Router Question

[TheHinge]

I found my router bits for my Craftsman Router. I do not have the owner's manual (all was given to me). There are some bits that fit in the collet just fine. That is they stick out far enough that they will actually cut the wood! There are other bits, like the 1/8 straight cut that sink so low in the collet that I know I must be doing something wrong. How can I get those bits to fit in the machine correct? Some adapter? All are Craftsman bits. Thanks.

[Tom Hintz]

Most bits like a 1/8"-diameter straight cutter have very short cutting edges making it OK to insert the bit as far into the collet as you can and still leave the cutting edge exposed for use. With such a short cutting edge, the need for support in the collet can be met with less shank, though you should use all of the shank possible.
The diameter also helps in this as being so small, there is little chance of vibration or excessive ofrces working against the portion locked in the collet.
I personally would want to toss the bit and get one with a full-length shank but I understand the economics of running a home woodshop. In the future, when you buy bits, remember this and that it into consideration.

[ElRay]

quote:Originally posted by Tom Hintz

... though you should use all of the shank possible. ...

But, there's the old adage to never let your router bits bottom-out in the collet -- they should always be at least a smidge off the bottom. Don't know why this is suggested. Anybody know?

Ray

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by ElRay

quote:Originally posted by Tom Hintz

... though you should use all of the shank possible. ...

But, there's the old adage to never let your router bits bottom-out in the collet -- they should always be at least a smidge off the bottom. Don't know why this is suggested. Anybody know?

It's because there's a small fillet where the shank meets the cutterhead. If the bit is inserted all the way the collet will close down around the slightly larger fillet rather than the shank proper, and the bit will almost certainly loosen during the cut.

[boblon]

Not sure where I read it (woodshopdemos maybe), but I put two 1/2" OD O-Rings in the bottom of the collet. So far it's worked great.

BobL.

[stoli]

You do know that you can adjust the height of the router bit after it is installed, correct? It sounds like the adjustment (which is router specific) is set all the way in. There is probably some kind of lock mechanism, and an adjustment as well. After installing the bit in the router most of the way in, you should use the router adjustement to fine tune the depth of cut.

-=[doug]=-

[Black wallnut]

quote:Originally posted by LarryG

quote:Originally posted by ElRay

quote:Originally posted by Tom Hintz

... though you should use all of the shank possible. ...

But, there's the old adage to never let your router bits bottom-out in the collet -- they should always be at least a smidge off the bottom. Don't know why this is suggested. Anybody know?

It's because there's a small fillet where the shank meets the cutterhead. If the bit is inserted all the way the collet will close down around the slightly larger fillet rather than the shank proper, and the bit will almost certainly loosen during the cut.

That's one reason. Another is that since collets are tapered (outside) and are drawn into the shaft as you tighten the nut the bit's shank does too. It is possible to tighten the nut and have the bit bottom out in the shaft and not get tight, but it will seem at the wrench end that the bit is tight because there will be a very noticable greater resitance to the tightening force as the bit bottoms out.