How close to perfect does the SMT base have to be

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  • sailor55330
    Established Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 494

    How close to perfect does the SMT base have to be

    I have been trying to align my SMT base now for nearly a week. I have tried multiple methods and so far, I have been unable to acheive the standards that are being posted here in the forums. The process is simple and I have followed it to the letter many many times. I have come to the conclusion that either I have one of the few that was built out of spec or over time, the saw has become less accurate due to unknown reasons (read previous use and ownership).

    Using a dial gauge, the closest I am able to align the base is approximately 35/1000 or .035, which in terms of fractions of an inch is just over 1/32. I have even taken the miter table itself off and and have been just working with the SMT base alone at this point.

    I guess I have finally realized that on a used saw, it may never be perfect. My question to the group is this: how big of an issue is having the SMT base out of of parallel by 1/32"? Based on some of the things I have read, the standard opinion is anything less than zero tolerance is unacceptable.

    Thank you
  • Black wallnut
    cycling to health
    • Jan 2003
    • 4715
    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
    • BT3k 1999

    #2
    It depends a whole lot on how much precision you need and how big your workpieces are. One other thing you might check is that the stand is SQUARE and LEVEL.

    If you are planning to make square frames with mitered corners you will not be pleased.
    Donate to my Tour de Cure


    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

    Head servant of the forum

    ©

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    • leehljp
      Just me
      • Dec 2002
      • 8448
      • Tunica, MS
      • BT3000/3100

      #3
      Mark brought up a good point that I forgot about - level. Not having the saw on a level floor, or level feet will distort the table enough to keep it from precise alignment.

      I may be wrong but I thought I remember you mentioning that you had it to 5/1000th at one point. That is 1/200 of an inch which is extremely good for wood. Humidity changes causes more movement in wood than that.

      I would not settle for anything less than 1/64 for furniture making. 1/100 is my goal.

      I am making a set of book cases - and two 28 inch facing boards that I cut 5 weeks ago are still dead on. But with the cold dry weather we have had for 5 weeks, the space for the two boards that was a perfect snug fit, is now is about 1/64 wider - which is common with wood movement.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

      Comment

      • sailor55330
        Established Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 494

        #4
        I'll have to double check the saw for square and level. I did check it when I brought it home and the stand was less than 1/8 of an inch out. It was level on the floor, but I could have bumped it. Worth looking at I guess

        Comment

        • footprintsinconc
          Veteran Member
          • Nov 2006
          • 1759
          • Roseville (Sacramento), CA
          • BT3100

          #5
          i am about to go through the same thing in a few weeks. my smt is off and i cant put up with it anymore. i need more accuracy for the things i am to build in the near future.

          i am currently reading up on the whole smt table fine tuning, but i have a question reading this post: why does the table need to be level?

          i mean, as long as the table is tilted, the blade tilts with it and so does the top. so as long as the smt is in place with the ts top, there should be no issue. could you explain why it needs to be level in more detail?

          thanks
          _________________________
          omar

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          • Black wallnut
            cycling to health
            • Jan 2003
            • 4715
            • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
            • BT3k 1999

            #6
            The STAND needs to be square and level so as to not place any bind on the saw's body panels. I'm not sure I can explain it but it has been proven to be a problem for some. Once they squre and level their base and reattach the saw all thier alignment probles go away.
            Donate to my Tour de Cure


            marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

            Head servant of the forum

            ©

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