Bandsawn Box making - Use a Laser ?

[Tony Ward]

Hi

In another Bandsawn Box thread (2nd box by Travis) the question was asked whether a Laser or similar cutting device was used instead of a bandsaw?

As I understand a Laser cutting device is useful only for shallow cuts, that the cutting beam (if that is the correct technical phrase) is tapered over distance and therefore unable to produce a straight sided product? Does anyone know?

I do not know of any other cutting device capable of cutting about 150mm (6")?

I only use a bandsaw.

Tony Ward

[linear]

Acrylic is routinely laser cut. I don't see why wood would be a problem.

Anyone seen an acrylic bandsaw box? You wouldn't need to slice off drawer or cabinet backs at all that way.

I may have to see if I have enough in the scrap box to give this idea a shake. (Bandsaw, that is, I don't own a laser)

[T-Bone]

which blade (or blades)?

Tony,

This is a perfect setup for my first question for you.

Since we've established that you don't use a laser (even though it looks like you do), which bandsaw blades to you prefer and why?

So far, I've used a Timberwolf 1/4" 10tpi (not sure of the hook type) for my first two attempts because that is what I happened to have on hand but I had a hard time with some of the tight curves and actually got a lot of burning on the first box (poplar). That could be me (most likely), could be that the blade is dull, or could be the size of the blade or tpi or type of blade, I guess. I don't have much of a clue yet on the nuances of bandsaw blades.

Thanks, Travis.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Just to add to the mix: I use a 10 tpi-3/16 blade for the whole thing. With a good resaw fence I do the cutoff for the back. The blade is small enough to do all the curve cuts without any problems, just have to cut SLOW. Always use a "stone" on the back of the blade to make it cut curves better. So far I've made about twenty or so boxes over the last couple of years.

[Tony Ward]

Tony,

This is a perfect setup for my first question for you.

Since we've established that you don't use a laser (even though it looks like you do), which bandsaw blades to you prefer and why?

So far, I've used a Timberwolf 1/4" 10tpi (not sure of the hook type) for my first two attempts because that is what I happened to have on hand but I had a hard time with some of the tight curves and actually got a lot of burning on the first box (poplar). That could be me (most likely), could be that the blade is dull, or could be the size of the blade or tpi or type of blade, I guess. I don't have much of a clue yet on the nuances of bandsaw blades.
Thanks, Travis.

Travis

I use my 3/16" for just everything, including log sawing (sometimes called re-sawing). tpi - 10 to 12, depending on what is available at the time.

As an experiment measure the thickness of a new blade with an old one, with use blades loose their sharp edge and therefore become narrower "dull" then off to the bin.

Burn marks, whilst bandsawing curves, could mean that the blade is twisting, to overcome this slightly increase the amount the rate the timber is turned/moved/worked. There is a tendency to slow down on the curves, because they are curves, with practice increase the speed and decrease the amount of burn. Burn marks may also occur if the blade is not properly supported, so set up is important.

Honing the back of the blade reduces the length of the blade (cutting edge to rear), I've done it once in the last 3-4 years.

Tony Ward

[T-Bone]

Thanks L.D. and Tony,

I think I'll order a couple 3/16" 10 tpi blades soon. I do have a 1/8" 14 tpi blade but I wonder if that is too small to prevent bowing? Or are there other reasons not to use a 1/8" blade or a blade with that many teeth?

As far as the burning, I did a complete re-setup on the bandsaw (Grizz G0555 14" with riser block) after the first box and got the wheels as coplaner as I could and adjusted all of the guide bearings and the blade is riding right in the middle of both wheels. It did seem to help when I did the second box or maybe it was just because I was cutting cedar instead of poplar. After a few attempts, I still haven't figured out the Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf) suggested method of adjusting tension (start loose and increase tension until the blade stops vibrating) and I must be tone-deaf because plucking the blade like a guitar does nothing for me. So, I just crank up the tension based on the scale on the bandsaw. Is blade tension important enough that I should work on this?

linear - I really like the idea of an acrylic box - let us know if you try it. If you can successfully hide all of the cuts I think it would look nice.

[Tony Ward]

T-Bone

Blade tension is all important! I repeat ~ Blade tension is all important!

Get it right and the quality of your work will increase.

Tighten the blade to the recommended position, then give the adjusting knob an additional turn. There are some who say that a blade should be over tensioned by about an inch!

Tony Ward

[niki]

Hi Tony

I believe that you are referring to me in the other post.

If I remember, I said that "I'm sure that you are cutting the boxes with some Laser beam" (or something like that).

I did not say it because I understand in laser, but as an admiration to your precise and beautiful works.

I read in many adds, "Laser cut" or "Laser engraved" so I assume that it's very precise.

I know that you cut them with Bandsaw.

Best Regards
niki

[Greg.B]

Hi Tony,

Funny that you just joined here, as I found your website last night looking for tutorials on bandsaw boxes. Your work is excellent. I signed up and got a free plan and plan on giving it a try soon enough.

[Tony Ward]

Greg B

Please feel free to use the Pocket Guide to Bandsawn Box Making in conjunction with one or both of the free bandsawn box plans, nice to see them put to good use.