More Rip fence problems

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  • kaydee
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2006
    • 33
    • N. California
    • BT3000

    More Rip fence problems

    Hi Gurus,

    With the help of the forum, I fixed the bent clamper (#23) and also replaced plastic plate (#27). But still the rip fence has some issues.

    In the open position, the lip of the rear Clamper-B is close to the rear rail, as can be seen in this picture.

    When I push down the rip fence handle to lock it down, I can get the handle to the 2'o clock position and it is quite stiff at this point. However, as you can see in the picture, the lip of the rear Clamper-B is just touching the lip of the rear fence. The clamper is NOT fully locking into the rear fence channels, as one would expect. I have also attached the underside picture of the fence handle. I also tried to first pull the the rear clamper into the rear rail lip and then tried to align the front rail with the fence but that put the front of the fence totally out of the rails and I couldn't bring the fence to align with the rails.

    What could be going wrong here?
    Attached Files
  • Black wallnut
    cycling to health
    • Jan 2003
    • 4715
    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
    • BT3k 1999

    #2
    You may need to compress the fence front to back, but first back out the rear clamper adjuster screw.
    Donate to my Tour de Cure


    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

    Head servant of the forum

    ©

    Comment

    • kaydee
      Forum Newbie
      • Feb 2006
      • 33
      • N. California
      • BT3000

      #3
      Black Wallnut,

      How do I "compress" fence back to front? I don't know of any way to do that. Appreciate some additional info.

      -kd

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        Before you adjust the length of the fence, check that your rails are parallel. Does the same gap occur across the length of the rails?

        I think the fence length can be slightly sdjusted by loosening the two alignment screws on the top near the handle. You will have to realign the fence. Hopefully Mark or someone else will confirm.
        Erik

        Comment

        • Black wallnut
          cycling to health
          • Jan 2003
          • 4715
          • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
          • BT3k 1999

          #5
          Yes, exactly as Erik stated. Back the adjustment screw nearly all the way out, with the fence removed from the saw use a clamp to apply slight pressure front to back, loosen the two screws on top that attach the fence body to the front block. There is a spring on the rod that actuates the rear clamper that may sometimes cause the fence body to rest against the front of the screws. The amount you can gain is small but it may be enough.

          Quite a few years ago there were several threads dealing with advanced fence tweaking but it seems they have dropped off the server. The links that I was able to find for them are dead. There are a number of possible things that could be causing your problem, try the easy stuff first.
          1. Check and ensure that the front and rear rails are set correctly and locked.
          2. Make sure the rear clamper moves freely.
          3. Make sure the dowell pin and rear roller are in place.
          4. Make sure the front block "slides" are adjusted so that they do not prevent the forward movement of the front block upon the lowering of the locking handle.
          5. Make sure "clamper-A" is not bent.
          6. Make sure the "roller holder" is not broken where the roll pin passes through.
          Let us know if this helps or if you need more info.
          Donate to my Tour de Cure


          marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

          Head servant of the forum

          ©

          Comment

          • kaydee
            Forum Newbie
            • Feb 2006
            • 33
            • N. California
            • BT3000

            #6
            Thanks everyone. I will try all the suggested steps.

            On a related note, how do I remove the "Roll pin" (#4) and the "Dowel pin" (#8). The roll pin is a bit rusted and sticky and I might as well replace it. I looked in the manual but couldn't find any instructions.

            -k

            Comment

            • Black wallnut
              cycling to health
              • Jan 2003
              • 4715
              • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
              • BT3k 1999

              #7
              You will need to support the side of the roller holder on a block of wood with a hole uder the rollpin and use a "roll pin punch" to drift it out.
              Donate to my Tour de Cure


              marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

              Head servant of the forum

              ©

              Comment

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