Really Simple Outfeed Table for BT3

[cwsmith]

Okay, I've been wanting an outfeed table for my beloved BT31001. I've been using a roller stand for those long rip cuts, but for those shorter rips, I've tired of them dropping to the floor.

So, I looked at several other posts and some great ideas and nice craftsmanship, but I didn't want a hinge, something so big it would get in the way of portability for my little basement shop. I've got the BT mounted on a Herc-U-Lift and I really need to keep things quickly moveable and tucked out of the way as much as possible when not in use.

Last year we dumped an old refrigerator and for whatever "packrat" reasoning I had at that moment, I tucked the steel shelves aside.

Well, I got to thinking about my outfeed table needs a couple of days ago and remembered the those shelves. So, here is something pretty simple I thought, as it's ready made and all I need is some method of attaching it to the rails. My first thought was for some hinge mechanism, but then I didn't want to have this not-to-pretty thing hanging back there.

What I came up with is a simple UHMW block from some scraps that I had purchased from L-V. Four pieces altogether, screwed together and mounted via a single bolt each to the small T-track area on the back of the rail.

The front decorative lip of the steel shelf, hooks over the mount and the rear is held up with a very simple wood support which is fabricated from so cut-off scrap. The top and bottom of the wood support is notched to fit the rack and the lower cross support on the BT. To keep every thing secure, I simply cut two small blocks which get tucked in between the rear of the saw table edge and the front edge of the shelf. It's not going anywhere and it strong enough to handle anything I'm going to rip on the BT.



Bottom line is it works, didn't take much effort and the price was right. What do you guys think?

CWS

[pelligrini]

Pretty cool. Having an outfeed table sure is nice. I used roller stands and rigid flip tops for quite a while.

I did a similar rail bracket for my knock down outfeed table on my 21829. The only thing you might watch out for with the open metal rack is when doing thin rips. A thin piece might hang down in between and catch on the crossmember. Probably not likely, but still a possibility.

[chopnhack]

Very good repurposing ;-)

[Bill in Buena Park]

That's a great solution - and you won't need to clean off any sawdust.

[toolguy1000]

very nice. any chance for some larger pics so the details can be seen more clearly making copying easier?

[cabinetman]

very nice. any chance for some larger pics so the details can be seen more clearly making copying easier?

+1. Larger pics for older eyes.

.

[Black wallnut]

Good idea!

[cwsmith]

Sorry about the picture size, that's been challenging for me. I keep these on "Photobucket", and the link gives me two choice... full size or a "thumb"... for four pictures, I thought the "thumb" might be better, and I was thinking one could just click on it and it would enlarge. Apparently NOT so.

In any case, here are the pictures at a larger size:

This first one is from the front of the BT, note that I have the SMT mounted in reverse for storage (and in my exuberance to take the picture, I didn't notice it), so normally the outfeed can be slid more to the left if required. I generally don't do crosscuts on the BT, preferring my RAS.



This is taken at the back, showing the support legs. There's about an 1-1/2", or so, gap between the edge of the out-feed shelf and the back edge of the table top. Notice I've got two small "gray" wood blocks that keep the out-feed table from shifting forward. These are easily moved should it be necessary to re-position the fence. The gap allows the fence to move without interference from the out-feed.

It looks flimsy, but really isn't. I can still hook up to the shop vac easily. And when not in use, the shelf and the wood support just lift off and are hung on the wall. The support blocks stay on the rail, but can be easily removed or just slid out of the way as necessary.




This picture just shows the support resting against the horizontal leg brace. It's notched to fit properly and the top of the support is also fitted to the shelf's rod diameter. If necessary to hold this in position more firmly. I've run several pieces across it and moved the saw around and it is seems quite secure. If it proves necessary, I figure I can secure it at the top and bottom with either Velcro straps or elastic bands.



This is one of the two rail "hangers" that hold the outfeed table. Made from some scrap UHMW, the smaller block is simply bolted to the larger one, which is tapped and threaded. The assembly is held to the rail with one hex bolt that fits the slot. I used a square nut because it is easier to grasp and loosen in order to slide along the rail. To keep the blocks vertical, I have two holes on either side of the bolt, in which I have press-fitted two plastic "wall inserts" (anchors). Their "heads" fit the track.



The only "layout" that it took was making sure the blocks were mounted so the outfeed was just slightly below the saw table top. If anyone would like, I can provide dimensions for this and a sketch, but it is dependent on the "thickness" of the shelf of course.

Thanks for the comments,

CWS

[rabmaxx]

Feed/support table

Thanks for taking the time for your post. I like your design, I might hang out at the dump looking for an orphaned fridge.

At one time I had that huge monstrosity that clamping to the table made one fear it would topple over. Once connected it worked fine but it sure filled the garage.

I am attempting to have a free standing unit on casters that can be used front, back or especially with large plywood pieces, on the side.

I am not certain about the dowel hook-up, such as metal sleeves through the side rails, lag bolts or smooth surface, so as not to chew up the wood.

I feel if it made sense it was already done but no one has accused me of being sensible.


Rabmaxx

[cwsmith]

Thanks for the comments.

This was a very simple project, using scrap and keeping in mind that all I wanted was a "tray" that would keep most of the short stuff that is ripped from falling to the floor. All the long rips require a roller stand or two, if I wish to use one to support the infeed too.

As it exists now, it is easy to install and easy to remove and I keep the BT3 tucked into a corner of the shop when not in use.

Thanks again,

CWS