Blade is not going up all the way ...

[wackii]

Hi all,

I've just purchased the BT3000. The saw is in a pretty good shape I would say. This is my first table saw so I don't know much about it. I've done some research on how to clean it. I've also fine tune it... the blade is perpendicular to the table... rip fence is parallel to the blade... and so on... One thing I found out is that my blade can't go straight up. It went up to about 2.5" and seemed to stuck there. I can't roll it up anymore and don't really want to force it. I figure I should ask the pros here. I will take a picture or two tomorrow.

I'm excited to get this table saw. It's my first table saw and I'm a few project line up for me already

Thanks all.

Al,

[Uncle Cracker]

Send a PM to Loring ("Lchien") and ask him to send you his BT FAQ. This problem could be with the gearing in the elevation crank, or you could have the dreaded shim problem. It could also be a simple cleaning/lubrication issue (or just a piece of scrap wood where it doesn't belong). These are all described in detail in the FAQ.

[crokett]

I would start with the easy fix of pulling the side panels off and blowing/vaccuming out the blade elevation crank and waxing it with candle wax. Also check the angle of the splitter behind the blade. If it is leaning too far it may cause this problem, although generally it interferes with lowering the blade and not raising it. If neither of those work it is probably the shim issue. For tear down instructions and how to inspect the shims, here is an article:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=33948

The article covers the shim upgrade, but the tear down procedure is the same.

[pelligrini]

The first two posts cover it pretty well.

Just a couple other points: Are you sure that there is a 10" blade on the saw and there aren't any stabilizers hitting the throat plate?

[wackii]

After pulling the side panels off, it confirms that I have the Shim issue. The shim on the right is sticking up while the left shim is slipping down. What are my options here? Since the shims are there, can I remove the guide holder and hopefully savage the shim? Also, on the lubrication part... what dry lube should I can get HD? I'm about 4 miles away from HD and would like to get the parts there and have it done today. If I need new shims, where locally can I get them? I'm in Los Angeles California area.

I took a few pictures.

Thanks.

Al,

Pelligrini, It came with the original Ryobi blade 10"

[wackii]

Shim part# for replacement?

Question:

It looks like I have to replace the shim. Can someone help me as to what part# to order and the quantity of it? I saw the part list and it said key no 3 and 86 for shim. Are they the same? So do I need one of each? Part# for Key# 3 is 969599001 and for key#86 is 969600001.

Thanks.

Al,

[crokett]

Before you order the shims, let me check tonight and see if I still have an extra pair. After having the shim problem I did the shim upgrade to the BT3100 style shims that don't have this problem so don't need the ones I might have. If I have them I will send them to you next week. If you do end up replacing them, you might consider the upgrade. It costs a little more but avoids the issue you have.

[wackii]

Crokett,

Thank you for the offer. Let me know how much the shipping and the shim is. I will paypal you. Since I have two small L brackets laying around, I will do the shim support. It looks like it will work that way.

Thanks again. Let me know if you still have the shim. Now I need to extract the busted set screws

Al,

[wackii]

problem

I'm having a rough time trying to take out the set screws. Now I got myself with more problem. I broke off the tip of the extractor Anybody has any idea how to take out the extractor tip and the set screws? I manage to broke 2 extractor tips... not a good day... Please help.

Thanks.

Al,

[crokett]

I have the shims. PM me your address and I will mail them next week. Don't worry about the postage.

As for the extractor, the only thing I think you can do is drill out the extractor, then try to back the screw out again with another extractor. When you do try to take the screw out again, I would put the extractor tip in some vise grips, put the tip in the screw and start turning to back it out. As you turn take a hammer and rap gently on the extractor. This should break the screw loose. When I had to replace my shims, I got the screws out by using a hand screw driver and rapping on the end of the handle while I was turning the screwdriver.

[wackii]

Crokett, Thank you so much for the shims and the help. I'll PM right now.

I'm still trying to take out the tip of the extractor. I went to Lowe's this time and get a different extractor that has metal cutting bit on the other end. I tried that on the third set screw but the darn set screw won't even move So now I have 3 busted set screws. Two of the with the tip of the extractor broken off in there This sux badly... Anyone here can recommend me some metal drill bit that I can drill out the extractor's tip?

Thanks.

Al,

I have the shims. PM me your address and I will mail them next week. Don't worry about the postage.

As for the extractor, the only thing I think you can do is drill out the extractor, then try to back the screw out again with another extractor. When you do try to take the screw out again, I would put the extractor tip in some vise grips, put the tip in the screw and start turning to back it out. As you turn take a hammer and rap gently on the extractor. This should break the screw loose. When I had to replace my shims, I got the screws out by using a hand screw driver and rapping on the end of the handle while I was turning the screwdriver.

[crokett]

Well the extractors are very hard metal. They need to be by design. They will be tough to drill. All I gots for them is to get bits rated for metal, start with a small bit to drill a pilot hole and step up in bit sizes until you can drill them out. Another suggestion would be to take all the removeable parts off the saw, take it off the stand and take it to a machine shop or mechanic. They don't have any magic tools but do have experience dealing with this and can also everything out and tap new threads if necessary.

[Uncle Cracker]

I can't add much to what David said. The extractors probably broke off because they are indeed hardened (makes them more brittle). But the fact that they broke off before the set screws came loose gives a clue as to just how tight the screws are in there. Drilling would appear to be the only option left to you at this point, and David's suggestion that you look for a machine shop to help you with that task is a wise one. Your dime-store variety of drill bit ain't gonna cut it this time.

[wackii]

Thanks guys for the help. You guys are right. I've tried to drill out that extractor's tip but don't have any luck. I put in 8 hrs of work and 4 steel bits for nothing. It looks like I might have to take it to the machine shop and I'm wondering how much they will charge me. If it is too much, I'm going to leave it as is. I am able to lift the saw high enough to replace saw blade and also able to lower it all the way down. So for now, I'm good to cut up to 2.5". I'm worn out trying to remove that tip

It looks like I might need to drill the surrounding out in order to remove the extractor tip. I don't know if it's worth it to do all that. I'm kinda throwing in the white flag here The saw still works fine and that's the good thing... for now.

Al,

[crokett]

The problem with leaving as-is is that the shim problem may get worse until the blade doesn't move at all. My experience with things like this is either pay now or pay later and pay later is always more expensive because the later comes when you most need whatever it is you should have done earlier.