ZCIP - which material?

[Cochese]

I really need to make a few before I can play with my dado set. I have the following options:

-1/2" white birch ply
-Rockler Universal Kit (1/2" thick, phenolic top)
-UHMW
-other

#1 is the cheapest, because I have a bit.
#2 is about $30
#3 is about $24, but it's 3/8" or 3/4"
#4 I was leaning toward laminate flooring. But I haven't found any single pieces to buy.

Thoughts? I did a search, but didn't see any relevant results on the first couple of pages.

[Stytooner]

This is kind of a loaded question. Those all work well. Many other types of materials work great too. It depends on the saw just as much because of the design of the throat area. Some require very little material removal in which case, phenolic might be optimal, but close seconds are broad in variety.

The ZCTP's I make for the BT's are made of HDPE. This works great because it is strong and stable while being soft enough to machine easily. I would think of the materials you have listed, the next best types would be the UHMW, then the ply, then lastly the phenlic. The reverse would be true on something like a Unisaw.

[cabinetman]

I like to make them from BB plywood and cover with mica (high pressure plastic laminate). Some saws (like Unisaws), 1/2" fits well. Small adjustment screws installed in the same place as the factory insert enable it to be adjusted.
.

[pelligrini]

Being that CocheseUGA just got a 21829 I don't think the plywoods would be a good option because of the thin lips needed.

Stytooner's plates start at $15, and you don't have to do any machining.
http://www.leestyron.com/1zctp.php

I made my last run out of some reclaimed maple flooring strips. They were prefinished too, so I just left that on them.

[Cochese]

I saw the plates, but for some reason didn't give much thought to them. After figuring out I could get them for $10.50 per plate if I bought 4, I just ordered from him. Seemed like the smart thing to do.

I may not be able to cut what I want to for awhile until I get them, but at least I can turn my attention to other things.

Like figuring out an outfeed table that will work on my hill.

[pelligrini]

I usually use my Ryobi dado plate when using my old craftsman stack. I haven't really bothered making ZCTPs for the different dado widths. As it'll be different quite often.

Like figuring out an outfeed table that will work on my hill.

Might check out the one I did from a hollow core door for some ideas. The area where I usually put my saw isn't exactly level. The pad the wheels and leg goes on is flat, but slightly sloped. I had to extend the feet on the leg all the way to get the table mostly level. My outfeed legs and extension legs are fully adjustable to deal with the uneven ground.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=41179

[gsmittle]

I made my last batch from 1/8" tempered Masonite, mainly because it was free. I did have to rabbet all four sides, but once I cut the Maso to size, I was able to rabbet them on the router table fairly quickly. Once the depth is dialed in, it doesn't take long to process eight or ten.

g.

[Norm in Fujino]

I've used cast acrylic for mine; Lexan is also a possible choice.

[cwsmith]

I used some scrap fiberglass wall covering, the kind you use in labs, commercial bathrooms, etc. It's thin, easy to cut and drill, and fairly stiff. It required shimming, because it's thinner than the 1/8" stock I would have liked.

While certainly not ideal, but I found it very useable and it certainly required no further expense, except the $1.40 for the extra screws.

I used a piece of cardstock pressed into position to positively locate the screw holes. First drill was right on, and I made some extra's.

CWS

[conwaygolfer]

I made mine from 3/4 solid oak. Pretty easy after a little figuring.

Conwaygolfer

[Pappy]

I have used phenolic, 1/4" polycarbonate, and corian. The corian is ok for dado plates but a bit fragile. The polycarbonite works best for general use and isn't that expensive if you have a plastic supplier in the area. I go to Regal Plastics in Austin and raid the cut off boxes. The last time I went it was $2.00 a pound.

[charliex]

[QUOTE=pelligrini;465407]Being that CocheseUGA just got a 21829 I don't think the plywoods would be a good option because of the thin lips needed.

Thin lips not needed for the throat plates on BT3's or look-a-likes. I make a plain 3/8 thick solid oak rectangle that fits in the opening. The small gaps around the edges are inconsequential. I cut a starter slot for the blade and RK and drill mounting holes before installing. I make a bunch production style, so I'll have them handy. For the dado set and odd (not 45) angle settings I use the supplied TP's, too many widths and angles to deal with.

[JimD]

I am still using up scarps of pre-finished laminated oak flooring from when I finished my basement. It is about 3/8 thick which works well for the center part. I dado the edges and the resulting thickness is admittedly thin but that has not caused any problem other than occasionally it breaks. I also made a few by ripping down a 2x4 scrap just to prove the BT3100 would do it. I use these for angled cuts too, I have a few made up just for this. I "recycle" ZCTPs initially used for thin kerf blades to standard kerf and then to dado use sometimes - or angled cut use (when they will not be really zero clearance but work OK).

Jim

[LinuxRandal]

This is kind of a loaded question. Those all work well. Many other types of materials work great too. It depends on the saw just as much because of the design of the throat area. Some require very little material removal in which case, phenolic might be optimal, but close seconds are broad in variety.

The ZCTP's I make for the BT's are made of HDPE. This works great because it is strong and stable while being soft enough to machine easily. I would think of the materials you have listed, the next best types would be the UHMW, then the ply, then lastly the phenlic. The reverse would be true on something like a Unisaw.

Can you tell us what characteristics, are different between HDPE and UHMW, that make you choose one over the other?

Is there a slickness difference between the two? (wondering if it is securing UHMW issue)

[Cochese]

Can you tell us what characteristics, are different between HDPE and UHMW, that make you choose one over the other?

Is there a slickness difference between the two? (wondering if it is securing UHMW issue)

From using UHMW before, and receiving Lee's plates yesterday (thanks Lee), I'd say that HDPE is vastly more rigid than UHMW, and could see how it would hold up much better and not flex or sag in the table.

At least that's my experience.