Coffee Table

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  • mater
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2004
    • 4197
    • SC, USA.

    #16
    That is very nice work.
    Ken aka "mater"

    " People may doubt what you say but they will never doubt what you do "

    Ken's Den

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    • GPA61
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2004
      • 710
      • Rancho Cucamonga, CA
      • BT 3100 & JET JWTS

      #17
      Very, very nice indeed!!!
      Claudio

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      • Wood_workur
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2005
        • 1914
        • Ohio
        • Ryobi bt3100-1

        #18
        that is really nice, and looks very "heavy-duty_ in the design/construction
        Alex

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        • lrogers
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 3853
          • Mobile, AL. USA.
          • BT3000

          #19
          Hard to say which version I liked better; both are beautiful. A design that robust will last for many years and many moves.
          Larry R. Rogers
          The Samurai Wood Butcher
          http://splash54.multiply.com
          http://community.webshots.com/user/splash54

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          • footprintsinconc
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2006
            • 1759
            • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
            • BT3100

            #20
            nice job! both look very nice, however, i do prefer no stain over stained aswell.

            so is that table top 1" thick oak? and how did you manage to get such a glossy finish on the table top (as seen in the first picture)?

            regards,
            _________________________
            omar

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            • softop41
              Established Member
              • Jul 2004
              • 470
              • Plainfield, IL, USA.
              • BT3100-1

              #21
              Well made and looks great the way it isto bad you have to stain; but as you said....SWMBO! The refinishing will probably be a bigger pain than construction and the existing finish were together!
              Jerry
              Jerry
              Making High Quality Sawdust in Northeast Plainfield

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              • niki
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 566
                • Poland
                • EB PK255

                #22
                Thank you

                Omar
                The top is 1" Lauan, the finish on the unstained version is Clear Glossy Varnish.
                My method is (with any finish),
                *I sand the surface down to #400 (and sometimes #600).
                *I apply the first layer (diluted 30~40%) and let it dry for 24 hours than,
                *Without sanding, I apply the 2nd layer (same dilution) and let it dry 24 hours than,
                *Very light sanding with #400 to remove any bumps, this sanding is very important because from the 3rd layer the "Build-up" starts and any bumps will be more pronounced.
                *I continue with "layer - 24 hours - sanding - layer" till I get the gloss that satisfies me (in this case it was 7 layers).

                The first and second layers are acting as "sanding sealer", they penetrate deep into the wood (I noticed it when I stripped the varnish before staining) and fill the pores.

                The drying time can vary depends on the Varnish type, temperature and humidity. If when I sand I get kind of "Macaroni", I know that it's still not dry.

                In general, I prefer more diluted finish because it's like "self evening" and gives me more time to re-brush especially on large surfaces (kind of longer "open time").

                I apply the varnish "cross grain" and than, I brush it along the grain, if the Varnish is not diluted enough, when I come to the end of the surface, the first part starts already to dry.

                I use foam brush for all the finishes except Nitro base finish or Oil based Stain.

                Jerry
                You are correct, it took long time and very deep sanding to get rid of all the Varnish before staining, and I still had the "7 layers" to go...

                niki

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