Glass table - WIP

[niki]

Good day

The title is glass table but, actually, I'm just changing the top according to the last order of my wife (ok, I also love to do it)...

I built the table some 8 years ago while living in Japan.
It's made of Luan, 23" x 23" and stained 5 years later.
.
The top (frame) is Oak 1¼" thick 4" wide and 25" x 25", I'm using the same stain and hope that it will fit somehow to the stained Laun.

Now, I'm painting the frame but, because of the weather the drying time between the layers is very long (so was the gluing and staining).

The design is that a plywood will sit inside the frame, and on top of the plywood, ¼" glass.
Between the glass and the plywood will come "something" that I cannot tell you (by order) and you shall have to wait and see the finished top.

Regards
niki

[Ken Massingale]

That's going to be nice, niki. I'm anxious to see what goes under the glass.

One question tho, why is R2D2 sitting in the bucket??? ;-D

Ken

[niki]

Thank you Ken

I'm now painting and soon we shall both know what will come under the glass...and how it will look...

The R2D2 is my pet so, I just "lifted" it up to see the world better
It is dedicated to the TS and removes all the saw dust (clean floor).

niki

[atgcpaul]

Niki, you are the jig master! I always enjoy reading your posts and seeing all
the handy jigs like your innovative featheroard with wheels. Good looking
so far.


Paul

[Ed62]

Excellent, Nikki! I love all the pics you post. They sure make things easier to understand.

But I have a question, if you don't mind. I noticed in the pic where you are jointing to make the same size workpieces, the workpiece is between the bit and the fence. Is that the way you normally do it? I always thought it was best/safest to keep the workpiece on the other side of the bit. Now, that ceretainly doesn't mean I've got it right on that. Just curious.

Ed

[niki]

Thank you

Ed
It's not the normal way to work on router table but for me, it's the only way that I know and can (also easiest and fastest) to make all the pieces same width exactly.
That's the reason that I use iron bars that the first one is sharpen like a chisel and in case of push back it will stick into the wood. I also use strong gripping push blocks and stand behind the fence (I posted it somewhere) and remove only 0.004" at each "shave".

I think that it's a matter of ones choice to use such a method or not.
You can see on the Internet WW shows, that the guy is working on the TS without a splitter/riving knife and/or without the blade guard and removing the off-cuts with his hand less than 1" from the spinning blade it's not the correct or normal way and I would never do it but they do...

Another example is the "Grrriper" That will not "cross the pond" to Europe because it is considered so unsafe (and personally, I would never touch it) but many guys find it very useful tool (btw, I made something like the Grrriper and when my hand was over the blade...lucky that I was wearing the brown pants that time... I just pressed the "Stop" button).

So, it's like this guy that came to the customs and declared that he has "Birds food" and when the customs officer tolled him "hey it's coffee" he replied "well, they want they eat - they don't want, they don't eat but, for me, it's birds food"...

Regards
niki

[lrogers]

It was hard to see the table top. After looking at the pictures of the jigs I was drooling and my eyes were watering! Niki, your jigs and pictorial are awesome. Oh, the table was excellent too!

[ejs1097]

Nice Work....I really like your shop and jigs. the corner braces are nice. As is the 45 sled.

[LarryG]

Ed: Note that in niki's jointing setup, the feed direction is opposite to what is normal on a router table. This makes it a somewhat less risky operation than it would otherwise be since the rotating bit will not try to yank the workpiece out of your hands.

niki: Great work as usual, but I will confess to being more entranced by your bench-grinder-as-disc-sander rig. Never thought of that. Having now seen it, it's so bleedin' obvious it hurts ...

[Ed62]

Nikki,

Thanks very much for the reply. That clears up my question.

.lucky that I was wearing the brown pants that time

That's hilarious! But probably true enough.

Ed

[niki]

Thank you for your kind words

Irogers
All the jigs are posted in detail, in this post I'm just showing that I also use them from time to time...

LarryG
I'm feeding in normal direction, that means, the cutter is biting into the fed wood.
What you see on the 5th pic with the text "Jointing to get the same width" is the starting point and I feed to the right (of the pic). The iron bars are just replacing the fence and the wood is guided on the straight edge.

The bench grinder is very "old" in the garage, I did not post it because I did not think that it's interesting. the "wheel" is 1/2" plywood that I made it on the table saw using sled and pivot screw, so it does not vibrates when turning. This grinder is only 180W but I would like some 350~400W (1/2 HP) one.

Ed
I was not joking (well, kind of) with the "brown pants", it really scared the $#!@ out of me...

Regards
niki

[LarryG]

I'm feeding in normal direction, that means, the cutter is biting into the fed wood.

Yes, I understand. I should have qualified "normal" to mean "when the bit is buried in the fence." When you put the workpiece between the fence and bit as your picture shows, you have to reverse the usual right-to-left feed direction used with the bit buried in the fence in order to get the same rotational relationship between the bit and the wood.

[Ed62]

Ed: Note that in niki's jointing setup, the feed direction is opposite to what is normal on a router table. This makes it a somewhat less risky operation than it would otherwise be since the rotating bit will not try to yank the workpiece out of your hands.

Sorry Larry. I didn't see your post before. Yes, I understand what you're saying. It's just that I haven't seen pieces being routed like that before. But I'm sure there's a lot of things I haven't seen. I'm just a rookie.

Ed