sharpening woodworking tools

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • sramsey
    #1

    sharpening woodworking tools

    I have been doing woodcarving and have found that it is getting harder and harder to carve the wood as the tools are getting dull. I downloaded some info on how to sharpen my carving tools but was wondering if anyone has some suggestions. I know it is really important to know how, but I have tried so many times and failed each time to get a nice edge on my cutting surface. I do have a leather strop, and several different honing stones. I love carving but I am at a loss right now.

    Thanks for any help I can get.

    Sue
    Tags: None
    • rbfunk
      Established Member
      • Dec 2003
      • 400
      • Garfield, NJ, USA.
      #2
      Sue
      Patience is the first thing you need.
      Second is to make sure you are not changing the bevel angle. If you don't have a bevel guide, get one. At least for the straight edges. Check out Lee Valley, Rockler, etc.
      Start with you coarse stone, some honing oil and gentle pressure. Once you get the bevel even, move up to the next finer stone. Maintain the bevel! When you run out of sharping stones put some rouge on the strop and use that to polish the bevel.
      Yo might want to do a web search on te"Scary Sharp" system which uses wet/dry sandpaper to do the same thing.
      If you have a bit of spare money, the Tormex system is supposed to be the way to go.
      It's a lot easier to sharpen before your tools before they get really dull. Then you can start with a medium stone instead of the coarse.
      Practice on a pocket knife or something to get an idea of how to do it.
      Bob
      Oh what a tangled web we weave, when we are all hopped up on caffine.

        Comment

        • Mainemarc
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2003
          • 673
          • Portland, ME, USA.
          #3
          Hi Sue:

          Repeat in front of a mirror: "My sharpening skills will get better; my sharpening skills will get better; my sharpening skills will get better;...."

          It's almost inevitable that as a beginner, you'll be less than succesful at restoring the edges of your tools to their original condition. The good news is that with practice it's equally inevitable that it'll get a *lot* easier. Eventually, you'll be able to get an edge noticably better than what was done in the factory. I kid you not. In fact, you'll constantly be adjusting upwards your personal definition of "sharp".

          Bob gave you really good advice except that I think that the Tormek is absolute overkill for small, edged hand tools (sorry Bob!). You need to learn to hold the tool at a steady angle to acheive a consistent bevel, and to judge when it's time to move up to the next finer stone. It just takes time to develop those skills.

          Concentrate first on your carving tools with straight or gently curved edges. They're a lot easier to sharpen than the tiny profiles.
          Marc

            Comment

            • Jim-Iowa
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2005
              • 769
              • Colfax, Iowa, USA.
              #4
              I`m not a carver as much as I try.
              But I make a lot of chips just the same.
              Scary Sharp is the place to start for sure.
              And your strop is your best friend!
              Once you get a good edge use the strop often and you will be able to keep the edge sharp.
              Sanity is just a one trick pony. Being a bit Crazy is a wide open field of opportunity!

                Comment

                • gonesailing
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Apr 2005
                  • 96
                  • Manzano, New Mexico, USA.
                  #5
                  Sue, think that you have been given good advice. LOML has been taking carving lessons and they pounded on her that as soon as the tool begins to drag at all, touch up the edge by stroping it or using a buffing wheel. A cheap HF 6" grinder with the stones replace with a hard felt wheel and a muslin wheel, and some microfine buffing compound has helped us a lot.

                  Doing it this way only requires a course stone to set the bevel, a 600 grit stone for initial honing, the buffer for polishing and you get a great edge. If doing it all by hand, then it becomes much more important to go down through the various grits, otherwise it takes forever.

                  As you sharpen the tool, a burr forms on the back side of the cutting edge. This indicates that it is time to carefully turn the tool over and grind off the burr, then go on to the next step. I is always hard for me to have the patience to wait for the burr to form.

                  I am lucky, Woodcraft has a professional wood turner and carver that teaches sharpening classes in Albuquerque. I have taken his course on sharpening chisels and plans, and Saturday LOML and I will take his course on sharpening wood carving tools. I will be interested in seeing what kind, if any, jigs he uses for the curved cutting tools.

                  If interested, drop me an email and I will send you all the gritty details and comments from the class.

                  Mike

                    Comment

                    Previous template Next
                    Working...