Shopping list for the remote cabin project

**Black wallnut** · 10-22-2005, 07:35 PM

The 60 tooth Freud is an excellent second blade; I've used one in the past as an all purpose blade.

**silverfox** · 10-23-2005, 09:08 AM

I didn't see your previous posts concerning this cabin project so I don't know how far along you are on the cabin. I see you mentioned miter cuts and a bunch of trim work...I, frankly, don't know how well you will get along without a CMS in a construction project of this nature. It's my feeling that a CMS or a SCMS is a must for building/remodeling projects. The BT3 will do many amazing things but no table saw is really equipped to do miters and compound miters on long stock. I also don't know if you have yet tried out the BT3100. I think you will find that the OEM blade will cut as smooth as most any blade you can buy. It's made by Freud. Some members here join boards right off the saw. As for the siding...again...I don't know what you are using to side with...sounds like one bys. I'm concerned a little about using a nailer on that part of the project. Siding should be nailed with the nail not hammered all the way home, so to speak. The nail should be inserted so that the head just reaches the siding so that the siding can expand and contract. I'm not trying to tell you how to do your project...these are just some observations on my part.
Mike

**gmack5** · 10-23-2005, 09:46 AM

Mike, I think, if I remember right, he planned to use a siding technique called "Board and Batton".
This orients the siding members vertically, with the seams then covered by nailing a 1 X 3 over the butted seam (small gap between boards), nailing to one board only at each seam. The resulting joint is very similar to a "Ship Lap" joint.

**silverfox** · 10-23-2005, 11:15 AM

Yeah...ok...thanks, George. I'm familiar with that. I stand corrected...go ahead and flush those headed nails. Use galvanized or SS. You DON'T want those nail heads rusting and running the rust down the sides of the structure. Very unsightly. And...I don't think 2&3/8 inch nails are enough. That only gives you 7/8 of an inch into the framing...less if the building is sheathed. Are there nailing blocks between the studs? Or...if it's sheathed...what with?
Mike

**bmyers** · 10-23-2005, 11:37 AM

For the get one free blade, get a 20-something tooth, thin kerf ripping blade. It helps put more punch in your serious ripping needs.

My cabin in the woods:

Good luck!!
Bill

**mattc183** · 10-23-2005, 01:17 PM

Cool! Do you got any more pics of the inside? Definitely keep us posted.

mattc

**gsmittle** · 10-23-2005, 09:59 PM

That wood stove is a beauty....

g.

JR · 10-24-2005, 11:25 AM

quote:Originally posted by bmyers

My cabin in the woods:

Bill, every time you tease us with pics of your cabin I get all weak in the knees. I think I love you, man!

JR

**mater** · 10-24-2005, 01:09 PM

quote:Originally posted by bmyers

For the get one free blade, get a 20-something tooth, thin kerf ripping blade. It helps put more punch in your serious ripping needs.

My cabin in the woods:
Bill

Now that is a nice cabin in the woods.

Ed · 10-27-2005, 06:36 PM

You know what really hurts?...when you're just about through with a nice, long, well-thought-out reply and...you change windows for something and then hit the wrong button. POOF!!! It's gone...<sigh>

Ok, so ya'll will get a more condensed version...which you'll probably like better anyhow.<g>

To bring everybody up to speed on the cabin... The cabin is a life-long dream of mine...started back when I was a teenager. I had planned on a simple 1-2 room polehouse that I would build entirely myself. As time went by the dream grew. Sadly, both my father and brother both passed away within 2 years of each other and the family business became the priorty. Thus, I hired a guy to do most of the building for me. Unfortunately, he was a crook, took the money and ran. Here's a link to my website showing the building process: http://userpages.troycable.net/~welchs/index.html . There are 190 thumbnailed images on this page so go fix a cup of coffee while it loads.

The agreement the guy and I had was for a "turn key to the weatherhead" amount. As I study over the project and try to educate myself more on carpentry and woodworking the more interested I'm getting in woodworking! I'm also seeing more "problems" that the guy left me with. As you'll see on the website we've got a long way to go before it's turn-key...like maybe a door to put a lock in.<sigh>

Anyhow, the main structure is a 2-story ~1850 oak log cabin that we took down and rebuilt. There's a 12x30 lean-to attached to the orignal structure. Emphasis was given on large overhangs/porches to protect the weathered logs. We're using old barn/house wood throughout except for hidden framing. It's got a ways to go to being completed, but we're gonna make it!!!

Black wallnut: I checked on the Freud rebate and it is over for the time being.

qmack5: Thanks for defining the board-n-batten for me.

silverfox: THANK YOU. You just pointed something out to this rank newbie. The walls [u]do not </u>have nailing blocks between the studs. The framing is 2x6 with (going from memory)1/2" plywood sheathing. From my newbie viewpoint either I've got to use screws to attach the siding with...if the screws will hold adequately in the plywood. The other option is removing the insulation and installing nailing blocks. I feel that this would be the "right" way to do it. This project was supposed to have been completed over a year ago (from the time estimate I was given) so, taking the time to get it "right" is acceptable to me. Which way would you suggest?

I'll go with either stainless or galvanized in my fasteners...thanks.

Also, if screws will work out fine then I won't be buying the framing nailer and I'm looking at going ahead and purchasing a miter saw...looking at the Delta 36-255. I was looking at the Dewalt 705R that Amazon had for $155 but then started reading some reviews of the table flexing when the saw was tightened up. As it happened, today the saw is no longer available on Amazon. From what I can tell the Delta is a good saw (but what do I know<g&gt

. Comments?

bmyers: Very nice cabin...a labor of love, no doubt! Thanks for the well wishes and the same to you!!!

Everybody: It'll be a short period of time before I need the equipment and of course I'm trying to buy it as inexpensively as possible. I heard mention that just before Christmas there are usually fairly good discounts that come out. Do you think I'd be better to way a while on buying the saws, nailers, etc.,? Of course, I'm itching to get in the toyshop and start getting the goodies.

Thanks for all your help...I defintely need it!
Ed

Ed · 10-30-2005, 10:45 PM

Been kind of quiet around here...better check my deoderant.

I made a trip to Montgomery today and took a worldwind tour of Sears, Harbor Freight, HD, and Lowes.

Sears sales goodies were about go...didn't see anything that I couldn't live without. Got to Harbor Freight and was curious as to whether they had any reconditioned Makita SCMSs. Was told they didn't handle Makita or Milwaukee anymore. I then went to HD and to Lowes. I didn't buy anything at Lowes, but I did at HD.

You know, sometimes I really gotta wonder about some of the folks working at these places. I couldn't find the rebate coupons for the BT3100 so I asked the guy over that department. He made a token glass around and told me didn't know where they were...actually, he had no clue about the rebate nor the BT3100. His recommendation was to call "them"...that they could probably take the info over the phone. "Hello? Ryobi? I bought one of your saw, will you send me fifty bucks?"....yeah, right. Anyhow, the guy quit looking and I was wandering around...not about to buy a saw till I had the rebate coupon in hand. Finally, down between the chopsaws and miter saws there they were. Ok, got the coupon and found the clerk again. "Where'd you find them?" "Oh, over in the paint department"

Anyhow, I managed to bring home the BT3100 after a little drama.

Knocked out:
BT3100 (need to snip off the barcode and rebate is ready to go!)
6" quick clamp (got the rebate coupon ready to go for a freebie!)
Freud Diablo 60T sawblade (rebate coupon is ready to go!)
(btw, the Freud "buy 1 get 1 free" ends tomorrow...10/31/05)
2 of the Ridgid "flip-top" supports

The 10% coupon I had worked great, guy at the "special services" desk said he hadn't ever seen one of those. ??

Only thing I was a little "miffed" about was the price on the Senco 3-piece nailer....$20 higher than the internet pricing. I figured I'd wait another day to fight that battle.<g>

Anyhow, that's the status of things currently.

Take care,
Ed

**silverfox** · 10-31-2005, 09:01 AM

Well..get that saw up & runnin' Ed. And don't change the blade right away...you'll find the blade that comes with the BT3 is a stellar blade...unlike most manufacturers that supply a junk blade with their saws. I like the blade on the BT3 so well I bought a couple of new ones from komatoast.
Mike

Ed · 11-03-2005, 08:17 PM

<chuckle> Well, the BT is still in the box right now. The business is keeping me running.<groan> I did manage, though, to get down to the cabin yesterday and install the chimney-top Lyemance damper...getting ready for a stayover this weekend.

I want to go back and do some finish caulking around the damper/flue joint...anybody ever used Permatex high temp RTV silicone on mortar???

Anyhow, I've got a couple of friends coming in this weekend to help me assess the cabin project...after that I'll hopefully be making sawdust. I've read through the BT manual a few times and see what everybody means about the initial check/tuning being towards the back of the book...seems Ryobi takes it for granted it'll be tuned and ready to go out of the box. We'll see.

I checked the plywood sheathing and it is 1/2" with no nailing boards. Do you think the ring-shank nails would hold good in 1/2"? We're working with 3/4" siding stock.

The HF 2.5hp/6-gal/99.99 compressor arrived today. Looks like it made the trip ok, but there are a couple of things I noticed that I'm not sure about...the pressure switch cover (which states on a lable "Do Not Remove" was loose, the screw appears to be too short to screw into the pressure switch frame. Also, the little red knob on top of the switch cover is NOTHING...it is simply a knob that simply presses down on the pressure switch when the cover is attached...I can't attach it because the screws too short. The knob gives the impression of being a "pressure adjustment" but in fact only a placebo to make you "think" it adjusts...a simple molded stub would have worked. Anyhow, I'll get some 30-weight oil tomorrow (and a longer screw) and see how/if it works. It's defintely not job-site quality, but hopefully it'll be ok for me "gently" pulling it around the cabin and later in the garage or (one of these days) shop at the house. Hmm, maybe outside the shop...depends on how loud it is.

I'll take your advice, Mike, and start out with the OE blade on the BT. Should do a better job on the ripping than the 60T anyhow.

Ed

**gmack5** · 11-03-2005, 10:33 PM

Welcome Ed,

NOW you're going to get it!
The infamous BT3X00 greeting that I post for all new owners!
Enjoy!

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

Shopping list for the remote cabin project

Shopping list for the remote cabin project

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