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I know, I know -- it looks an AWFUL lot like by no frills fence-riding tenoning jig, but that's only because it's the same darn jig -- just turned around on the fence. It turns out it does a great job of cutting mortises (for floating tenons) in the ends of stock (which I need for a table I'm making).
I drill a hole the size of my router bit into piece of scrap at just the right distance from two edges -- the start of the mortise. Then I stick it on the router bit and use that to set the fence. Once the fence is set, I slide the jig up against the scrap and add a clamp to the fence (the one in the back).
With the jig against that clamp, I measure the length of my mortise (less the width of the bit) from the other side of the jig and set the other clamp. Finally, I raise the router bit to the depth of the mortise and slowly lower the wood onto the bit, sliding it back and forth between the clamps.
You can't see it in this photo, but there's an L-shaped piece clamped to the top that helps to hold the work in place while still allowing it to be dropped vertically onto the router bit.
This little guy has turned out to be quite handy!
I drill a hole the size of my router bit into piece of scrap at just the right distance from two edges -- the start of the mortise. Then I stick it on the router bit and use that to set the fence. Once the fence is set, I slide the jig up against the scrap and add a clamp to the fence (the one in the back).
With the jig against that clamp, I measure the length of my mortise (less the width of the bit) from the other side of the jig and set the other clamp. Finally, I raise the router bit to the depth of the mortise and slowly lower the wood onto the bit, sliding it back and forth between the clamps.
You can't see it in this photo, but there's an L-shaped piece clamped to the top that helps to hold the work in place while still allowing it to be dropped vertically onto the router bit.
This little guy has turned out to be quite handy!
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