Whats wrong with these hinges?

[onedash]

my door only opens 90 degrees because the edge opens agains the side.
Did I install them wrong and can I replace them with different hinges to get the door to open further? I can not slide the bottom out because the middle rail hits the door. The door pops off easy enough so I can fully extend the hinges but I was just wondering if I made a mistake and if I can fix it.

[ChrisD]

1-,
Is it possible that you picked up a 90-degree hinge? The Blum hinges I used in a recent project swing 110 and I can actually see how it's designed so that the door clears the carcase side when it opens. I followed the instructions very carefully as it was my first time using this type of hinge, not to mention first time building doors.

By the way, that's some nice looking Bubinga and it looks like you took a lot of care selecting straight grain stock for your frame parts. Can't wait to see the finished piece.

[cabinetman]

Try changing the hinges to what's called 0 - protrusion.

[RayintheUK]

Looks to me like the cup portion of the hinge has been sunk into the door too far from the rear edge. For full overlay fixing, there should only be a very small clearance - cabinetman's diagram bears that out.

Moving the hinge posts forward won't do it - it's just the way the hinges work. Have a look on either Blum or Hafele sites for dimensions and clearances required.

You can re-sink the hinges higher or lower on the stile, then refit the frame parts accordingly. You'll have extra holes, but you can get blanking plates for those. HTH.

Ray.

[onedash]

i should have read the instructions. I just made sure the cup wasn't going to go throughand with my practice holes I made sure it would clear the side. Then I clamped the door to the side of the desk to drill my holes in the side (after the hinges were on the door) I think these were supposed to open 120 degrees.

so new hinges in the same holes probably wouldn't work???

[jgrobler]

If your situation will allow it, you can try to trim off 1/16 to 1/8 from the edge, to "bring" the cup closer to the edge. I did that once, and although my inner stile was about 3/32" wider than the outer stile, it's not noticable unless someone really looks at it carefully.

Of coarse my next ones were better measured, and now when I use new hinges I always make a prototype to get the best fit.

[cabinetman]

i should have read the instructions. I just made sure the cup wasn't going to go throughand with my practice holes I made sure it would clear the side. Then I clamped the door to the side of the desk to drill my holes in the side (after the hinges were on the door) I think these were supposed to open 120 degrees.

so new hinges in the same holes probably wouldn't work???

The distance for the cup hole from the back edge is for most euro hinges 1/8" to 3/16". If the door opens without the back edge rubbing on the front of the cabinet, your spacing is close enough. If that were the problem you wouldn't be able to open the door 90 degrees. If the cup hole is too far from the edge of the door, the arm would hit the back edge of the door as the door opened. Slide the hinge arm out towards the front on the plate you will see that the spacing is not the problem. It's the hinge.

Some cranking arms are designed with a different rotational geometry that changes the pivot point of the door. The example I posted is exactly the hinge designed to do that. I've mounted many, and I mean many hinges by just placing the cabinet on its back, placing the door 90 degrees to the cabinet where its supposed to line up, with the plate mounted on the hinge, and spacers (like popsicle sticks) between the door edge and the cabinet, and screwed down the hinge. Doing this make sure the arm is in the middle of the front/back adjustment allowance.

It's called Modul 165 - 0-Protrusion with 165 deg Opening
For screw in:
The Blum # for the hinge for free swinging is: 90.7500.20
The Blum # for the hinge for self closing is: 91.7500.20

For dowel (press in): Free swing: 90.7530.20
Self closing: 91.7530.20

On your next project, without being hinge specific, make the cabinet, hang the door, then make the drawer with a spacer on the hinge side or both sides to clear the door when at a minimum of 90 degrees.