Deep into BT3000 Motor Replacement

[craftwerker]

I'm past wondering if the motor is any good. It sparks like mad and know it needs to be replaced. Already ordered a new one (my options are limited because of space constraints and my absolute satisfaction with the BT3000 after years of use). Had the opportunity to replace shims about 2 years ago and MANY THANKS for the excellent guides in this forum. The pics were priceless and made the job less threatening - even easy!

OK, so now I've stripped down the saw - just like for shim replacement - and I managed to remove the belts easily with a new technique that I'll share when I confirm that it works for reinstalls as well.

My problem: I still can't remove the motor assembly from the motor bracket. And Yes, I did remove the four corner screws from the motor housing that seems to hold it to the motor bracket (including the one that attaches the strain relief for the power cord). The best movement I can get is a rotation of the motor about 20 degrees clockwise and counterclockwise.

One likely option is that I need to get more aggressive in pulling the motor from the bracket. Might it be just a tight fit? I see no opportunities to undo anything mechanical to liberate the motor.

I read in a earlier post that you need to disassemble the two mating elevation gears to remove the bracket. I don't think that should be necessary because the motor simply "rides" on/in the bracket - I think. Even if I did remove the bracket from the saw, I still don't understand how that will help to remove the motor from the bracket.

Any ideas/feedback would be most appreciated.

When I'm all done with this exercise, I'll try to post some pics to support the activities beyond the "shim replacement" stage.

[mpc]

The motor has a front bearing that is a somewhat tight fit into the moving bracket. There is a small plate that holds the bearing, if I remember correctly it has two screws. The screws enter from the side opposite the motor, go through the bracket, and thread into the plate that is close to the motor. The bearing is "trapped" between the bracket and this little circular-ish plate. The bearing is press-fit onto the motor "arbor" shaft too; it's generally not really tight though.

The parts have to be pulled perfectly straight to separate; if the motor+bearing get cocked at all in the bracket it'll jam tight. Same for re-assembly. A bit of heat on the bracket, to thermally expand it, might loosen it a bit. It's a common trick for stuck fasteners on cars; it'll work on aluminum too as long as you don't overdo it. A rag soaked in boiling water maybe? Tapping the motor arbor with a soft mallet works too.

mike c.

[cgallery]

A bit of heat on the bracket, to thermally expand it, might loosen it a bit. It's a common trick for stuck fasteners on cars; it'll work on aluminum too as long as you don't overdo it. A rag soaked in boiling water maybe? Tapping the motor arbor with a soft mallet works too.

mike c.

A 60 to 100-watt light bulb is also a good way to gently heat metal.

[conwaygolfer]

Motor Removal

The elevation gears you are referring to, had to come out before I could remove my motor last year. I used a punch to knock out the small metal pin at the base of the gear. It then came out and I was able to also remove the motor. Pain in the butt, but it is doable.

Hope this helps,
Conwaygolfer

[craftwerker]

First, many thanks for the prompt and well thought out replies. It's refreshing to find a forum on the web where the participants are truly professional in their knowledge and behavior. It speaks well of the people committed to this tool (the BT3X00).

I think the two screws and the collar you are referring to are situated around the blade arbor shaft. The motor shaft has no such arrangement. There is absolutely nothing visible. I did notice, however, that the end of the motor shaft has two flat sides, such that a wrench could be fitted to it. But, in the absence of any other visible grip point on the shaft, it would serve no useful purpose.

I'm posting some pictures that may help a bit. #8462 shows the screws around the blade arbor.


The ongoing theory is that it is simply a tight fit. Unfortunately, with the unit disassembled to this point, there is no way to stabilize the motor bracket while applying force to the shaft. The bracket is simply dangling from the elevation screw. Perhaps that is why Conwaygolfer had to remove the bracket (so he could immobilize the bracket to apply force to the motor shaft)???

I thought I had a chance to stabilize the motor bracket by remounting the guide holder to the motor bracket without installing the drive belts. Unfortunately, the motor shaft is completely hidden by the guide holder. So, no luck there!

You can see the BT3000 schematic and parts list on the Ryobi web site. Unfortunately, it is deep within their site in a database and a direct link will not work. In a subsequent post I provide the roadmap for getting there.

There is one more possibility that just hit me. Is it possible that what I am calling the motor bracket is actually part of the motor? This would mean that the the blade arbor would come along within the motor case. Sounds like overkill. But see the motor assembly (#1 on the drawing). I can't find the uncolored "motor bracket" (as I call it) anywhere in the parts listing. Maybe it is uncolored because it is aluminum, and the motor housing is, indeed, black! This could be a possibility. I'm paying Ryobi / Gardner Inc. about $270 for the part. It's a lot of bucks, but I really like this saw and I just want it back in good order..... quick.


The motor isn't due in until Friday so I still have a few days to dialog and experiment. Keep the ideas coming!

[craftwerker]

Link to Pictures http://www.flickr.com/photos/40759498@N08/

[leehljp]

Very good pictures! Stay around and join in the fun here. I know that you could help others when they have this problem.

[craftwerker]

Sorry, but the link doesn't work directly. I just found this out by trying to open it from this forum. You have to go to ryobi.com and then work your way through the site to get to the parts catalog.

Procedure for US residents:
Go to ryobi.com
In the red box: click on Ryobi Brand Power Tools and Outdoor Products
then Power Tools in the grey horizontal menu ribbon
then - to the lower right of the lead photo - Find Parts
then Go to the Ryobi Power Tools Parts Store
then Repair Parts Catalog
then agree to the terms
then enter motor in Description box and BT3000 in Model Name box
then click on Search
then - in the left panel - click on Motor Assembly
then - in the right panel - BT3000 10" Table Saw is displayed. Click on it.
then the parts diagram will open in a separate window.

You can enlarge the diagram several factors using the + icon repeatedly at the top and navigate freely.

So simple, isn't it?

[craftwerker]

One mystery is solved. Received the new motor assembly today. They delivered virtually everything except the belts and the saw blade. Everything attached to the elevation screw comes as one package -the motor encased in its black housing, the aluminum bracket that it is attached to AND the saw blade arbor and bearings. It's a complete replacement (for $270 including $22 ground Fedex transportation)! On the motor end, they go so far as to include the power wire up to and including the plug that you insert into the 110 v outlet on the side panel of the saw.

Interesting, the only thing that appear to be missing is the pair of screws that hold the retainer ring on the saw blade arbor - the ones mentioned in an earlier post and that are visible in the photographs. Even the retainer ring is included. The blade arbor comes detached from the motor bracket. It looks like you just have to force the bearings into the aluminum bracket and the setup is complete (once you recover the retaining screws from the old arbor and reinstall on the new one)

This post is after a quick visual inspection. I'll post photos of how the parts came right out of the box tomorrow. It looks like my next steps (after mounting the blade arbor) are to dismount the old motor bracket from the elevation screw and mount the new one onto the elevation screw. Next I need to reinstall the elevation screw and re-mesh the related gears. Then I can begin the more common reassembly process with the shims, etc. The power cord also needs to be routed through the switch casing (simply a mechanical job - no electrical work required).

Now I can understand why Conwaygolfer had to knock out the gears from the elevation mechanism to free up the elevation screw rod and dismount the motor assembly. I missed the fact the the replacement part is the WHOLE motor unit.

I'll provide more feedback as I go through the actual exercise, including more (and better) pics to document the whole process for the next person in line to replace his/her motor.

Any ideas how to ensure perfect alignment of the arbor and the bracket during the press fit exercise? I'm inclined to use my drill press as the arbor "pusher" with my table in precise 90 degree alignment with the axis of the chuck. I don't want to muscle in a misaligned fit with a mallet, and I suspect that just hand and arm pressure will simply be inadequate.

[craftwerker]

As promised. Here are the pics of the new motor - fresh out of the box.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40759498@N08/sets/72157621799682086/

[econn]

New Motor Installation

Where's the rest of your story? I'm in the same position, in love with a 16 year old saw with a dead motor ,and a newbie motor from Gardner sitting on my table. How do I get one out and the other in??

Your pictures and narrative were great but how did the install go?

[Black wallnut]

Don't hold your breath econn waiting for a reply. The OP has not logged in since he left that last reply.