Aftermarket rip fence?

[jstevens]

Assuming everything is working properly; when you go to lock the fence are you pulling it towards you slightly? I found that the fence doesn't shift if im pulling on the handle with some light pressure.

D'oh!

D'OH!!!

I just ran down to the basement and tried it--it's really as simple as that. Thanks, I wish I'd asked about this seven years ago.

Now that I've proven I'm the dumbest one on the forum, on to my next question. Thank you.

Regards,

John

[pelligrini]

You're welcome, glad it was a simple fix/procedure.

I wouldn't agree about being the dumbest. That would be the one who never asks the question. I was frustrated for quite a while too, even disassembled the fence a few times. When I was putting it back together the last time I finally realized how it was working.

[Cochese]

I'll have to try that as well. I guess I'd be concerned about not having the measurement line up.

I say that, when my measurement tape has been off by 3/16" for about three months.

[JSUPreston]

Glad you found the answer. In the future, if you would like to swap to something like a Biesemeyer fence, you might want to look at the sawzilla table (http://home.pacbell.net/wkenddad/). I considered this when I had the BT3100. However, I decided that if I wanted to use a Bies style fence, it would be cheaper, quicker and easier if I just bought another saw. That being said, I do like the sawzilla stand.

[pelligrini]

I should have figured the fence thing out earlier based on my experience with T-squares & triangles from my pre-Mayline and pre-CAD days. A t-square won't be square to the registration edge without a little pressure.

I use the tape on my rails for most setups too. With pulling on the fence handle, I have found it to be extremely accurate. I hardly never move my rails now. With my half rail extensions I have found no need to.