I think it's really a Yukon branded as a Craftsman - I found it lookin on amazon for 10" BSs) I love it. Cuts like butter. Currently priced at $139. The only things I have found different from the Rikon, which I almost bought, is a much better table w/fence and about an inch taller cutting capacity (blade is 3" longer). I think it is worth the exttra $20.

Thanks to everyone for all the great posts. I have painted the red line. I need to stay out of the bargain alerts before I go broke (Craftsman router fence, Herc-u-lift...) Project soon to be in process - mini cyclone.

~JRN