new guy in town...

[Muddler Mike]

Hi all, just introducing myself. I'm a recent home owner who can finally have room for the workshop he's always wanted! Well, sort of - I've got a garage to build it in but will have to work around two cars, etc.[]
As is probably the case with many home shop owners, my first big purchase has been the table saw. Having spent the last month researching and in great part to all of you on this board, I've come to the conclusion that a BT3100 was the best saw for me within my price range. I just picked up one today at HD - and as a bonus there was a $50 rebate on it as well. I'm looking forward to picking all of your brains in the future!

Mike

[monte]

Welcome to the group. Be safe, paint the red line, and enjoy that new saw.

[Tom Hintz]

Mike,
Welcome to the hobby, and this forum. There is lots of good information and experience regarding the BT3100 here so be sure to ask any questions you come up with. If you fall into the normal human range of table saw users, there will be questions!
Be safe first and have fun!

[mater]

Welcome to the forum Mike. I hope you enjoy it.

[silverfox]

Welcome to the cult, Mike. You got a great deal on a great saw. Stick around and keep us posted or ask any questions you may have.
Mike

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Mike!

[jhart]

Welcome aboard Mike!

[Woodnut]

Mike, welcome to the <s>most disturbed</s> neatest group of guys and gals that you'll meet in a woodworking forum!

Take a gander at the Articles section for BT3 specific versions of common (miter-track type) Table Saw jigs and other advice.

And remember, when designing or just building a new jig/accessory, ask one question first -
"What would Kirby do?" [WWKD]

Hey, did anyone notice that we got here before GMACK5 did?

[Muddler Mike]

thanks all for the warm welcome - you know how to make a guy feel at home!

Muddler

[lcm1947]

Yes, welcome Muddler. You did good picking this TS it's a fantastic saw for the price. I am very pleased with mine having had it now for I guess a year or close to it. So finally getting a shop for yourself, ain't it neat!!! Enjoy and we'll see you around I assume.

[kyle.w]

welcome to the group

[lrogers]

You've done now it, you've taken the first step to the darkside. Soon all your clothes will be covered is saw dust, your cars will sit in the driveway and you won't be able to look at a Pottery Barn catalog with thinking "hey I could do that if I only had......."
You're in good company here!!!!!!! Number one thing to remember, around here, the only dumb question is one that doesn't get asked. There is a tremendous knowledge base here, don't be afraid to tap into it.

[Muddler Mike]

quote:Originally posted by lrogers

You've done now it, you've taken the first step to the darkside. Soon all your clothes will be covered is saw dust, your cars will sit in the driveway and you won't be able to look at a Pottery Barn catalog with thinking "hey I could do that if I only had......."
You're in good company here!!!!!!! Number one thing to remember, around here, the only dumb question is one that doesn't get asked. There is a tremendous knowledge base here, don't be afraid to tap into it.

it's funnny you mention that - I've been looking at various furniture and decorating shops and catalogs for years thinking "I can do that - and for much less than what they're charging, too!".

Granted, fine woodworking takes talent, experience, and the right tools. Well, at least I've got a good tool to start with...

[gmack5]

Welcome Mike,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[germdoc]

Hmmm--you could be confused with Mudder. Could be a problem.

(Inside joke.)