Getting started with my pocket hole jig

[drumpriest]

This past weekend I bought my first pocket hole jig. I have a bunch of face frames to do, and felt that this jig would make that much easier than dowelling or mortise and tenon.

I have the pocket rocket jig, after I made a center mark on the jig (dunno why they didn't think to put one on it), it's a breeze to setup and cut the pockets. The spacing is a little close to the edge for 1.5" stuff, which caused a blowout of one of the joints when I put it together on my test run frame. That frame was out of poplar, any idea if oak will be as easily split using pocket screws? Self tapping was the problem, of course.

Another question for all of you is how do you ensure that your joint will be face aligned?? I have been trying a variety of clamping methods, and sometimes it comes out great, others not.

Thanks for any information,

[monte]

Did you get a set of these? They help a lot to get the face frames aligned.

[drumpriest]

Monte, yeah I have the clamp. I think I am overdriving the screws. Even though it's clamped it still pulls things out of alignment.

[wassaw998]

I clamp mine on the DP table, using one of those DP clamps (looks very much like the pic Monte has above). So the faces are flat on the DP table - I also drill the pilot holes on the DP table using the same clamp. Makes for a nice large flat surface. (I use a hand drill to drill the hole and to put in the screws, the DP table is only used for the table!). Maybe back off the clutch a bit on your drill also, I have had a few screws strip out on my because I've overtightened them.

[mater]

quote:Originally posted by drumpriest

Monte, yeah I have the clamp. I think I am overdriving the screws. Even though it's clamped it still pulls things out of alignment.

Keith, you don't need to overdrive the screws. When I first got mine a couple of years ago I had the same problem. Just pull them up snug and they will hold and the frame should stay aligned.

[JimD]

There are also both fine and coarse thread screws. The coarse are recommended for softwood and the fine for hardwood. I am not sure where poplar fits within these categories, I know it is a hardwood but it is also pretty soft. With oak, I think you will definitely want the fine thread screws. You might also want to try them in poplar and see if they work better.

Jim

[DonHo]

There are also two type heads on the screws. I've found the larger head is more likely to cause pocket hole to "blow out" if they are over thightend even a little.

DonHo

[drumpriest]

ok, I've done some more playing around. The pan head screws are unfortunately only #6, is that a problem for 3/4" oak?? I have gotten a system down now for the Oak. I Just lay it out on my assembly table, clamp up the joint in my bessey's, then it'll stay together for me to drive the screws, not other clamping scheme seems strong enough.

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

[chief]

This style of clamp works for me.
I think I got it from Penn State...Mike

[RayintheUK]

quote:Originally posted by drumpriest

I have gotten a system down now for the Oak. I Just lay it out on my assembly table, clamp up the joint in my bessey's, then it'll stay together for me to drive the screws, not other clamping scheme seems strong enough.

That's been my experience too, Keith. The butt joint itself needs clamping firmly, otherwise the downward direction of the screws will tend to lift one side. I clamp horizontally to secure the joint, then vertically as well to make sure that the horizontal pressure doesn't cause a "bow" which results in a pop-up. So far, so good!

Ray.

[leehljp]

I have been trying to figure out the problem and finally I see it. I never had a problem with pocket hole jointery. But I see where the problem has come in:

If one thinks in terms of getting the two pieces near enough and letting the screws "pull" it up tight, you will have alignment problems.

A good clamped butt joint in necessary for the pocket hole jig to work properly. If screws were going straight in, there would be no problem. But the angle of the pocket holes will of course change the angle that it pulls, necessitating the need for a good tight (clamped) butt joint before tightening the pocket hole screws.

[drumpriest]

Lee, clamping in both directions seems to have solved my issue. I think Ray is correct though, if you keep driving the screw, because of its downward vector, it will keep eating wood, and could misalign the faces. This happens as the head of the screw mills out the pocket, which isn't too hard in softer woods.

I think with my new clamping strategy that I won't have any problems with making hardwood face frames.

Thanks to all who posted, this has been very enlightening.

[fredg50]

I bought the Kreg 2000 at a wood show a couple of years ago and they threw in a instruction video on tips and techniques and it was really helpful. Check their web site. They have several videos on pocket hole joinery and they are only $9.99. I did not have a problem with the oak but had the same problem with the poplar. I found if I set the clutch on the drill I did not overtighten the screws.