finishing red oak

[slieber967]

2 red oak balcony rails; post, balusters and rails from loews. i was thinking poly for finish but would like some suggestions for stain or no stain or something else. thanks

bt content- bt a most excellent home improvement tool

ordered parts from m and d mower to repair previous owners damage
had them in 3 days

thanks to all

kc
slieber967@aol.com

[pelligrini]

I've always liked using a darker stain on red oak to make the grain really pop out. Some of the best results I have gotten was to sand down to a really fine grit and flood on some stain and quickly wipe it off. The fine sanding will help to keep the smoother grain from getting much stain penetration. Mabe doing a second application of stain if the first didn't penetrate very much. Be sure to let the stain fully dry before putting the finish on. The deep oak pores can really soak up the stain. While drying I'll wipe it down on occaision to get some of the stain that seeps from the deep pores off.

[steve-norrell]

I have had good luck with this product . . .

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Bison-Wax.aspx

We used two or three coats of the "medium oak" tinted wax to fill the grain, then applied two coats of clear furniture paste wax.

Here's a picture . . .

Good luck, Steve

[JR]

We used two or three coats of the "medium oak" tinted wax to fill the grain, then applied two coats of clear furniture paste wax.

That's a really nice piece, Steve.

So you finished with just the two waxes? No other stains or poly?

JR

[docrowan]

I like Minwax's Golden Oak stain. Heavy coat, let soak for a while, then wipe off and let dry at least a day in the summer and at least a couple of days in the winter.

[cabinetman]

Red oak looks good with no stain or with stain. I don't sand too smooth, as even though it's a porous wood, it will take stain unevenly if sanded too smoothly.

For finishes, it will take stains and film finishes very nicely. I would suggest to test out on some samples to see what you like. Allow each application of finish to cure. Take your samples to whatever the final finish will be, as the color will change when applying a finish over stain.
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[steve-norrell]

So you finished with just the two waxes? No other stains or poly?

JR

Yes, two coats of the Black Buffalo tinted wax and two or three coats of Johnson's Paste wax. We found it important to allow each coat of the Buffalo wax to dry for at least one-half hour, preferably longer. Also, the Johnson's wax should be applied lightly, without any vigorous rubbing -- just coat the piece and allow to set, as above, before buffing,

I should add that I just finished the piece a couple of months ago so I don't have any feel for how durable the wax coats are.

Regards, Steve

[SARGE..g-47]

Yes, two coats of the Black Buffalo tinted wax and two or three coats of Johnson's Paste wax. We found it important to allow each coat of the Buffalo wax to dry for at least one-half hour, preferably longer. Also, the Johnson's wax should be applied lightly, without any vigorous rubbing -- just coat the piece and allow to set, as above, before buffing,

I should add that I just finished the piece a couple of months ago so I don't have any feel for how durable the wax coats are.

Regards, Steve

I can't say how it will hold on your piece Steve, as it is a table that may or may not be subjected to traffic? But.. I used strickly a coat of Watco on a bed I made two years ago and then applied two coats of Johnson's after a week of cure time. Of course the bed frame.. rails.. etc. doesn't get touched much really but... it has held very well with no need for a new coat of wax yet...

BTW... I also use the Liberon Black Bison Wax in medium oak on A & C pieces after stain and finish.. Good stuff and probably the best wax formula I have run into in going 38 years. The Liberon 0000 steel wool is also the best steel wool I have used. I use it to apply the Black Bison wax which gets wax on and takes the sheen down to satin in one shot..

[drillman88]

I've finished red oak many ways depending on the look I'm after and how much time I have. I put up oak chair rail at my previous home and stained it golden oak with a oil poly top coat and it turned out nice. I also like golden pecan it varies the color from pinkish tones to brown depending on the piece.
I also like to thin poly and wipe on with no stain, it really warms the grain nicely. I have also thinned blo and wiped that on and finished with waterborne poly, of course you let the blo dry a couple of days before finishing.
It really all depends on the look you want.

[cabinetman]

I should add that I just finished the piece a couple of months ago so I don't have any feel for how durable the wax coats are.

Regards, Steve

Waxed finishes offer little to no protection or durability, and cannot compare to an oil base finish (like varnish or polyurethane), lacquer, or waterbase polyurethane. Waxes will dry out and appear differently (mottled). Waxes will preclude using any subsequent film finish.
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[steve-norrell]

Waxed finishes offer little to no protection or durability, and cannot compare to an oil base finish (like varnish or polyurethane), lacquer, or waterbase polyurethane. Waxes will dry out and appear differently (mottled). Waxes will preclude using any subsequent film finish.
.

Yep, I agree, C'man, and would not have considered the 'wax only' finish if the table were to get a lot of traffic. But the table will not receive anything near heavy traffic -- it is used mainly as a handy table to put things on and is almost never exposed to moisture (other than in the air) and sliding things across the surface. If it does get scratched or rubbed, then, as Sarge noted, it can be touched up with wax.

Thanks to all for the comments. Regards, Steve