Finishing Help

[tbibler]

When I apply my finish, no matter how careful, I always seem to end up with microscopic particles all over my project. Can anyone shed any light on what I may be doing wrong? Here is my setup:

1. Lately, I've been using Min Wax Polyshades (the Pecan Satin nicely matches the 100 year old wood flooring in our house)
2. I sand (in my shop, in the basement) up to 220 grit
3. I wipe the entire project off with tack cloth
4. I carry project to my garage
5. I wipe off again with one of those micro-particle rags
6. Apply first coat, rub down with steel wool in between coats. I use a clean brush that is only used for stains, and always pour the stain into a clean plastic container, and never dip the brush into the can of stain (burned by that before). I throw away any excess, never put it back into the can.

The particles seemed to be less and less after each coat, so I'm thinking the wood must not be completely clean prior to the first coat.

I am relatively new to WW. My last 2 projects I did a bang up job, but after the finishing process, was left disappointed. If anyone has any tips, I would appreciate it.

[lrogers]

Try this, you'll love it. First, dump the polyshades and just stain your project with the regular minwax stains. The poly shades give you very limited control.
You are preping just like do, so you are okay there.
Take a small can of poly, pour it into a bigger, air tight can and add an equall amount of mineral spirits or naptha (naptha for faster dry times). After you are satisfied with color, pour some of the thinned poly in a container (seal your bigger can right away). I like to use the little aluminum pie plates like pot-pies come in. Using a link free rag, wipe the poly on (be sure you are wearing disposable gloves). Old cotton t-shirts & panties work great. I cut mine into about 3" squares. The thin coat of poly is self leveling and dries pretty quick and is much less likely to run or sag. The only down side is that you need to put on more coats. I usually go from 5-8 coats with a VERY light rub down using 0000 steel wool between coats followed by another swipe with tack rag.
Since I tried this method, I have not used any other. I'll admit, I was unsure the first time I read about it here, but it sure makes for a nice finish.

[JimD]

I don't know what you are looking at and calling microscopic particles but it is normal to have imperfections in the surface after finishing for a variety of reasons. You may get dust settling before the finish dries, you may not put it on perfectly evenly, the grain may raise a little, something may fall into your finish (or be in the container when you pour the finish in). If you want a perfectly flat surface on your project, you need to put on plenty of finish and then sand it flat and then polish it to the desired sheen. For this, you would need to let the MinWax polyshades dry for a week or more so that when you sand it the result is dust (not rolled up bits of finish). You start with 220 or finer and work up from there. Final polishing for high gloss is rottenstone. If you go thorugh the finish you get to start again.

If you spray on the finish under very controlled conditions, you may be able to get a wet enough coat on a horizontal surface to eliminate the surface flaws but I do not think you can get to a perfect gloss surface with a brush or by wiping on (except perhaps for a french polish technique). I usually use oak and then the finish imperfections are less visible. On maple or cherry, I typically live with it. An oil finish that penetrates will not show these imperfections because there isn't enough gloss. The glossier the finish, the more visible the imperfections.

Jim

[drunkcat]

Try running a magnet over it after you do the steel wool and see what you pick up!

S

[Jim Boyd]

I'm not a big poly fan but Larry describes they way I prefer if I have to use poly. I have never heard anyone say anything good about poly shades, maybe it is because of the funky colored cans

[Jim-Iowa]

This thread makes me wonder, Poly won`t cure properly in cold as I understand it?? would Shellac or Laquer that cures through evaporation of the carrier be a better choice at lower temperatures?