Assembly Complete, now Alignment.

[Kirby Krieger]

Hi. First, thanks for all the good comments, articles, and help available here. Made my purchase not only easy, but a pleasure as I am sure I got the right saw (and at a great price). I have read the other recent threads about assembly -- I have painted the red line -- I will not put silicone on the table top! I am a complete newbie, so bear with me.

Two alignment Q's:

One: My SMT is a very little bit (just under 1 mm) higher than the saw table and the accessory table. Is this normal? What do you do to cut c. 4" wide pieces? They are wide enough to straddle both the table base and the SMT, but not wide enough to sit comfortably flat on the SMT, and so they angle down slightly with a small part on the slightly higher SMT and and the rest on the saw table. When pieces are longer, they sit flat on the SMT and against the fence -- but then they float that little bit above the saw table.

Two: I'm having trouble adjusting the rip fence. It is slightly closer to the rear edge of the blade. How do the screws on top of the fence work?

Bonus: The manual and the DVD instruct me to just lightly push the four plastic clamps to fix the SMT in position. I think the phrase is "push them to level" or something like that. I have to push them c. 20 degrees below level. The plastic cam hold OK. Does one ever push the clamps all the way down? They "snap" into place as the cam rides over a high point and then the rail sits comfortably against a flat on the cam.

Thanks!

[scorrpio]

SMT being slightly higher is by design, so that whatever you cut using it does not drag on the table. Some recommend removing thin pieces of plastic off the SMT base rails. Some things you might do:
1. Get the miter fence clamp accessory. I found mine on Ebay for $20 (which includes shipping). There is currently one offered there for $20 + $6 shipping. Use it to clamp the piece you cut securely to SMT so it doesn't tilt.

Another way is to put the accessory table between the saw and SMT, set the miter fence as far as it can go to the right, (you might still have to extend it by clamping a board to it), and slide the piece on the accessory table by moving the SMT. You will need to find a way to secure the workpiece cause you don't want your fingers that close to the blade.

Speaking of the clamps - on my BT, I can't even get tham to sit 'level'. When I push them down, they positively snap all the way down, locking the base. I figure that is fine.

[leehljp]

The clamps are not suppsed to snap downward all the way. Just until they are good and snug. I realize that "snug" is relative to everyone's personal opinion, but all the way down is usually using too much force. It can cause the metal tabs that hold plastic levers to bend. If this is the case, too much pressure has been applied. Scorrpio, are the metal tabs "level" - that hold the plastic levers? I haven't heard of people clamping all the way down.

By the way, while on the subject of "pushing all the way down" or NOT, the fence handle should not be pushed all the way down either, just snug slightly below horizontal.

[scorrpio]

I definitely don't apply excessive force. I push the tabs down lightly with one finger. To compare, I think that the force I apply would not be enough to trip a single-pole circuit breaker. In fact, the tabs action seems very similar to a circuit breaker - if not pushed enough, they bounce back - but as soon as a certain threshold is reached, they snap down and lock. My BT is pretty new - only a couple months - maybe Ryobi revised the design of these tabs?

[leehljp]

If you are only applying the little bit of pressure, I would not worry about it. But usually they are adjusted from the factory to the point that they are just below horizontal, or maybe a tad more when snug.

[LarryG]

My saw's (BT3100-1) SMT levers also fold all the way down against the rail, using an amount of force I would in no way call excessive. I wouldn't say that they "snap" into position ... there's just a slight easing of pressure as they pass the over-center point. The total effort required is light enough that I use only my thumb to fold the lever down.

[Kirby Krieger]

Thanks for the replies. [^]

Slightly higher SMT surface: understood.
Adjusting rip fence using two top bolts: no comments?

Lock SMT position on rails using tabs: still unclear. My tabs have a lever and a small eccentrically mounted cam with a small "flat" just past the "over-center" point. Should they be adjusted to lock to the rails under the pressure of the "over-center" point, or should they be adjusted to lock to the rails _past_ the over-center point with the flat of the cam flat against the rail track? In the first case a little pressure is used, and the lever holds; in the second case a little more pressure is used, the tab clicks into place, and the lever grabs.

Thanks!

[scorrpio]

Looks like on the newer BT3100-1, clicking the tab in place is the way.

As to adjusting the fence, this is from the manual (Maintenance section):
If the dimensions are not the same, loosen the two screws on the face and align it.

Sounds fairly straightforward to me! My recommendation would be to loosen the screws just a little and then tap the fence into alignment.

[Kirby Krieger]

quote:Originally posted by scorrpio

Looks like on the newer BT3100-1, clicking the tab in place is the way.

This is correct. I reviewed the DVD, and although they instruct to not press the tabs "all the way down", it is clear from the video that one is to push them down until the flats on the cams line up with the rails. Thanks.

[leehljp]

I have a BT 3000 and a 3100. I also have a third SMT table (came from a 3000) that I bought from a forum member and use on my 3100 at times. None of those SMTs locking tabs on mine saws go all the way down.

I am glad that all of you brought this up. Seems like it is not a problem.