Using molding plane router bits???

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  • cdw
    Forum Newbie
    • Nov 2003
    • 9
    • kegley, wv, USA.

    #1

    Using molding plane router bits???

    Has anyone used any of the molding or architechtural router bits? How difficult is it to compensate for the cut away profile on the out feed side of the router table?
    Ricky Wood
  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #2
    My first thought is an offset fence with the rear section set flush with the bit. I use this setup when I use my flush trim bit to joint edges on boards.
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

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    • leehljp
      The Full Monte
      • Dec 2002
      • 8795
      • Tunica, MS
      • BT3000/3100

      #3
      It is a tad difficult without a bearing guide. I have done a great deal of routing but not until about 4 years ago did I start trying moulding and architectural bits. The main thing for me was to use thick feather board to keep it snug against the fence - both a couple of inches before and after the bit.

      The real problem that I had was the chattering when not using feather boards. On short pieces, you can hold it but on pieces of 4 ft or longer, it sure needed the feather boards.

      I have about 10 moulding and architectural bits of 2 to 3 inches tall, but I haven't used them very much. It looks like I will have to wait until retirement before I will have time to use them like I want too.

      EDITED to clear up some dumb things I wrote above!
      I have several symetrical bits (I like those) and the above works well in many cases. Feather boards work with bits that have a bearing guide in a few situations and I have used it. I didn't write that I have a horizontal router table with feather boards pushing down and from the side. (I use the horzontal router table most of the time.)

      But for vertical, I always made sure the board was wider / taller than the bit so that it would have a flat surface to slide against. I made a jig once that lifted the feather board to the height of the flat surface that was against the fence, and then fed the board carefully.

      I am in the States now and have not used my router table in the last year, as it is in Japan. I sure need it here and just purchased 6 architectural bits to build some book cases and a table here as Christmas presents.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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      • Black wallnut
        cycling to health
        • Jan 2003
        • 5513
        • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
        • BT3k 1999

        #4
        As Hank posted! Use stock wider than what you are removing with the bit's height above the table. Rip to width after routing if needed.
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