Quickie Drafting/Light Table with Step-by-Step

[atgcpaul]

I always enjoy reading other people's build logs so I tried to record the steps
when building my wife's drafting/light table.

Backstory. We want to put in a stone patio but we need to have the plans
approved by the City since we live in a historic district. We contacted a
landscape designer who got us started but didn't finalize the plans. I have
enlisted my wife to formalize the plans but she wanted a light table so she
could use tracing paper to use the designer's plans as a template.

I saw a post on the net about some guy building an inexpensive light table
using HD plexiglass and a florescent ring light. Yesterday morning (yes,
yesterday, I came up with an idea while watching my Saturday morning New
Yankee Workshop and TOH Hour. Quickly sketched it out and made a cutlist.
The parts labeled 13 1/2" are wrong. They should be 10". Good thing it
wasn't the other way around.




I needed less than a half sheet of plywood. I cut the sheet into several
3.5" strips with my TS.




Then I cut all the strips to length at my miter saw.




Although not my idea, my stroke of genius was to laminate 3 strips of ply
and leave a 3.5" gap as a mortise.




Using two of the tenons as spacers, I applied glue to all the leg base parts
except the tenons. I did 4 of these glueups. 2 are bases that sit on the
floor and the other 2 support the table top.




After the bases were glued up, I removed the tenon. Using a coffee can, I
traced a radius on the 4 bases and then cut it out on the band saw.




Since this table would be height adjustable, I needed to cut slots in the
upright supports so that carriage bolts could slide through them. I figured out
where I wanted the slot to start and stop and setup stop blocks on my
drill press at those locations. I drilled 32 7/16" holes.




To make the slot, I decided to use my router table with a 3/8" spiral bit. Again,
I used stop blocks to control the start and the end of the cut. I had the bit
raised slightly more than 1/2 way through the ply so I could use a push pad
the whole time. With the 7/16" hole drilled previously, I could drop the board
onto the spinning bit and not have the bit touch the wood right away. With
one side of the slot cut, I carefully lifted the piece off the bit. To complete
the slot, rather that raising the bit and exposing it, I flipped the piece over
and cut a little more than half way again.




Now I was ready to glue up the uprights. I put the tenons into the mortises
dry, then applied glue to the 2" that protruded out, then glued the boards I
just cut slots in on either side of the tenon. After the glue on the uprights
dried, I glued the tenons into the mortises.




The tops and bottoms are symmetrical. I cut 4 3.5" boards to equal twice
the length of the gap in the upright. Then I put those boards through my
thickness planer to make them slide easier in the upright gap. I slipped the
boards in the gap and assembled the top and bottom together. I layed the
legs on my bench and routed a slight roundover on all the exposed edges.
Then I drilled a 3/8" hole through the board that joins the top and bottom
assembly that was lined up with the topmost and bottommost portion of the
upright slots. Carriage bolts go through the holes and a washer and wingnut
secure it.

The top was a ready made board a bought years ago for $2. It used to be
display shelving. It measures 24" x 36". The top is attached to the base with
figure-8 fasteners and then the base has 2 screwed-on braces that keep the
table from racking.

Now I needed to install the plexiglass sheet. It's identical to installing a
router plate into a router table top. I traced around the plexiglass sheet,
then drew a line that was inset 1/2" from that edge. Then I drilled 4 holes
inside the inset line for cutting it out with a jigsaw.




Using a straight bit in my laminate trimmer, I figured out how far away from my
guide lines I should setup some fences. Then I set the bit depth to equal the
thickness of the plexiglass and then routed the recess.




Using my random orbit sander, I scuffed up the plexiglass to make it opaque.

Here's the finished table. At its lowest, it's 28" high. When fully extended,
it's 40" tall. I didn't put any finish on it, though.




The top can also be angled to make drawing more comfortable.




I haven't rigged up the light yet, but that's next. I'm actually quite pleased
with this. Construction took less than 24 hours and really didn't cost that
much. Now I just need to get my wife to finish those plans.

Paul

[MilDoc]

Loks real good to me. Now, when can I borrow it?

[Uncle Cracker]

Nicely done. Only concern I have is the raw edges on the ply pieces, especially on the front edges of the left and right front pillars, and the front edges on the horizontal table supports and floor elements. These might get splintery and make it hazardous to feet and ankles, and catch clothing. You might consider easing these edges and finishing with poly. I also know a guy who built a work table out of laminated ply and finished it with fiberglass resin after scraping himself up on the raw edges.

[lrogers]

I want one just like it!

[Pappy]

Can't tell if there is a finish on it or not, but I agree with Uncle C, ease all the edges and seal them.

The dual function combo is a good idea.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Paul:

That is really a nice design. Thanks for the build log. Layout to finished project in 24-hr ... you are my idol!

- Lonnie

[OpaDC]

Did you actually DRINK that chicory coffee or use it for stain????? Oh, and thanks for the blow by blow description. Love seeing work in progress. And very nice design.

p.s. Just noticed the cross piece on the bottom, did you consider putting it in the center? Could serve dual purpose of having a footrest and allowing for tilting table either way. When I draw sometimes I like my arm to rest on table top for detail and other times I want my hands and arms free for bigger fluid motion.

[John Hunter]

Very nice!

[mater]

That is a nice write up and very nice work.

[jhart]

Good write up and pictures Paul. Looks very functional. Nice to start and finish something in a short time period. I agree about easing the edges.

[atgcpaul]

Thanks everyone. All the outer edges are eased (in the write-up) and all the
faces are sanded smooth, but the edges of the pieces that connects the
upper to the lower are not. If it wasn't for all the rain, it would have a coat
of poly, but now the desk is in my basement and the desire to carry it
outside just isn't there anymore. Maybe when my wife complains about her
first splinter, it will return.

Paul