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Miter on table saw or miter saw?

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  • #16
    Jim -

    Your post prompted me start a new thread about making a sled for a BT3 type saw. Lee Styron responded with a good/simple sled.

    re: your SMT problems. I rarely need to tweek the adjustment of my rip fence or SMT. Perhaps the plastic guides under your SMT are worn or loose. Or it may not be sliding parallel to the blade.

    There are a lot of good ways to tune up BT3 saws. Here is my "No Measure" method.

    Here is a good visual of the "five-cut" method to set the miter fence 90-deg to the blade.

    - Lonnie
    OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all


    • #17
      Thanks Lonie,

      I store the saw in a corner in my garage. When I am done using it I remove the SMT and it hangs on the wall. When I re-install it when I am going to use it seems to be when I have the possibility of having alignment issues.

      The sled that Lee put together looks interesting.



      • #18
        I gave up on the SMT some time ago and use an Osborne gauge in a home made accessory table slot (fastens to both rails and stays adjusted) to do miters in small stock on the BT3100. More typically I use a dual bevel 12 inch CMT I got for about $150 rebuilt (Hitachi). I generally don't miter on my old Ryobi radial arm but I have.

        Rule of thumb is long heavy stuff move the saw. Short lighter stuff move the wood.

        In both cases, I set stops so I can cut to consistent length. And I have a shoot board to trim if I need to.



        • #19
          Not to hijack the thread too terribly, but for those who have added miter slots to use sleds, how did you attach them to the saw? A kit, or something else? Looking for a shop solution if at all possible.
          I have a little blog about my shop


          • #20
            When you go on a trip and you want to take one tool with you - this tool is usually something like swiss army knife. But a professional mechanic/carpenter going on a job will bring a tool box with him because he knows that swiss army knife alone will not get the job done.
            There are several common types of large powered saws: table saw, miter saw, band saw, panel saw, RAS. In this line-up table saw is like a swiss army knife. With table saw you can make practically every type of cut (except curved cut) but for every type of cut there is another saw that can do it better. Table saw is the most universal tool and if you can only afford one saw - you start with the table saw. Because of this most wooworking shops begin with table saws. But as you add tools - Miter saw becomes your first choice for crosscut/bevel cut/miter and compound cut. Band saw becomes a favorite for rip cuts and curved cuts. If you deal a lot with sheet goods - you will need a panel saw or you will need to make some additions to your table saw like excalibur sliding table (which costs more that many table saws). So in a well equipped professional shop table saw typically exists but sits in a corner and sees less use than other types of saws. I have a 12" dual-bevel CMS (non-slider Craftsman) with lazer and almost all cross/miter/bevel/compound cuts are done on it. It does have a decent (but inexpensive) 100 tooth 12" blade on it. The original stock blade for that CMS (around 40 teeth) I put on when I use this saw for construction projects and need to cut some 2xX lumber. I do not have a panel saw and my shop is in the basement with narrow curved staicase leading to it. I cannot get full size plywood sheet down to the basement. So when I buy sheet goods I always try to make the first cut in the store (or outside with straight edge and circular saw) to split a full sheet into 2 pieces 24x96). This I can get downstairs and I have made a crosscutting sled for my BT3100 that can crosscut panels 24 inches wide. I have full size extension rails installed on my BT, so I have over 60" capacity to the right of the blade. This allows me to handle any length plywood panels.
            I may also add that my BT3100 with full length extension is the largest surface in my shop. It does not see enough use as a table saw but it is used a lot for other purposes. Router table is installed in the same mobile base and I also added some light clamping ability to the same surface so it is used like a light-duty workbench. I would not use this surface to chop mortices but I use it regularly for wood burning or carving.
            Alex V


            • #21
              My miter gauge slots are in small extension tables on either side of the blade. I attach all my extension tables by clamping to the inside slots of the rails. I put flat stock into the slot and put female threads in the flat stock. Bolts (or knobs with studs) then go through a vertical piece on the outside of the extension tables into the flat stock. When you tighten the bolt, it clamps the extension table to the rail. Adjustments can be made by losening the bolt, shifting the table slightly, and re-tightening the bolt.



              • #22
                I'd love to see some pics next time you're out there, if you don't mind. Having trouble visualizing the flat stock in the rail.
                I have a little blog about my shop


                • #23
                  I know that it is just ME, but I simply have a problem crosscutting anything beyond a foot or two on my BT. I get the SMT properly aligned and all, but there just seems to be a problem with my technique or something, so I just "don't go there". Ripping, I'm happy as a clam.

                  My Ridgid CMS does miters very well and with a 50-tooth blade it's a delight. I use the Ryobi CMS stand, so between that and the CMS I've got portability too.

                  BUT, when it comes to "bevel" cross-cuts that CMS is very touchy indeed. There seems to be a lot of complaints about that and it's a combination of speed, blade-flex, and just CMS design I think.

                  I am however quite fortunate in that I have a radial arm saw and it is perfect for miters, bevels, and compound angle cuts on almost any length of stock. With my fence stop setup, I can consistantly get absolute identical length cuts of any angle and it is therefore my preferred tool for such challenges.

                  Think it Through Before You Do!


                  • #24
                    Alittle more please!

                    That looks fine to Me! We some times get so engaged in redoing the whole set-up, and forget about We know to work well. It usually takes less time, and works as well,or better. Works good for Me if all I need is better pick-up, or something like that
                    I have Hope, and I am Thankfull! Consider WhoWhoGreated it ALL