I just replaced my shims - a relatively easy job thanks to the several articles here. Before putting the covers on, I ran everything up and down a few times to check it out. That's when I noticed that the motor did not go all the way up to the top of the machined areas the shims ride on. After a bit of digging around, I found that the top of the elevation screw has a 1/4" bolt, washer, nut, and locknut that set the maximum travel upward (bolt is part 64, washer 107, nuts 66 on BT3000 main parts diagram). Mine was set to the lowest possible height, so the max cutting depth was well under 3.5".
Just guessing how this should be set, I screwed out the bolt a fair ways and ran the motor up until the top of the guide holder hit the bottom of the table. This provided for 3 9/16" cutting depth and still seemed to give clearance for the belts (couldn't see this, but turning by hand I didn't feel them rubbing on the bottom of the table). Then I backed the elevation down about a quarter turn, leaving maybe 1/64" between the guide holder and table and turned height adjusting bolt by hand until it stopped. Finally, backed down the motor so I could get at the locknut and tightened.
Is there an official right way to make this adjustment?
Also, when I put the guide holder back on I used a bit of a twist on the idea of threaded rods - I found a couple each of long 8-32 and 10-24 screws, got the back shims and cover loosely lined up with the 10-24 screws, then used the long 8-32s to pull the bearing back into the cover using the bearing plate as sort of a puller. Finally replaced the long 8-32s with the original ones, then screwed in the 4 that hold the guide holder to the motor. Seemed easier than using the 4 screws to push the bearing in and then trying to line up the 2 smaller screws last. Sound OK to you guys?
Thanks for any advice.
Just guessing how this should be set, I screwed out the bolt a fair ways and ran the motor up until the top of the guide holder hit the bottom of the table. This provided for 3 9/16" cutting depth and still seemed to give clearance for the belts (couldn't see this, but turning by hand I didn't feel them rubbing on the bottom of the table). Then I backed the elevation down about a quarter turn, leaving maybe 1/64" between the guide holder and table and turned height adjusting bolt by hand until it stopped. Finally, backed down the motor so I could get at the locknut and tightened.
Is there an official right way to make this adjustment?
Also, when I put the guide holder back on I used a bit of a twist on the idea of threaded rods - I found a couple each of long 8-32 and 10-24 screws, got the back shims and cover loosely lined up with the 10-24 screws, then used the long 8-32s to pull the bearing back into the cover using the bearing plate as sort of a puller. Finally replaced the long 8-32s with the original ones, then screwed in the 4 that hold the guide holder to the motor. Seemed easier than using the 4 screws to push the bearing in and then trying to line up the 2 smaller screws last. Sound OK to you guys?
Thanks for any advice.
Comment