Precision Alignment Locking Ssytem (PALS)

[charleson]

Because of this site, I've decided to purchase a BT3100 as a 1st time buyer of a table saw. The info here is like having my own coaches to guide and encourage my skill development. Hoping to get off to the best possible start, I'm wondering if any users have attached PALS to their equipment. I ask because of the 5-STEP TABLE SAW TUNE-UP article, Workbench magazine Vol. 61, No. 4, Issue #290. It seems to be an excellent device for maintaining alignment accuracy which is essential to good craftsmanship. Would it be wise to attach PALS to my saw right out of the box and sidestep potential alignment problems which may lie ahead? Or is it something that's needed at all on the BT3100? Thanks for this great site and all of the valuable info offered.

[Otter]

This saw is very different, you align everything to the blade, the FAQ has the step, by step for this process in a better format than the owners book.

Paint the Red line
and look for gmack5 wonderful welcome post

Edit:

I forgot, WELCOME TO THE MADNESSS MUHHHAAAAAA!!!!!

[gmack5]

Welcome Charles,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[monte]

Welcome to the group Charles. Enjoy your new saw!

[Hoover]

The Pals system is used on conventional cast iron design contractors and cabinet style saws, that use front and rear trunions. The Ryobi mounting system is way different, and does not need the set up you describe. Good luck with the saw.

[RodKirby]

Where do I read about this PALS system - Google didn't help.

I need it for my new saw

[Otter]

Rod

I used them on my Jet and you will love them. After buying them I figured that I could build my own.

Here is a link
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html

[Habe]

Rod
Try MDF, it may or may not do it. Might have a problem at the right angle of the PALS.

[RodKirby]

Otter - Many thanks for the link.

Habe - I don't think I'll try this in MDF!

[Stytooner]

Rod is also a pro with aluminum. Take a closer look at some of his jigs. [8D]

[Knottscott]

quote:Originally posted by Hoover

The Pals system is used on conventional cast iron design contractors and cabinet style saws, that use front and rear trunions. The Ryobi mounting system is way different, and does not need the set up you describe. Good luck with the saw.

The PALS are for saws that use traditional cast iron table top mounted trunnions. They help hold the trunnions in place better, and make adjustment much easier. They may fit some hybrids, but I don't think they'll fit most cabinet saws though, and I'm certain they won't fit the BT. They were a great addition to my GI contractor saw, but aren't necessary on my Sears 22124 which uses cabinet mounted trunnions. $20 through In-lineindustries.com or Woodcraft.

[John Hunter]

Welcome to the Board Charles.

[charleson]

Thanks for the welcome and for the very helpful info you provide. I see now that PALS seems more suitable for saws with designs that differ from that of the BT3100. FYI the 5-STEP TABLE SAW TUNE-UP article appears in Workbench - August.