Walnut & Maple box (prototype #2) PIC cross posted
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I can't see anything wrong with that one. Beautiful. -
Pototype #1 was a salvaged mistake … scroll down on this forum and look for the heading “Walnut & Maple box (prototype #1) PIC cross posted” and have a look. Prototype #1 has the legs sticking up and forms the rest for the top … Prototype #2 has and even lip all the way around.
A tutorial you say … well ok I’ll get on it.
BrianComment
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Looks like just the right size. . .throw a couple cubes of ice into it, put the can in and wait...Enco 12" RT table saw(with router table currently added to right wing), Central Machinary 6" jointer, Delta 16" (17-900) drill press, Ridgid 14" bandsaw, Jet bench top Mortising machine, Porter Cable 6901 series routers (2) and a wide variety of Ryobi 18v tools.Comment
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Tutorial for Anna
Top Side plan
The side plan
I had to make a few specialized jigs for this box and here are a few of them in use:
routing slots for splines
cutting groves for legs with dado blades
The glue up ... I used slow setting epoxy as ordinary glue was too grabby too fast. Sucked up the epoxy in a syring and placed just enough in the slots but not the the groves for the top and bottom panels.
If you decide to make a box like this please let me know as there are some other issues peculiar to this box such as once you have routed the two cuts in the side pieces the separate pieces are now very weak and can break easily, to fix this I placed 4 pieces of tight fitting ¼ scrap in the outside grove, this also helps with glue up as the without the supports the box may bow in creating a gap between the lid and the box … this is the last thing you want.
When cutting the box in half (through the red line in the second diagram) with the table saw precautions must be made so that the cuts do not bind on the blade ruining the piece or resulting in a kickback … as each cut is made through the box a 1/8 dowel was hot glued into the kerf so that the box could not close up on the blade.
More on next post
BrianComment
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Here is a cross section of the lid
And in order to make the shape most of the material is hogged away on the router table and then this bit is used to finish the cut as it can sneak under the lip
And in order to make the shape most of the material is hogged away on the router table and then this bit is used to finish the cut as it can sneak under the lip
In order to make a tight fitting lid you will notice that in diagram 2 that the measurement on the top right mentions greater than 1/8 this is so that you can sneak up on the tightness of the lid by gradually lowering the bit until the slot in the lid fits tightly in the grove in the sides of the box
I just read my series of posts, and managed to confuse myself … hope you do better, if not just get back to me.
BrianComment
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Beautiful, simply beautiful.Larry R. Rogers
The Samurai Wood Butcher
http://splash54.multiply.com
http://community.webshots.com/user/splash54Comment
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